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Everything posted by guys72Mach1

  1. I have always had good luck with Hooker long tubes and what I'm running on my Cleveland. They tuck tightly and clear everything.
  2. #DontMachMe was chosen for a calendar shoot for our local rock radio station The Eagle. Pretty stoked to not only have the Mach1 selected, but my wife's Bronco as well! They even were able to bribe my wife with a blue tank top to join in for a few pics!
  3. Funny, was just going to post something about this. My 72 Mach 1 gear boxes is going out and getting hard spots, so I've been looking at the options out there. The best performance options based on reviews and comments, looks to be $450+, via powersteering.com. Gotta pay for R/T shipping, then wait 3 weeks to get it back. But, that 12.7:1 steering sounds like the golden ticket. My car is built for protouring, so I'm leaning this way, plus I can use my existing hoses, which now that I put that in writing, they'll prob start leaking! But man, that $5 hundy is a chunk and shipping(and waiting) is a pain.. Decisions decisions
  4. Performer Air Gap manifold makes sure to take up any unused space....thx Edelbrock
  5. I recently dyno'd the Mach and found that my 13" K&N Air Filter with the cast Ford Racing Air cleaner base and lid, resulted in a 20hp loss. Ran it with the air cleaner and without and it picked up 20hp without the filter. I have been searching for a 13" air filter ever since and the closest thing that would fit is a skinny little 12" K&N Filter from Summit. I was shocked to find out that there was such a huge hp loss with the filter on, especially being a K&N, but apparently the air cleaner top so close to the air horn is causing a big restriction. I put a 2" spacer on it, which helped a little, but I can still tell the power difference at WOT with and without the filter on. So my search goes on. Currently not running the ram air, but considering going that route. Whatchu got????
  6. I'd pull out the lock and cylinder(where the key goes in) and inspect the cylinder for proper operation and then also verify that the end portion seats correctly when you put it back in. If that is worn or broken, it can slip and not push/pull the actuating arm when the key is being turned. That would be where I'd start before changing the electrical portion of the ignition switch. Usually if you turn the key and the car doesn't start or stop, the lock and cylinder is not working properly. They tumbler could be stripped and while the key position looks to be in off, it could very well likely be in the run position. To me this would be more likely them the ignition switch mounted on the column. I would completely scratch the starter solenoid out of the equation though. If the car is starting, the solenoid is working and to be honest, they really don't fail all that often. I'd set my focus on the lock and cylinder. Best of luck!
  7. Just take your time. I also moved mine back about 2-3 inches for a little more leg room while driving. +1 on the moved back 2-3 inches. Did the same thing and I am so glad that I did! Nothing like lounging in the back seat while driving the car! Seriously though, the extra couple of clicks made a huge difference in stretching out. Something to consider.
  8. I went with CJ's also. They weren't exact in all of the stamped patterns, but the shape was right on. When it's all said and done, know one will ever know, or even recognize the difference. You can always give it a good whack with a metal hammer and listen to the sound. If it sounds dull, good clue that it needs to be replaced. Old school metal worker habit....
  9. Mine had similar area's of rust and even worse on the passenger side(due to the fresh air intake rotting out). I ended up buying both sides full pans, then cut them up accordingly. I wanted to utilize what ever existing good metal that was there, but definitely wanted to cut out any cancer and area's of suspicion. It was a job, drilling, spot welding, seaming, floating out, sealing, then spraying the sound coating, but well worth the effort. For me, it was better to cut the rear pans in sections and use what I needed, then to use the one piece compete drivers pan/passenger side pan.
  10. It appears to be a standard low-option "sportroof" that has been trimmed up to resemble a Mach 1. The giveaway (among other things) is the center dash emblem: If this were a true Mach 1, it would say "Mach 1" on it instead of just "Mustang". Kit, are you sure on your comment about the center dash. "The giveaway (among other things) is the center dash emblem: If this were a true Mach 1, it would say "Mach 1" on it instead of just "Mustang"." My older brother's first Mach 1 had the standard interior, without comfortweave and without the guage package. I remember his center dash saying Mustang. I have never seen that standard center stack with "Mach 1" in it. +1 on the MUSTANG on the center dash. Mine also came with the MUSTANG on the center dash, had the Corinthian Mach 1 Interior. Not all came with MACH 1 on the center dash.
  11. If your idle mixture screw is all the way out, it is way too far. Should be around 1 1/2 full turns out from a gentle bottom out(close). So that would be all the way in, then back it out 1 1/2 turns. That should get the idle set pretty close. Then you can make small 1/4 turns from there to dial it in. +1 on the Petronics ignition module..tha is a must and I would say that should move to the top of your list, next to things that are free of course. Not sure what they run in Belgiun, but US they are like $90.00. One thing to check is your idle mixture screw. If it bottoms out, and the car still runs, you have a problem with your idle circuit. Check the manifcold and gasket to make sure that your idle needle is peeking through into the manifold circuit(channel). If not, that is a problem. I have seen more then a few incorrect manifolds installed with mix matched carbs that cancel out the idle circuit altogether. So you may want to check all of those things for compatibility and make sure that everything lines up and is operational.
  12. Was gonna post some pics of how mine is routed but after seeing T's under carriage that you can eat off, I think I will just sit down... Nice job Thomas!
  13. Interestingly enough Hedman is probably the cheapest and the make the lowest profile header(tucked) header for that engine. The will sit just inside of the frame rail and they will never touch the ground. Mine is lowered 3" and I haven't ever bottomed out my header flanges and I am running the long tube headers. While I have a Cleveland, I have built a few with 302's and tried a bunch of different brands of headers(owners choice), only to find out what I already knew, Hedman tuck the most! For mufflers, keep in mind that headers make everything flow faster, and as a result create more noise. So someone that has stock manifolds with turbo muffler's is going to be way quiter than that same engine with headers and turbo mufflers. Dynomax will give you that standard turbo sound, but with headers, they tend to resonate a tad, Flowmaster makes a 3 or 2 chamber Delta Flow that isn't too loud, but also still resonate at low rpm and idle just a bit. My personal favorite by far is Spintech. Made here in California, they sound very similar to a Bassani system at a fraction of the price. I expalin it like a Indy Car sound, as opposed to a NASCAR(like Flowmaster) sound. It's a higher pitch sound with no resonation and relatively quiet inside the car, but with a very clean and unique sound out the back. Then when you get on it, it comes alive witha very throaty beefy sound, but still retains that pitch difference. It's a very unique sound and a highly recommend them. It'll make your car sound different then any other one out there. If you are looking for more of a stock type sound, but still want a little something but without resonation, I'd put some Magnaflows on there. Quality design and sound, but with very little tone. Good luck!
  14. Those are nice, but what good is a panhard bar on a leaf spring suspension? I can understand a coil spring solid axle rear, but not a leaf. Correct, although traction bars are designed to prevent axle wrap and keep the leafs from loading under hard acceleration. The panhard bar is designed to reduce or prevent lateral movement. I can tell you first hand that adding the panhard bar and subframe connectors, was like night and day in the handling. Not sure if you read my previous comments that started the thread, but I wasn't expecting such a drastic difference and I certainly wouldn't recommend if it didn't make any difference or even very little difference. Panhard bars have been used in racing for years with great success in leaf spring cars. And with bigger cars like ours, where they are able to have a longer rod, they work very, very well, as I can attest to first hand. It may not be for everyone, but one hard turn in hard acceleration our even in deceleration, I was a believer and really blown away. I drive my car hard everytime I get in it. If it breaks, it gives me something to fix and make better! We have some really nice twisting roads that go on and on through the hills here in Nothern California and I utilize them every chance I get. This last run made me smile for a few hours after. Night and day, that's all I can say brothers! Looking forward to acing the 15" BF Goodrichs and getting some nice 17" Bridgestone's on there and then seeing what's really going on!
  15. 1973 Mach 1, 521cid Stroker w/ Ported Aluminium SCJ-A Heads, TKO600, 3.70 gears, wavetrac diff, 35 spline moser axles, and 49ER colors baby!!! You had me all the way until you dropped the 49er colors!!! ~~~ Silver & Black is where it's at ~~~
  16. So I talked to Mike Maier today and while they don't have it updated on their site yet, he told me that it would run the same price as the 70 Panhard kit, which is $379.00. The subs are $369.00. He said he got a few emails from the 7173Mustang crew already and was stoked that the word is out. If interest continues, he said that they may endeaver into even more suspension upgrades for the 71-73 platform. Here is the link to their suspension only site with the detail. You can call them or email to maier@maierracing.com http://www.maiermotorsports.com/rear-suspension I was one of the one's that sent them an email and inquired about Staggered shock cars. They said it would work fine but the exhaust would need to be rerouted (figured that though). I also asked about a custom Monte Carlo bar for the 71-73's that would clear the Dist. cap and for ram-air setups. They said that if someone was in the area they would love to fab one on their car but needed a volunteer......I'm in OH so I can't but anyone close to help out the rest of the community?...:) BDK Right on..I need to roll by there next week and talk about maybe making some slight mod's to the upper panhard bar bracket to allow for more tailpipe clearance on the passenger side, so I'll ask about the Monte Carlo bar and see if they want to take some measurements. Check back with me late next week and I'll let you know how it goes.
  17. So I talked to Mike Maier today and while they don't have it updated on their site yet, he told me that it would run the same price as the 70 Panhard kit, which is $379.00. The subs are $369.00. He said he got a few emails from the 7173Mustang crew already and was stoked that the word is out. If interest continues, he said that they may endeaver into even more suspension upgrades for the 71-73 platform. Here is the link to their suspension only site with the detail. You can call them or email to maier@maierracing.com http://www.maiermotorsports.com/rear-suspension
  18. Cool...well check out the site and spread the word.. We are expecting about 300 vehicles this year. It's always a great event! Hope to see you there! Guy
  19. Hey Cazsper, On another note....I am organizing a car show in Livermore on July 13th. It is open to all vehicles, we have everything from a 68 VW, to a Daytona Coupe, to a Military prototype sand rail with a Viper V10 sticking out the back. In every stage of construction. No fee to enter your vehicle and lots to do,. Great cars, laid back event, BBQ ribs and chicken and live music! Check it out, I'd love to see you there and get some 71-73 rep! http://rimzandribz.com/homeabout.html
  20. NO ENTRY FEE! This event features vehicles from Daytona Coupes to 32 Fords to Subura WRX's and all in betweens. We are feature the greatest Monster Truck in the World Bigfoot#8. Boneheads BBQ is cooking up the Ribz and chicken and there will be live music from 10am-2pm. We will be raffling off free giveaways for the entree's throughout the day, provided by our generous sponsors. For all the event details and pre register online, please go to our website at. http://rimzandribz.com
  21. In regards to restriction, if the pipes came out of the collector at 2", yes, I would say that there would be some restriction. But thru the muffler you already have restriction with the baffles that slow down the air flow, then exiting dropping down to 2" outside as opposed to 2 1/4", I think you would be hard pressed to prove there is a difference there. I worked at a custom exhaust shop for years and every single hot rodder that came in wanted 2 1/2" or 3" pipes on their car, because of fear of restriction and power loss. Don't hate on me if you were one of them?? :P We even took part in a few Dynos before and after exhaust systems have been installed and from what I have seen, after the muffler with 4' of 2", pipe there is no restriction or power loss there. Unless you are pushin 750hp, you will see no difference with such a short tailpipe pipe run. The bends are more of a factor then the pipe diameter. Of course, you could take the exhaust pressure leaving the collector and calculate the pipe run, the diameter, the pressure drop after the baffles and exiting the muffler, the bends, how many and the angles of each and prove the fact scientifically. But I only pulled a D- in algebra, so take that into account when you listen to me!
  22. So, couple of questions. Would this work with an M code car with staggered shocks? and how difficult would it be to route the exhaust over the rearend and around the Panhard? BDK Not sure about the staggered shocks, although if the drivers side is behind the axle and the passenger side shock is in front of the axle, you should be fine. If visa versa, that may be a problem, routing the tailpipe on the passenger side. The passenger side was the toughest to route the pipe, had to 3 piece it and drop down to 2" pipe after the muffler. Have 2 1/2" up to the Spintechs, but there was no way to make 2 1/4" clear. It was tight, but it all clears, no rubbing or contact anywhere. Still sounds killer, no power loss. I'll try and get some shots on the rack with the piping, but just know that it is tight but not impossible!
  23. No front end work up there yet. All my stuff up there is pretty new, already had the Maier coil springs, so other then going to the Koni's, no other work other than rear suspension panhard bar, subs and rear leafs. But like I said earlier, just the work in the rear made it feel like my whole front end was done. Pretty amazing that tightening up the back makes such a huge difference in the cornering and excelarating out of the corner. Plus, I still have those crappy T/A's on there that are so slow to respond to hard turns. Love the way they look, but their performance leaves a lot to be desired. Guess that's what you get for 40 year old technology that hasn't changed! Thanks BF Goodrich for really keeping it retro! There close to you man, hit them up!
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