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Everything posted by guys72Mach1

  1. Wow! That's a nice lookin engine bay and I love the Air Filter! Thanks! It matched up pretty good with the V/C's, was hard to find a K&N to fit though.
  2. You can get them through Summit or Jegs, just a Standard Grant wheel that I polished up and threw a Mustang horn button on.
  3. I just rebuilt the carb being a 4300D I thought i'd give it a shot if it don't work I'll have to replace carb & intake.But I think it's a electrical problem because when it won't start you can smell gas! If you are cranking the engine over, but don't touch the gas pedal, do you still smell gas? When it's hot, have you tried putting the pedal all the way to the floor and holding it there, then cranking the engine and trying to start it? If it starts this way, then it is getting flooded. If it only doe sthis when it is hot, then this would tell you that the carb is ok, otherwise it would act the same way hot or cold. May atleast eliminate the carb chasing and point you back towards ignition.
  4. Just make sure to bleed it all the way through all the lines a few times that way you clean the old fluid out. The synthetic is great, plus if you spill it on the paint, you can just wipe it right off without any worries of damage down the road.
  5. I went with with the Summit cylinder with the site gauge. It mounted up nice and neat and gave some more room there. For me, I wanted it to blend and not be noticed, so it seemed to accomplish that and still serve it's purpose....And it was economical, like $20, so I was able to buy beer that week! Summit Racing SUM-G1473 - Summit Racing® Radiator Catch Cans with Sight Tube
  6. I have a bad back and my knees are shot, so I wanted to pay a little attention to the pilot and co pilot seating! I moved mine back almost 3" and love having the extra room. I do not regularly drive with it all the way back, but it is nice to not be maxed out and be able to move it back a few notches when I am going on a long drive and want to stretch my knees out. First, I cut the studs off of my slides and drilled new holes for a 3/8 bolt. For the front's, I made 3"x 3" squares out of 1/4" plate and then welded some 3/8 nuts to the bottom of them. Marked up the floor, then drilled the holes so that the nut would recess into the floor. I also wanted my seats to sit a little lower and lean back just a tad more, so I had to heat up the rear part of the floor board(where the back of the seat bottom bolts down) and flatten that out a bit until the seat sat at the angle I wanted and cleared that rise in the floor. After I had the right angle and position I fabricated some mounting brackets, for the rear mounts. Because I had moved it back from the original mounts, I either needed to go through the floor board and do some reinforcement down below, or make an L bracket and mount it to the back side of the rise in the floor, that I just flattened down a bit. I like the latter option, as the rear passenger could still put their feet underneath the back of the set without kicking and mounts and it just looked a lot cleaner. This took some time to get the brackets in the right spot, but after a few tries it lined up nicely. I drilled the mounting hole in the bottom of the "L" bracket and then tacked it to the rail with the "L" facing down, like if you rotated it clockwise 90 degrees. Then I welded the bracket to the bottom of the rail, carefully and slowly back and forth in small welds, so I didn't heat up the rail and the possibly warp or melt anything. Mine have the roller bearing inside. After I welded those on, then I bolted the seat in with the front mounts and then marked through the holes in the rear mounts, the appropriate spot on the back of the hump on the floor board. This was directly behind the stock mounts, just on the downside of the hump instead of the top. I didn't want to just weld a bolt to the floor for safety reasons, so I fabbed up some more "L" brackets. But this time I welded a bolt the bottom of the "L" so the bolt would be coming straight down, with the bolt coming from the bottom. I flipped the bracket so it would be like a backwards L, then rotated it counter clockwise 90 degress, so the long part was face down and the mounting bolt was pointing towards the back seat. Tacked those in place, then dropped the seat back on to make sure that everything lined up. The seat slide onto the back mounting bolts first, then the front mounts rested on the 3" x 3" plates. Bolted everything down and was off to the races. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pics as I was doing it, just was caught up in the moment and rolled with it. I ended up with low sitting front seats, just reclined back a bit with extra leg room. Whenever someone sits in the front, they always comment on how comfortably they sit in the car. I never really thought about why until now! With the seats all the way back, there is a little leg room for passengers, but just little ones! But I can always slide them forward to make room for full sizers.. I am very glad I did it and it makes a huge difference for me whether around town, commting, or on a long haul.
  7. Sounds like advance and maybe a carb issue as well. Might want to check your advance and see if it is holding vacuum(if it is vacuum). Or if is mechanical, check the springs and see if they are worn and need to be replaced. What is your timing set at now? What kind of carb and was it out of the box reman or did someone rebuild it?
  8. Welcome from Northern Cali! Post some pix so we can check out your ride!
  9. b] I have not checked that. In fact, umm... that's the accelerator pump diaphragm, yeah? Lol, been a while since I took apart carb. What should I be looking for with it?[/b] The easiest way to check the accelerator pump is to put it back on the base and the press the lever in until it bottoms out. While it is in, put your finger over the acc pump port outlet on the inside of the metering block. Then let go of the lever(arm). It should not move if the acc pump diaphragm is not leaking and holding air. Or you could just drop $10 bucks and replace it? Or better yet, get a rebuild kit for $35, plus a couple cans of carb clean and just rebuild the whole thing while it's off. If it hasn't been rebuilt in 3-5 years, it could probably stand a freshen up. That would be my suggestion and then you would be done with guessing if the carb is working right. Just clean everything like you intend to eat off of it before you put it back together and blow it out real good.
  10. No one believes it is a true Harley if the motorcycle is running well. OHHHHHHHHHHH No U didn't????? :@
  11. So weird looking, but cool at the same time.
  12. Nice step by step. One comment though, you can polish them. Mine were in pretty bad shape and as a result I picked up an extra set to play around with. This set had some sort of coating or plating on it, with almost a black tint to it. I had to sand them way down to remove it all, then after a few hours on the one, I figured I was wasting my time and had ruined it. I took it to a metal polishing shop, they chem dipped them, cleaned them and then poilished them. They came out like chrome. Blew my mind. The one that I had messed with came out nice too, although there are a few spots underneath that you can see a little bit of imperfection from me sanding them. But they did polish up real nice, way better then I could of imagined. If I had not sanded it and just let them strip, dip and polish, they would have been perfect. It cost about $125 by the time it was all said and done.
  13. Just cause the machine said 00 doesn't mean that the wheel is balanced at higher speeds. I used to run a tire shop and many times people would bring back cars that had noo vibration before and a vibration after we balanced their wheels. We had a high speed balancer, but some balancers are better then others, dynamic, static, etc. The really good balancers are very expensive and not many shops have them. If the vibration is felt in the front end or steering wheel, it can only be generated from the wheels. If you can feels it in the center of the car, under your seat, or the back of the car shakes, but not in the steering wheel, it could be in your driveshaft, u joints or harmonic balancer. But, if it didn't do it before they balanced the tires and now it does, that would lead me to believe that they need to balance it again.
  14. I run NGK's in everything. Fords run especially well on them. The Harley dealer pitches a fit when he see's them in my bike and tells me I need to replace them with Champions, but then at the same time commented that my 7 year old bike runs better then 90% of the newer bikes he sees..hmmmmm, but I guess I should change to Champions cuz thats what I am supposed to run??? Anyway, I highly recommend the NGK's. NGK's have a specific heat range that only spans 1-2 temps. Autolite's usually cover 10-12. Pretty big range there.
  15. Bumped the timing a degree and adjusted the primary accelerator pump a 1/4 turn. Headed out to work at 6:00am on a beautiful sunshiny California morning. Then freakin' launched it getting on the freeway with my foot to the floor. Let off at just over 120. It felt nice to "merge" on the freeway at an acceptable speed. Better then a shot off expresso... although probably cost me as much in gas!
  16. You need to be careful with Octand Boosters, they will taint you plug electrode a sort of chalky rust color, which will effect the spark plug performance. I run 94 (either Chevron or 76 only though) and add Redline Fuel Injector Cleaner ever few tank fulls to keep the valves and everything inside clean. It runs solid always, no pinging, no issues. Every now and again I'll run some 110 race gas through it and all my vehicles as well. I definetly notice the performance difference and the smell of race gas out the tail pipe is just an added bonus! I think the brand of gas has more to do with it then the octane though. BP, Circle K, Am/Pm, Saefway, Costco, all suck and I wouldn't run it in my lawn mower. Stay with 76, Chevron, maybe even Shell on occasion and you should be fine whatever octane you run. I would recommend leaving the octane boost alone though. Buy a 5 gal can of race gas and mix that in every now and again if you want some boost. Liek I said, I recommend Redline SI-1, carb/injector/valve cleaner, you can run the whole thing in one tank, or just a shot here and there. It won't boost the octane, but does a really good job cleaning up all the deposit and crap that are left behind with the gas we have to all use now.
  17. I bought new foam for my front seats then cut up the old foam from the front and shaped it to fit the back seat. It was pretty easy and got the job done. It was even little thicker than the rear seat material. I guess that would mean that you could buy the front seat foam new and cut it up to work as well!
  18. Cool story..thanks for sharing it! Welcome to the club from Nor Cal!
  19. While I am not a real big fan of the 17"+ wheels, I think those look good and our body style allows for a bigger wheel look without making it a focal point. That green reminds me of a 66 Tbird I had, real similar to the factory color. I like it all!
  20. Welcome in from Dublin, California! Look forward to seeing it around one day.. And thank you for your service and sacrifice for our country and others!
  21. I have the MSD with the straights too, if you are careful you can bend the pug electrode just enough to get a little degree out of the rear two plugs. That was what I did and it worked out nicely.
  22. I am running a 750 with mechanical secondaries that is jetted way up and nozzled way up with the 50cc secondary acc pump. Our engine specs are pretty close, and because I am jetted so far up, I probably could have ran an 800cfm with mechanical secondaries. My car pulls hard at any gear, although because of the gears(2.75), is a little slow, just off the line. At 25-45, in first gear, if you romp on it, it launches hard and pulls all the way up through the gears to 120. On the freeway at 80mph, I'm taching about 2800rpm. If I put my foot to the floor it takes off instantly and pulls hard up thru 120mph. Kinda scary actually how hard it pulls at that speed and make me want to get some higher gears before I get myself into trouble. Anyway, sounds liek you need to dump that vac secondary and step up to a 750, maybe even 800 mechanical secondaries. If you want to take a ride to Dublin, I'll take you for a little ride and you can decide for your self if like the response of the mechanical secondary. I work in San Leandro and driv ethe Mach pretty regularly, if you wanted to meet up there. If you decide to go with the Holley, I'd be happy to give you some jet, nozzle and pump settings to get you real close. Or you could bring it over to me and I'll set it up for you?
  23. Those won't work. You need either 45 or straight boot/electrode ends.
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