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guys72Mach1 last won the day on November 30 2014

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About guys72Mach1

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  • My Car
    1972 Mach 1
    1969 Bronco Sport
    1964 Falcon


  • Location
    Eagle, Idaho
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  1. I have always had good luck with Hooker long tubes and what I'm running on my Cleveland. They tuck tightly and clear everything.
  2. #DontMachMe was chosen for a calendar shoot for our local rock radio station The Eagle. Pretty stoked to not only have the Mach1 selected, but my wife's Bronco as well! They even were able to bribe my wife with a blue tank top to join in for a few pics!
  3. Funny, was just going to post something about this. My 72 Mach 1 gear boxes is going out and getting hard spots, so I've been looking at the options out there. The best performance options based on reviews and comments, looks to be $450+, via powersteering.com. Gotta pay for R/T shipping, then wait 3 weeks to get it back. But, that 12.7:1 steering sounds like the golden ticket. My car is built for protouring, so I'm leaning this way, plus I can use my existing hoses, which now that I put that in writing, they'll prob start leaking! But man, that $5 hundy is a chunk and shipping(and waiting) is a pain.. Decisions decisions
  4. Performer Air Gap manifold makes sure to take up any unused space....thx Edelbrock
  5. I recently dyno'd the Mach and found that my 13" K&N Air Filter with the cast Ford Racing Air cleaner base and lid, resulted in a 20hp loss. Ran it with the air cleaner and without and it picked up 20hp without the filter. I have been searching for a 13" air filter ever since and the closest thing that would fit is a skinny little 12" K&N Filter from Summit. I was shocked to find out that there was such a huge hp loss with the filter on, especially being a K&N, but apparently the air cleaner top so close to the air horn is causing a big restriction. I put a 2" spacer on it, which helped a little, but I can still tell the power difference at WOT with and without the filter on. So my search goes on. Currently not running the ram air, but considering going that route. Whatchu got????
  6. I'd pull out the lock and cylinder(where the key goes in) and inspect the cylinder for proper operation and then also verify that the end portion seats correctly when you put it back in. If that is worn or broken, it can slip and not push/pull the actuating arm when the key is being turned. That would be where I'd start before changing the electrical portion of the ignition switch. Usually if you turn the key and the car doesn't start or stop, the lock and cylinder is not working properly. They tumbler could be stripped and while the key position looks to be in off, it could very well likely be in the run position. To me this would be more likely them the ignition switch mounted on the column. I would completely scratch the starter solenoid out of the equation though. If the car is starting, the solenoid is working and to be honest, they really don't fail all that often. I'd set my focus on the lock and cylinder. Best of luck!
  7. Just take your time. I also moved mine back about 2-3 inches for a little more leg room while driving. +1 on the moved back 2-3 inches. Did the same thing and I am so glad that I did! Nothing like lounging in the back seat while driving the car! Seriously though, the extra couple of clicks made a huge difference in stretching out. Something to consider.
  8. I went with CJ's also. They weren't exact in all of the stamped patterns, but the shape was right on. When it's all said and done, know one will ever know, or even recognize the difference. You can always give it a good whack with a metal hammer and listen to the sound. If it sounds dull, good clue that it needs to be replaced. Old school metal worker habit....
  9. Mine had similar area's of rust and even worse on the passenger side(due to the fresh air intake rotting out). I ended up buying both sides full pans, then cut them up accordingly. I wanted to utilize what ever existing good metal that was there, but definitely wanted to cut out any cancer and area's of suspicion. It was a job, drilling, spot welding, seaming, floating out, sealing, then spraying the sound coating, but well worth the effort. For me, it was better to cut the rear pans in sections and use what I needed, then to use the one piece compete drivers pan/passenger side pan.
  10. It appears to be a standard low-option "sportroof" that has been trimmed up to resemble a Mach 1. The giveaway (among other things) is the center dash emblem: If this were a true Mach 1, it would say "Mach 1" on it instead of just "Mustang". Kit, are you sure on your comment about the center dash. "The giveaway (among other things) is the center dash emblem: If this were a true Mach 1, it would say "Mach 1" on it instead of just "Mustang"." My older brother's first Mach 1 had the standard interior, without comfortweave and without the guage package. I remember his center dash saying Mustang. I have never seen that standard center stack with "Mach 1" in it. +1 on the MUSTANG on the center dash. Mine also came with the MUSTANG on the center dash, had the Corinthian Mach 1 Interior. Not all came with MACH 1 on the center dash.
  11. If your idle mixture screw is all the way out, it is way too far. Should be around 1 1/2 full turns out from a gentle bottom out(close). So that would be all the way in, then back it out 1 1/2 turns. That should get the idle set pretty close. Then you can make small 1/4 turns from there to dial it in. +1 on the Petronics ignition module..tha is a must and I would say that should move to the top of your list, next to things that are free of course. Not sure what they run in Belgiun, but US they are like $90.00. One thing to check is your idle mixture screw. If it bottoms out, and the car still runs, you have a problem with your idle circuit. Check the manifcold and gasket to make sure that your idle needle is peeking through into the manifold circuit(channel). If not, that is a problem. I have seen more then a few incorrect manifolds installed with mix matched carbs that cancel out the idle circuit altogether. So you may want to check all of those things for compatibility and make sure that everything lines up and is operational.
  12. Was gonna post some pics of how mine is routed but after seeing T's under carriage that you can eat off, I think I will just sit down... Nice job Thomas!
  13. Interestingly enough Hedman is probably the cheapest and the make the lowest profile header(tucked) header for that engine. The will sit just inside of the frame rail and they will never touch the ground. Mine is lowered 3" and I haven't ever bottomed out my header flanges and I am running the long tube headers. While I have a Cleveland, I have built a few with 302's and tried a bunch of different brands of headers(owners choice), only to find out what I already knew, Hedman tuck the most! For mufflers, keep in mind that headers make everything flow faster, and as a result create more noise. So someone that has stock manifolds with turbo muffler's is going to be way quiter than that same engine with headers and turbo mufflers. Dynomax will give you that standard turbo sound, but with headers, they tend to resonate a tad, Flowmaster makes a 3 or 2 chamber Delta Flow that isn't too loud, but also still resonate at low rpm and idle just a bit. My personal favorite by far is Spintech. Made here in California, they sound very similar to a Bassani system at a fraction of the price. I expalin it like a Indy Car sound, as opposed to a NASCAR(like Flowmaster) sound. It's a higher pitch sound with no resonation and relatively quiet inside the car, but with a very clean and unique sound out the back. Then when you get on it, it comes alive witha very throaty beefy sound, but still retains that pitch difference. It's a very unique sound and a highly recommend them. It'll make your car sound different then any other one out there. If you are looking for more of a stock type sound, but still want a little something but without resonation, I'd put some Magnaflows on there. Quality design and sound, but with very little tone. Good luck!
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