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guys72Mach1

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Everything posted by guys72Mach1

  1. Sounds like someone primered them before..If thats the case then you need to strip the primer. I use a product called Motsenbockers Lift off (Home Depot)..It's a water base stripper & works excellent on plastic..The key is to watch it & never let it dry out on the part your stripping...I have also used brake fluid on many plastic parts with no problem (Thats a body shop trick that many people don't know about)..BUT you should always test a small spot first. DO NOT USE SANDPAPER on any textured part..First off it never gets all the nooks cranny's in the texture & 2nd if your not careful it will knock down the texture..Use a scotch brite pad instead..Also do not use soap...Some soaps have oils & additives that will cause poor adhesion..Once you get it stripped follow the procedure in my vid.. Sand paper is fine as long as you don't flat sand the texture away or use a belt sander. but I think most people are smarter then that. I have redone many, many interior panels by sanding and the finish looks perfect, can't see sand marks and you can still see the texture just fine. I never have problems getting the nooks and crannies with sand paper, but maybe I'm just a really detail oriented... Brake fluid can easily get down into any small imperfections or cracks and if you don't thoroughly clean it and get it out, it will come back through and jack up all your hard work. Better off using something made for cleaning and prepping paint and not taking any chances. But that's just me. Hey, nice vid though!
  2. NO BRAKE FLUID!! Soap and water first, then some 400 sand paper and lightly sand, almost just a wipe. After the paper wears down a little, go back over it with a little more detail and get the nokes and crannies. Then wash soap and water. Wipe down with a good grease and wax remover. I sprayed mine with duplicolor vinyl dye and they came out really nice. The gloss is too much and the flat is to dull, so I used the flat first as a base, then coated with the gloss, then fogged the flat over the gloss so it wasn't so shinny. Came out with a very clean finish, very close to the new ones.
  3. That sucks...........Upper Marlboro huh? Used to live in Bowie, dated a chic from Marlboro..ahhhh the good ole carefree days!
  4. It's a nice problem to have once you get it solved! Too stiff will for sure get them hoppin'. You definetly want to have some travel in the back to allow the weight to transfer. Otherwise, it stops in the middle of the car instead of over the diff. Your tire pressure will have an affect on that as well. Where are you at there? For hard launches, you probably want to be in the 25-30psi range. Not the best for daily driving, but good for traction. You might try that first since it's easy and see what if it helps.
  5. So I am guessing that the new rad cap didn't do it? A little late now, but the heads gaskets are both marked FRONT, One side the wording goes down facing the block, so it looks wrong at first glance because it is not identical sitting on the engine. The other side is upright facing the head. If it is backwards, you will block the water outlet to that head, but it will still flow to the other side. If the weather gasn't been that hot, the engine temp may not be effected until you start getting 80-90 ambient.
  6. Got my attention!! My heads is spinning with possibilities..that Clevelend looks like a 200 with that big ole bird catcher on it!
  7. Easy work, but you will need a steering wheel puller. Do it yourself. One note, make sure sure that you have the steering wheel straight before you pull it off , so when you put it back on you drop it in the same place.
  8. I'll tell you what, drive over to California and I'll switch it out with my non-fold down seat for you free of charge! Mines super light and a breeze to pull out! That's just how I roll, always thinking of others!:D
  9. For the record, I have never had a sticky throttle linkage...on my Mustang. This holley I am going to rebuild has seen probably 15000 gallons of Arco, and sitting dry for a year. I can't wait to take it apart. I'll drive it up there WITH the carburetor on it, then we can swap it at your house for the drive back for a REAL LIFE COMPARISON. Sounds like a plan!! Do you like WalScotch? I here it isn't bad after the first bottle. Yah, I heard the same thing about terpentine!!
  10. It's usually easier to have it upright and it keeps you honest so you don't lay too much on. Paint running down the item would be bad!! And puddling would bad! You want very light coats leading up to a finish coat. The finish coat whould be your heaviest, but still light. You want it to look wet and even, but if it's to heavy it wll run. Then you have to let it dry, sand the run out and do it over.
  11. I hate to be the barer of bad news my brother, but that Holley 600 is too small for your engine and you are getting a lean stumble under load. Are you running a 1850 or a 4777? If an 1850, those come from the factory with 66 jets in the primary. Generally you want to change jets in 2-3 step increments, but since you are pretty under carbed, I'd jump up to 72's and see how it runs. If it improves, then try 74's. If it improves again try 75's or 76's. I think that will be as high as you can go and I have a feeling the 74 will probably be the sweet spot, but that would get you a little improvement. all that will probably run you about $20-30 if you have to buy the jets. Once you get there, you may try bumping your primary nozzle up to a 28 or maybe even a 31. If it's a 4777, I may have the specs for that one to get you close, but there will be a lot of changes and if you don;t have a good stock of jets and nozzles, it's gonna cost you some more $$$. If it was me, I'd C-list that bad boy and pick up a 700 or 750cfm Holley, which is where you should be. I know that hurts, but your options are a lot of part changes to try and fix something that you could do quickly with he right cfm carb.
  12. I'm running a Holley 0-4779-3, 750cfm dp with mechanical secondaries and it's jetted way up. 75's primary, 84's secondary and it screams until I let off. Was running a 4778, 700cfm,dp with mech sec. before I rebuilt the engine and it performed very well. I'd say if you have a mild engine and you are going to run vacuum secondaries, then either your 670 jetted up and maybe nozzled up would be good, or bump to a 0-4118 725cfm and maybe jet it up a little if you have to. I think the 750(3310) vac secondary may be a little heavy off the line. It would probably run fine, but just not perform to it's capacity. It's always better to be lean and go up, then visa versa.
  13. I have had good luck with duplicolor for the engine and pulleys and stuff. For engine compartment's or exterior stuff I'd use Rustoleum or even OSH brand works good too. Get the clear coat to match and make sur ethat the primer, color and clear are all the same brand and base, so you don't have any orange peel or spider webs. I have even painted a few motorcycle's(black no less) with the Rustoleum and they came out looking good enough that people asked me who painted it? even got a few other paint jobs from one of them. Rattle cans can be trick though, need to make sure that you keep the tips clean, otherwise they will clog and not work well.
  14. Now, everything you said he makes perfect sense... And, I think the bottom line is NO ONE has ever cured a bad running motor by spraying carb cleaner into their carb. I have a Holley 1850 (650CFM) sitting on my 302 for over a year. I look forward to taking it apart and seeing what is gummed up. For what it is worth, my HONDA engine engineer says Chevron is used for their EPA and performance tests, but is not recommended for every day usage because they find it a little corrosive(especially for fuel injection). Once a month is adequate for taking advantage of their cleaning additive. I wouldn't say no one, cuz it can help, especially with a sticky throttle linkage. But I'd say that it's not a cure, just a little band aid. Yah, I hear you about corrosiveness, but again, that's what the additives combat. I just have had good luck with Chevron and 76. I think I have only had one bad gas episode with them. BP/Mobile probably 3 or 4, Circle k 2-3. I run Safeway or Costca gas in my truck(96F150) on and off and even after one tank full I can tell the difference in how it runs and it's a very good running truck. So I can only imagine if it was something less maintained. Let me know when your ready rebuild your 1850, I can walk you through it, it's a piece of cake. That's a 600cfm btw..Or better yet, drive it up here and I'll walk you though it in person with a glass of scotch in hand!:D
  15. More horsepower, better sound.. no advantage?????? :huh: You originall asked about backpressure. To set the record straight, ALL combustion engine require backpressure, ALL of them, not just Ford's. If there were no backpressure then the exhaust would just turbulantly exit, which would cause a decrease in horsepower at some point. This is why if you go open headers, you gain a little top end, but loose a little low end perfomance. Through exhaust pipes, too much back pressure it bad and not enough also has a negative effect, just the right amount is necessary. Don't believe me?? Ask Carroll Shelby!
  16. To answer your questions. YES YOU CAN! Jeffs on the money, but I would say for an air cleaner the 1000 and 2000 grit is a bit overkill, but that would make it come out perfect, just take a lot of time. For a little quicker, still effective method, I'd clean with degreaser, then soap and water, sand it down with some 180grit, then again with some 320, clean with soap(non detergent) and water again, then wipe down with some solvent that removes oil and wax, blow dry with air, then light primer coat, little more primer to cover, then base coat, cover coat, then final coat. Boom factory finish in a few hours time. Take your time, light it dry between coats and you are all good. Someone go check out Totalled's work and get back to us. And if his paint job looks great, we'll up his reputation by 6 points. Otherwise he is going to take a dump he will never forget. Sitting on a stand is pretty, but after 10,000-20K miles if you want it to still look that way, you must prep it properly before you shoot it, or over time, all that will start coming off like a dress on prom night!
  17. Welcome from Norcal!! Glad to have you aboard!
  18. The problem with spraying carb cleaner all over and in your carb and then running it is that all that crap that you just loosened up, is now going to be moved through the internal parts of the carb and also through your engine. Which then usually results in the need for a rebuild to get the stuff out of the internal ports. If you want to douse your carb with cleaner, I would recomend pulling it off the car first, spraying it liberally upside down so the gunk drains out, let it dry, do it again then out it back on. However, you still run the risk of lodging a little piece of something in some small port somewhere and clogging it up. Remember this is the lungs of your engine, you want them clean! The best way, is to take it apart, soak it in carb clean, scrub it with a wire brush, make sure to make all the valleys, ports and faces shinny and clean, then spray it with carb clean, then put some glasses on and blow it out with compressed air thoroughly and re assemble with new gaskets. Once a carb is rebuilt, then keeping up your fuel system will illiminate the accumaltion of any gunk. I do this by regular fuel filter changes, only using Super from Chevron or 76 and using a fuel cleaner regularly. I don't ever spray cleaner down the carb unless it's a car that is broke down, I am going to be rebuilding it, or I am checking for intake leaks. Just keep in mind that you are forcing that junk that has built up, down through your valves and into yout engine. The most important thing here is to be careful what you put in your tank and down your carb. Secondly, not all carb cleaners are the same and not all fuel additives are the same. Most fuel additives have some of octane boost in them. Good right? More octane = more go fast? The other problem is octane boosters will taint your plugs, you can always tell an engine has had some sort octane additive by tan orange or red chalky color in them. This is not good. Many plugs loose most of their potency once they are compromised. You have heard me say it before, so I apologize for my redundancy, but this is why I only use Redline SI-1 Complete Fuel System cleaner in my engines. You can dump a little shot every tank full or so, or dump the whole thing in, the results are only positive, no tainting of plugs. Also no octane boost, but if you want that, you'd be better off buying 5 gal of race gas and putting a little in here and there. This also works as a good wake up for your engine and air freshner for the rest of us that love the smell of racegas in the morning!
  19. Think I would find a new Mechanic:s Ditto!
  20. I had the same offer the other day from some guy with his girlfriend!! Around the same age..I smiled and told him that would be a good down payment! People don't know unless they know. And sometimes even then they don't know! 10 years ago, prices were so inflated that you could get $20K for a restored Mach in killer condition. I would be surprised if I could get $15k for mine today. That hurts since that's probably what I have into it! Well, that's when I stopped counting anyway and I still tell myself that's all I have in it! Not planning on selling anyway, so it is what it is I guess. 10K, 20K, or 5K, it's still mine and I love it! Have a great day and enjoy those fine rides!
  21. Just an update. I sprayed them with PB blaster, then let it sit. Came back an hour or so later and pulled them right out. Went to put the new ones in and wasn't able to slide them up, as the top of the new rubber with the slots had a closed off end. The only way I would be able to slide it up on the slots would be to make some incisions on the top and peel it back to slide it up. As I was kind of messing with it, I noteced the stainless piece moved a little. I gave it a little tug and it popped off. I was thinking, ohhh. that sucks, but then I sleeved the new rubber right on it nice and easy. I put some high strength epoxy on the inner edge and pinched the SST in just a hair, then pushed it back into place. Checked it 24 hrs later and it was really on there, so I left it. Did the same to the other side and it's good to go. Not that it matters for me since I'm done with it, but maybe for someone else reading the thread, how are you supposed to slide it off from the bottom and then slide it back up with the rubber piece having the top closed? Seems that it's designed to slide in from the top, either with the window off or the stainless trim off?
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