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Everything posted by guys72Mach1

  1. Thanks! They have not updated the website yet, but these were specifically built for the 71-73 platform. They used my car as a template and only had to make some very slight mod's from the 70 parts to make them fit. I was worried about the subframe connectors as my car is lowered quite a bit, so I was worried about having some clearance issue's. But as you can see from the pix, the sub's do not extend below the frame and about the only thing that sits a little low, is the panhard bar lower brackets, but they do not scrape on anything. Plus, it looks cool! If you are interested in pricing, give Mike a call and tell him I pointed you to him. He will get you hooked up. I told them I was going to post some pix on here and that they may be getting some calls. +1 I am also looking to do sub frame work and wanted to the same thing. On the other hand I really like what Obsidian71 did on his car but I don't think I have the skill he does with a welder. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-sn71?page=5 Just found this on Dallas Mustangs site "Subframe Connectors, 1967-1973, Coupe & Fastback, Global West" http://www.dallasmustang.com/mustang-parts/product/Subframe-Connectors-1967-1973-Coupe-Fastback-Global-West/10481 I would call Maier Racing but I bet if you are welding these in they will cover 67-73 just fine. Just a guess at this point. I am out of town for a while but I'll re-post when I can if someone doesn't beat me to it. Also the proof would be on the nice red fastback! :D :) Yah, Obsidian's is pretty sick. Having the frame off allows for some craziness to take place for sure. Some really nice work on his ride. About the fitment..see above thread. Thanks! Well I guess you need to bring that bad boy to the States and do some road rippin', American style!! What's the reason they give that they don't allow suspension mod's like this? Maybe they can build you a stealth version that blends with the undercarriage! :D
  2. Eventually, I'll hit the track with it. Brakes are next, then going through the rearend, then probably go to 16" or 17" magnum 500's, so I can get some good tires on there, then it'll be track ready. Until then the back roads will do!
  3. Just picked up Maier Racings rear panhard bar and subframe connectors and I have to say it was one of the biggest differences I have ever seen in regards to handling. First hard turn I took, couldn't believe how the car turned like it was on a rail, no lean, no rear end twitch, just cornered. If I didn't know better I would have thought that they rebuilt my front end! If anyone is interested in picking some up, hit up Mike Maier or any of the guys there and tell them that you want the same set up as Guys red & black 72 Mach 1. http://www.maiermotorsports.com/rear-suspension , Call 510-581-7600 or email maier@maierracing.com. Everything welds on, so you have to be willing to alter that way and I needed to work some magic on the tail pipe routing, as it's pretty tight, but well worth the effort for the result.
  4. I have always slammed my Mustangs and this one is no different. 3" in the front and 4" in the back. As a result, I have had a few different brands of headers and have seen many others over the years building Mustangs and doing custom exhaust. In my experience, Hedman makes the best header for tucking up underneath close to the frame. Performance wise, all headers are the same, although manufacturing varies and quality of the product varies too. But as far as ground clearance goes, Hedman has it by far. Made in Mexico now, so the material is ok, as is the workmanship, but not as nice as say Sanderson. However, they tuck way underneath, so much so that you will need to add some extra supports to your speedo cable so it doesn't get burned. Good luck on your quest for clearance.
  5. That is no task for the weary and is very involved. I had made some block out plates just like that for mine to get me through the rainy season until I could tear into mine. It slowed down the leaks but didn't eliminate them and it sucked not having the fresh air anymore. There are a ton of threads on the cowl repair, a few different opinions on how to do it. But what ever method you choose, you will need a cutting wheel, welder, some sheet metal, metal working capability and patience. And patience. Did I mention patience? Also, take lots of pics before you start and as you go for reference. I have some photos on my garage page of how mine went, if you want to check it out and I know that Q has a pretty cool instructional vid that walks you through the repair.
  6. If I was a betting man, I would say deck lid brackets of some sort. But don't look to be off of a 71-73.
  7. My '71 was sold in San Jose but built in Detroit. Maybe my shoulder harness is after market. The original style is a PITA, but in CA you have to wear them, if they came with the car. Maybe if I am bored some day I will drive without using the belt, get a ticket, go to court and see what happens. These cars don't have air bags and I don't know about a collapsible steering column so a shoulder harness is not a bad idea. All things considered. mike Mine was built in Dearborn, but sold in San Jose and it came with the shoulder harness. Although, when I rebuilt it and put in the new headliner, I never installed the shoulder strap back in. In Cali, you could get the ticket tossed based on the grand father clause for sure.. IF it wasn't sold as original equipment. Not sure how you would prove that though, detailed Marti maybe or OE sticker. Regardless, back to the question, I have had my eye on that Dallas Mustang conversion kit with the retractable shoulder harness for some time. Looks like a nice design and swaps the lower retractable belt with the shoulder belt. Retains an OE look but you don't get choked out reaching for something! Let us know how it works out if you go for it!
  8. Just an fyi for other readers...I am running the KYB's and am less then impressed with them. In all fairness, I am lowered quite a bit, so that always skews things. But, they float too much in heavy cornering, for my taste anyway. I will be swapping over to the Koni's this winter, as I have a few friends that have them on their 71-73's and they handle well. What P/N's did you end up ordering?
  9. Check with Maier Racing http://www.maierracing.com/. They have a complete set up that is off the hook!
  10. Sweet! That is rewarding to have your hard work recognized! Congrats!
  11. Nice ride! And welcome aboard from California where the convertible was born!
  12. Welcome from Northern California and thank you for your service!!
  13. I went with a 2 stage PPG Viper Red and am really happy with it. It has less orange then the factory color and a little darker. Everywhere I go people comment on the color and how they love it.
  14. Sounds like old dry belts. Many times the belt will look fine, no cracks or anything, but when you rev it, you will get a high pitch shriek, almost like a crow is being tortured under your hood! Trans won't make noise if it's not in gear. If it's a flex plate, you will usually get a tic, much like a lifter noise that will speed up with RPM, but it won't squeel. Sound's like you need new belts to me. Like Wolvy said, pull the belts off, fire it up and then rev it a few times. If no noise, there is your problem. I would just get all new ones at that point. If one is bad, the others are probably shortly behind it and the last thing I want to do, is do something twice when I could have easily done it once! Unless of course, I'm drinking a scotch, then I make an exception to this rule.
  15. I've got a few buddies that tried that route and didn't get very far. Although it wasn't for lack of trying or exposure. The problem is, you are looking for parts bartered for display only, which is what every race car owner wants as well. Unless your John Force or Chip Foose, parts stores ain't gonna give you parts for advertising. One solid thing I've had success with, is watching C-list for people that want to trade car repairs for whatever they got. They pay for the parts, you do the repair and walk away with a big screen TV, or tires, or??? Then you flip that for sale on Clist and BAM you got $$$ to spend on your ride. Takes a little time and effort, but then again, nothing worth having is free!
  16. Sounds ignition related to me. If it was fuel, you'd think that when starting it back up it would be hard starting as when you are under load, the fuel pump is pulling harder then when at idle. Having said that, if you haven't changed the fuel filter in a while in while, I'd do that first and then I'd slap a new coil in there. Coils go out intermittently, until the just go out. If it is getting weak and cutting out like that, it won't be long intil it drops out altogether and leaves you stranded. If you buy anew coil and it's not the coil, then you got an extra coil for the future to use for troubleshooting! The fact the it starts to miss, dies, then fires right back up, sounds like the coil is done, to me. Best of luck
  17. Sounds like a choke issue. I would check your choke position when you first crank it over. Maybe adjust it back to open a little more. Also, lube up all your linkage on around the choke and throttle body base. A little bit of white lithium works will keep it lubed for ever. Before you crank it are you giving it any gas? If not, may want to try putting your foot all the way to the floor one time then letting off. Give it a crank and see if it liked it. May just need to get a little pump shot before you crank it.
  18. Lots of past threads on this topic. I've built and tuned more Ford's with Holleys then I can count, and the Edelbrock Performer, Torker II(or if you are getting a newer manifold the Air Gap) and Holley carb combination will wake that engine up like you won't believe. I would recommend either a Holley 4776, or of you wanted to step up one more to a 4777, it would still run strong on there. Like any Holley, getting your jetting right it most crucial. The 4776(600 mech sec) will run real good, but you will need to jet it up a little in the primaries most likely. Either way, mechanical secondaries is a must for foot to the floor performance. If you decide to go with the Holley, shoot me your engine specs and I'll send you the jet, nozzle, accelerator pump numbers that will get you real close and save you a bunch of R&D time and money. Same offer goes to anyone reading this. Like I said, over 25 years of rebuilding and tuning Holley's on Fords gets you a lot of notes and short cuts, that I would be happy to share. BTW, I am running the Edelbrock Air Gap manifold with Holley 4779(750 with mech secondaries) and it absolutely flies. Probably could have gone up to 800, cause I've got it jetted way up. Best of luck! +2 to what Mike said. Throw the chart out the window with this application. 302 or 351 W, you'd wanna stay at or below a 650, unless it was really pumped the 351W can handle more. The 289 or 302 both run well with a 1850(600 vac secondaries). But if you compare those engines side by side with the Cleveland, why would you limit yourself to the same size carb? Go bigger, you will be glad you did.
  19. Welcome from the West Coast!
  20. If you hit hard enough to tear the seat out of the metal you have more than the seat coming loose to worry about. IMO My thoughts exactly!! Safety first is very important and you can never be too safe, which is why I made plate mounts in lieu of just welding a nut to the floor. But if my 3" sq 1/4 plate rips out of the floor and my seat belt goes along with it, there are more pressing things that will need to be addressed!
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