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Everything posted by guys72Mach1

  1. I was looking at replacing the rubber seal that between the 1/4 window and side window and it looks like it's pressed in between the inner and outer chrome piece. Has anyone done it before? Any special tool or way of doing it? Trying to get some insight before I prior it open with a screw driver and break something then have to go buy another one! Thanks! Guy
  2. Welcome from the West Coast!
  3. $800 is a good price for that work. There's a lot of labot there to tig all that. Fun work though. He probably won't change it for 2.5 or 3.0" as material costs are about the same, although the 3.0" is a bit more fussy. The X pipe really opens it up and gives it a real throaty sound. I didn't x it or put a crossover in mine, but I still may. I do like how they sound and perform. Custom built is the way to go though. Pre bent kits suck, all pre bent kits! I don't care who makes them or what car they are for Mustang, Vette, Ferrari. I've done alot, more then I can count and every single one was a pain in the neck and were a little off. Customers want what they want sometimes. But if I have done them from scratch, they would have all came out cleaner, it would have been an easier install and it they would have looked a lot more symetric, if I had bent them myself. Some people just want that complete Borla system, or whatever name brand you want to put in there?
  4. well my motor just dyno'd at 627hp and 640lbs of tq and revs to 7000rpms. i think i need the 3 inch, but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,i'm running 2.5 tails. Nice and very respectable!..I was being conservative in that hp range though. There is a calculation to it, back pressure vs flow or something of the sort and I think the border where it breaks is closer to 800-900hp. Maybe do some research on it, like Wolverine suggested. I am sure that Hot Rod or some published mag has worked it all out. Dude, that thing is sick! Very nice frame work.
  5. I ran a custom exhaust shop for many years and have done my own exhaust since I was able to buy my first beer! No offense to the 3" exhaust guys out there, but there really is no performance advantage to running the 3" as opposed to 2.5" unless you are pushing 600hp and you just want all out top end. There may even be a disadvantage due to the lack of backpressure. Exhaust flows just like water through a pipe, so the larger the pipe, the more free your exhaust will flow right? Well to a point, you need a little bit of restriction to help keep the pressure up and the air flowing smoothly. If you just want it really loud and you are not concerned with off the line or low end power and you have a bunch of room, then maybe 3" is the way to go. But for everyday running, clearance and performance, unless you have a diesel, in my experience 2.5" is a more then sufficient to get the job done, and maybe even be better.
  6. Saw this on a finished 72 the other day and it looked so clean and really brought the "blah" stock rearend out. I am really more into stock exteriors, but it looked so nice it made me wish that I had done it to mine before painting it. The Shelby tailights really go with the long wide rear end and look they were designed for that tailight panel. Think I like them better in a 71-73 then I do on all the other years! Nice job!
  7. If ther carb had gunk in it then it'd guarantee your filter does too. You should get some gas additive/valve cleaner, not Octane boost, but a gas additive to clean the valves, lines and carb. The best stuff on the market is made by Redline, SI-1 Valve Cleaner. Put the whole thing in the tank, change your fuel filter and drive it. I'd also put some new/more gas in as soon you can, some high octane Chevron or 76 is good. If you don't have access to Redline, the Chevron fuel additive works good and won't taint your spark plugs like a lot of additives will. Changing your filter is a must though. Good luck.
  8. weird, my rear tires always seem to wear out before the fronts too. Must be inherent to the Mustang design. Think I'll write a letter to Ford.. ================================ < POSI MARKS!
  9. Looks like you are missing something major on your parts list. BEER!! I agree with Mike & Turtle...WHEN you get pissed, just take a beer/whiskey break, both maybe needed! I have always done my own and saved a bunch of cash, but it can be tedious and physically difficult at times. I will say that these high backs were probably the hardest ones I have done. I stripped them down to the frames and started from there, just like we you are at. Lay them out in the sun and get them nice and hot before you even attempt to out them on or you will be killing yourself. I did mine in winter and it was a chore. At one point I put the covers in the oven for a few minutes then hurried to get them on. Make sure that onec you get them stretched and on, you get the corners secured, but before you put the other 20-30 on, bolt the seats together and make sure that your stitch lines all line up from the seat back to the bottom. Otherwise, you will be cutting the hog rings off and re positioning them to get them straight. From someone that has done it before that sucks! But when it comes out straight, it makes all the pain worth while. Best of luck!
  10. I have always dyed my panels and recently dyed my door pulls and panels from tan to black. Like any coating, you want to thoroughly clean the surface first, then hit it LIGHTLY with some fine sand paper, like 800 or 1000. Clean it again and then wipe it down with some tack cloth. Spray super light coats. I use Dupli-color Black gloss dye finish first to cover, then dust it over with the flat black dye that they make. It gives it a really nice OE finish that doesn't look painted on. Otherwise, the gloss is too shiny and the flat is to dull and shows scuffs easily. It's a weird format and usually you would apply flat first then gloss and I stumbled on it becasue I grabbed the wrong can a long time ago to put a final coat on. It came out so nice that I kept using the gloss first then final coat with the flat. They always last, but in the event they scatch, you can touch up easily. I'd take a picture, but you probably wouldn't be able to pick up the detail on camera. I'll check it out though and post it if it's visible.
  11. Same size all the way around is best for rotation for sure, but not always necessary. If the alignment is soild and air pressure is right, tire wear should be all good and swapping sides get's the job done. Not completly ideal, but I ain't looking to get 50K out of the tires anyway.
  12. The Petronices module/points swap is a great way to go and have used them for many years on other cars without any issue. On this build I went with the Flamethrower billet distributor swap in lieu of the keeping the Ford distro. While the performance is great, the distibutor is way taller then the factory one and I had to put a spacer under my air cleaner to get it to clear. In my haste to order it, there may be a lower profille one, and I just missed it, but some thing to keep in mind if you are getting he billet distro.
  13. Welcome from the West Coast! Nice stance on that beast, looks sweet!
  14. Yep, alternator spacer that goes between the block and alternator backing on the upper bolt.
  15. After dumping tons of time and cash into my engine, just so I can put the pummeling on some bow tie at will,(and put a smile on my face) I just can't bring myself to put 87 octane in the tank to save $5.15. Just the off chance that it may ping at 6,500 gives me the willies and makes me feel all cheap and dirty, like I need to go shower and get some counseling... but that's just me...
  16. I went with 15x7 in the front and 15x8 in the rear. 235/60R15 frt and 245/60R15 in the rears. My 72 is lowered about 2-3" so the 255 would have rubbed in the back. One thing to keep in mind with tires is that they are not all the same size even though they may be the same size.... Example...A 245/60R15 in a BF Goodrich has a lower sidewall and is wider than a 245/60R15 in a Firestone Firehawk. Not just that particular size, but across the entire product line. I like the low fat look, but that differs from the factory tall and wide, so it comes down to your visual preference and of course traction. Summit has the best deal, that I was able to find anyway on 500's. I paid $139ea for the Wheel Vintiques. They are close to me, so I got them next day for no xtra charge, so that's always a bonus.
  17. Welcome in from NorCal.. Watch out for that tailight panel, that was one of the hardest repairs I did on mine and I did some heavy fabrication! Take lots of reference measurements and pics before you remove the old one.
  18. Does anyone know what the short 6-8" interior trim piece that ties in the headliner and the gap between the 1/4 panel window is called, where I can get it or what it looks like? Any help would be appreciated. I was able to snap a shot of the piece(s) I am looking for. This was off of a coupe and I have a fastback, but the part looks like it is the same on both. Does anyone know where I can get these from? Thanks, Guy
  19. Hello and thanks everyone! Posted some shots.
  20. I just finished building a 351C 2V and wanted to build a motor that I could drive daily, but put my foot to the floor and leave 100' posi marks behind me at will! I didn't want to get crazy with a non streetable cam that wouldnt idle, but I wanted something with a long range that would launch good and still pull hard at 6K. I went with a Comp Cam with 520 lift, just at the border and Comp did not require screw in studs, so it saved a little coin there. I'll double check, but I think the RPM range is 2200-6,500rpm. Perfect for my 2,200 stall converter. I have used and built Holleys for years and performance and cost wise, there is no better carb in my opinion, then a Holley with Mechanical Secondaries. Barry Grant carbs are sweet too, but spendy! The Holley Dp mech secondaries give you instant hole shot at any speed, and you can really dial them in to fit your driving needs. The only issue that you just can't get away from is the richness at idle. You can lean them up as much as you want, but they double pumpers just run best rich at idle. I have a 4778 Holley(700cfm) and am still playing with jets, nozzles and settings, but so far it's a screamer and the little tweeks here and there are working nicely. I love the Edelbrock/Holley/Comp Cam combo. They really match up well, and if you need to get tech help, they are all good at helping out. I personally wanted a longer range and higher RPM since the 2V heads have so much top end, I wanted to exploit that, but also wanted a nice launch. So we went with the larger intake valves and the Edel. RPM Air Gap Manifold. First thing I do is scrap the exhaust manifolds and put headers on. You may have to turn the header bolts a 1/4-1/2 a turn every 5-10k, but so what, they make such a difference in flow and you can't beat the sound. They are well worth it. I have checked on many headers, from Hooker(made in Mexico now) to Motorsport, to Sanderson and for some reason Hedman fits the best and tuck up underneath the frame the tightest. They are also close to be the least expensive. There finish sucks, so I would recommend powder coating them before you install them, but other then that they are a breeze to work with and they don't hit on anything. For mufflers, I went with Spintechs. I used to run a custom exhaust shop and stumbled across these years ago. For some reason these sound the best on Fords and they really sound good. The closest I can explain the sound, is like a Borla high rpm crisp and clean sound under load, then at idle, just a real nice rumble without the nasty resonation like you get froma Flowmaster, or other 2 or 3 chamber mufflers. I will never put any other muffler on a Ford other then a Spintech, they are just so unique. I get comments almost everytime I am sitting at idle from people asking what I have under the hood, thinking it's a pumped 429 or something stroked and crazy. Anyway... some free useless advise to do with what you please..
  21. Just completed a 5 year ground up build of my 72 Mach 1, 351C 2V, all numbers matching. Have had many Mustangs, but this one is by far my favorite to drive and has the most blood, sweat and $$$ in it! I spent 2 years removing any trace of rust before I started working on the mechanical end of it. Going over it with a fine tooth comb now. Hope you enjoy the pics as much as I enjoy driving it! 1972 Mach 1 351C .40 over forged flat top pistons .520 Comp Cam Bunch of other engine goodies Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Intake Holley 700 DP, mech secondaries Hedman Headers Petronix Billet HEI distro FMX with Stage II shift kit and 2200 stall
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