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guys72Mach1

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Everything posted by guys72Mach1

  1. I got one for a mid 70's F150 with a 351M. I wanted one with a 45 angle, so it was cleaner. P/N: Standard V-178
  2. Welcome from NorCal! Looks like you are all in on this build! Nice work.
  3. You should put a liitle dialectric grease on the boot and then slide it up a little so the electrode is just sticking out. Slide it onto the plug until it clicks in place. Then slide the insulating boot down over the plug. Should be a nice snug fit. If they are close to the headers, get a good grip on the boot with your palm where the electrode is and give it a liitle push to slightly bend them away. Always put a little dab of dialectric grease on the porcelain part of the plug, or just inside the boot, this will make it easy to take off in the future and they will never get stuck on.
  4. Very cool cars and story to go along with them! Welcome to the site from California!
  5. Tie rods would not cause a vibration. Tie rods are used for adjusting the toe angle of your wheels. Like pigeon toed(toed in). This cause the inner edge of the tire to wear. If it's toed out, the outer edge wears. A bad ball joint cause's a pop in the front end, usually when you are turning all the way, or in or out of a driveway, kinda like a CV joint sound. Intermittent high speed vibrations are caused only by something being out of balance, whether it's a bent rim, flat spot on tire(from locking tires up) or the tire guys didn't do a very good job balancing it. Take it back and tell them you have a high speed vibration and they need to balance it again. If your tires are the same size, you should always put the new tires in the front. To check the tie rods, jack the car up, and grab the tie rod with you hands, roll it back and forth. If it is really easy to move them, they need to be replaced. You said you had top and side to side play on the wheel, that is indication that the tie rods are bad. You will need to align it after repalcing the rods.
  6. No PCV = oil leaks...need to run the PCV valve. You can get the Ford Racing PCV valve grommet from Summit for like $8.
  7. Charcoal canister and stock air cleaner is long gone. I'll check the tank for the vent line though and see where it end at. I don't hear anything when I take the cap off. I'll check the flappers. thanks for the possible solutions.
  8. It's the pop open cap, but the NASA style with the twist cap underneath. Whatchu talkin bout Willis???? What vent?
  9. All it takes is one little tiny piece of build up or sludge to dislodge somewhere and clog up a venturi in the carb. Especially, with a Quadrajet(junk). Plus there a 150 different little parts inside those carbs and they are very difficult to rebuild right. Not that it can't be done, but it's not for the novice. I'd toss that thing in the garbage can(where those Rochesters feel most comfortable)and go pick up a nice Holley 650cfm for that thing. Vacuum secondary of you are more concerned with just cruising, but still want better performance, or mechanical secondary if you like to romp on it. May take some jetting to get it dialed, but once it's tuned, you will be stoked! If you do go for the Holley, which I highly recommend, I'd be happy to give you some Holley set up's, jet's nozzles, etc, that will get you real close to being dialed.
  10. Hey Jenny, welcome aboard from the East Bay!! We have a few Mustang shows coming up here, maybe we'll cross paths! There having the Goldengate Mustang Nationals in Concord on June 22-24, massive show/weekend. Check it out..
  11. Welcome from the Wild Wild West!!
  12. Nope..running like a top. This is raw fuel fumes, right from the trunk. It's like a vacuum inside the car and as soon as a window is rolled down it's pulled up to the passener compartement.
  13. So I can drive around all day long with the windows up and not smell a thing, but if I crack my windows, with 10 seconds I get a fresh fuel wiff that fills the passenger compartment. If I roll the windows down all the way, it flow enough air to take it out. There are no fuel leaks, so it's definetly coming from the trunk. All my fuel lines and filler neck line are new, so nothing getting out there. When I pop the trunk, it's doesn't smell like gas. So only when I crack or roll a window down a little, when I'm moving it draws the fumes in? Anyone else have this or is it just me?
  14. I'd replace the PCV valve first. Cheap and easy enough. Also, how is your oil level, high,low or just right? Do you have to keep adding oil? How does the exhaust look when your under load? Any smoke?
  15. NGK's run killer in Fords. They are long lasting and aren't easily fouled out with very tight heat ranges. Have been running NGK's for years in 260's, 289's, 300's, 302's, 351W's and 351C's. No better plug on the market for Ford's. In my opinion anyway.
  16. I used Trim Black for the hood, rockers and valances. Matched perfectly with the decals.
  17. Thumbs up, here! New weatherstripping, and adjusting the felts and guides should snug it up. Mine almost pops my ears when I close the door. One of the things I really love about my Mach is how quiet it is inside, even though it's pretty loud outside. I have no stereo, so no rattles is a must for me!
  18. Sometime an extra inch makes all the difference in the world:whistling: If no one else is gonna take that lob ball..... THATS WHAT SHE SAID
  19. I have one. It gets the job done and as long as your not laying on your back looking up, you really can't see any difference from a real one. The only issue I have is that I did not get a good seal right in the front center, closest to hood and when it sits in the heat, when it's real hot, like over 90, it pulls up like 3/8-1/2". When air flow gets going it cools and settles back down. That bugs the crap out of me, but not enough to buy a new dash and replace it. Maybe one day. If you get one, make sure to get a decent amount of adhesive on the leading edge.
  20. Was thinking the same thing..Between the seat and tracks, that way it wouldn't effect the slide angles.
  21. You can check to see if it's leaking by spraying carb cleaner directly into that area while the car is running. If the idle goes up momentarily, then there is a leak there. If nothing changes, then no leak. But either way, changing that base gasket is easy enough.
  22. Our engine specs are very similar, my cam is a little bigger and I am running a mechanical fuel pump and the hedman headers. I went with Hedman cuz they tuck up into the frame tighter then the Hookers and I'm lowered 3", so the clearance was important for me. I am running the billet Flame Thrower D132701 with the vacuum/machanical advance from Summit and am really happy with it. One thing to note though, it is really tall and I needed to put a 1" spacer under the air cleaner to get some clearance. It didn't touch, but I didn't like the way it looked with the air cleaner so close. Functionality wise, it's great though, no complaints and really nice to have the mech/vacuum advance curve adjustments.
  23. Speaking of swallowing vomit, i think that's what that paint scheme is called! That car was even ugly back then...Some french dude's rolling deep through Venice pickin' up chics cuz he's got a US American bitchin ride!
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