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guys72Mach1

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guys72Mach1 last won the day on November 30 2014

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About guys72Mach1

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    1972 Mach 1
    1969 Bronco Sport
    1964 Falcon

Location

  • Location
    Eagle, Idaho
  • Region
    Northeast

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  • Sex
    Male

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  1. I have always had good luck with Hooker long tubes and what I'm running on my Cleveland. They tuck tightly and clear everything.
  2. #DontMachMe was chosen for a calendar shoot for our local rock radio station The Eagle. Pretty stoked to not only have the Mach1 selected, but my wife's Bronco as well! They even were able to bribe my wife with a blue tank top to join in for a few pics!
  3. Funny, was just going to post something about this. My 72 Mach 1 gear boxes is going out and getting hard spots, so I've been looking at the options out there. The best performance options based on reviews and comments, looks to be $450+, via powersteering.com. Gotta pay for R/T shipping, then wait 3 weeks to get it back. But, that 12.7:1 steering sounds like the golden ticket. My car is built for protouring, so I'm leaning this way, plus I can use my existing hoses, which now that I put that in writing, they'll prob start leaking! But man, that $5 hundy is a chunk and shipping(and wai
  4. Performer Air Gap manifold makes sure to take up any unused space....thx Edelbrock
  5. I recently dyno'd the Mach and found that my 13" K&N Air Filter with the cast Ford Racing Air cleaner base and lid, resulted in a 20hp loss. Ran it with the air cleaner and without and it picked up 20hp without the filter. I have been searching for a 13" air filter ever since and the closest thing that would fit is a skinny little 12" K&N Filter from Summit. I was shocked to find out that there was such a huge hp loss with the filter on, especially being a K&N, but apparently the air cleaner top so close to the air horn is causing a big restriction. I put a 2" spacer on it, whi
  6. I'd pull out the lock and cylinder(where the key goes in) and inspect the cylinder for proper operation and then also verify that the end portion seats correctly when you put it back in. If that is worn or broken, it can slip and not push/pull the actuating arm when the key is being turned. That would be where I'd start before changing the electrical portion of the ignition switch. Usually if you turn the key and the car doesn't start or stop, the lock and cylinder is not working properly. They tumbler could be stripped and while the key position looks to be in off, it could very well likely
  7. Just take your time. I also moved mine back about 2-3 inches for a little more leg room while driving. +1 on the moved back 2-3 inches. Did the same thing and I am so glad that I did! Nothing like lounging in the back seat while driving the car! Seriously though, the extra couple of clicks made a huge difference in stretching out. Something to consider.
  8. I went with CJ's also. They weren't exact in all of the stamped patterns, but the shape was right on. When it's all said and done, know one will ever know, or even recognize the difference. You can always give it a good whack with a metal hammer and listen to the sound. If it sounds dull, good clue that it needs to be replaced. Old school metal worker habit....
  9. Mine had similar area's of rust and even worse on the passenger side(due to the fresh air intake rotting out). I ended up buying both sides full pans, then cut them up accordingly. I wanted to utilize what ever existing good metal that was there, but definitely wanted to cut out any cancer and area's of suspicion. It was a job, drilling, spot welding, seaming, floating out, sealing, then spraying the sound coating, but well worth the effort. For me, it was better to cut the rear pans in sections and use what I needed, then to use the one piece compete drivers pan/passenger side pan.
  10. It appears to be a standard low-option "sportroof" that has been trimmed up to resemble a Mach 1. The giveaway (among other things) is the center dash emblem: If this were a true Mach 1, it would say "Mach 1" on it instead of just "Mustang". Kit, are you sure on your comment about the center dash. "The giveaway (among other things) is the center dash emblem: If this were a true Mach 1, it would say "Mach 1" on it instead of just "Mustang"." My older brother's first Mach 1 had the standard interior, without comfortweave and without the guage package. I remember his center dash saying Mus
  11. If your idle mixture screw is all the way out, it is way too far. Should be around 1 1/2 full turns out from a gentle bottom out(close). So that would be all the way in, then back it out 1 1/2 turns. That should get the idle set pretty close. Then you can make small 1/4 turns from there to dial it in. +1 on the Petronics ignition module..tha is a must and I would say that should move to the top of your list, next to things that are free of course. Not sure what they run in Belgiun, but US they are like $90.00. One thing to check is your idle mixture screw. If it bottoms out, and the car
  12. Was gonna post some pics of how mine is routed but after seeing T's under carriage that you can eat off, I think I will just sit down... Nice job Thomas!
  13. Interestingly enough Hedman is probably the cheapest and the make the lowest profile header(tucked) header for that engine. The will sit just inside of the frame rail and they will never touch the ground. Mine is lowered 3" and I haven't ever bottomed out my header flanges and I am running the long tube headers. While I have a Cleveland, I have built a few with 302's and tried a bunch of different brands of headers(owners choice), only to find out what I already knew, Hedman tuck the most! For mufflers, keep in mind that headers make everything flow faster, and as a result create more noise

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