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About griffbl

  • Birthday 07/22/1960

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    1972 Mustang Mach 1
    2014 Ford F150
    2018 Porsche Panamera

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  1. After 50 years it could be a million things causing the height to be slightly different side to side…..if you get it close, like 1/2” (your number may be different)or so or less no one will know save for yourself :) Some say that after 50 years the torque that is applied from one side of the car vs another will cause the chassis or other suspension related parts to take “a set” or bend a bit……so it can and could be a myriad of things. Agreed that air shocks are really a last resort as they really throw something of a wrench 🔧 into the works as to how your springs actually do their job. My rear springs came from EATON. The front springs were on back order for months….so I went with some 600 pound springs from Scott Drake which have worked wonderfully on a bunch of cars for me (springs for this year model but NOT as specific as they would have been via Eaton to be sure:)) I will post pics when completed. Also my front springs needed new perches which I replaced. Best, Brad
  2. T This is exactly that: an AMK concours Starter Solenoid, NIB, I had lying around from a 65' build. Your reply is EXACTLY the perfect explanation. NEVER dreamed that could happen. Now it makes sense. Car kind of acts like it cooked either my ignition switch, or the battery is just that gone. I will attempt to charge the battery, and replace the solenoid, AGAIN, tomorrow. Thank you so much for the help!
  3. Well, took the old Mach 1 out for a late night spin and, well, not good. Car died while approaching an intersection. Kind of like all at once. Felt electrical in nature. Engine would NOT turn over. Dead. Headlights on. Interior lights on. After a tow (never fun) I got her home. I had a new quality Solenoid, which I had been meaning to install, and just did so. I didn't think that would fix it, but it needed doing. Voltage regulator is waiting for me at parts shop. That is next. Car does not turn over...just click click click. Battery is a Duralast from 5/18. Interior lights are bright. Just took my battery tester / charger to another place, so I placed a slow charger on it just to make sure it is at full charge. Battery terminals exceptionally clean. Now after charging, plenty of juice at starter....it started right up, but starter continued running after i returned the key to the off position, along with the engine. I can't believe i didn't install the Solenoid EXACTLY as before, so I will check again. Any suggestions much appreciated! I will be updating the terrible looking battery cables and alternator harness soon! I just want to get running in the interim.... Brad
  4. Thanks Tim. I now see that the diameter of the hole in the Shock tower cap is less than the 1.25" OD of the bushings, so I will remove them as you describe to get both upper bushings installed for each side for the front shocks. Thanks again, Brad
  5. Thank you again for the link, as my auto parts stores, being autozone who said they could order them, but O'Reilly's said they did not have them were no help. I will pick them up at Summit tomorrow. Great price. THANK YOU AGAIN SO MUCH FOR THE LINK TO THE RIGHT PRODUCT AT THE RIGHT PRICE! Any tips on how to install these anybody?? Do I have to pull the shock tower caps? Best, Brad
  6. I need them for a fastback.....I bought a pair on eBay but let me know if you have them and if so how much. Thanks so much! I would much prefer to buy from you again. Best, Brad
  7. thanks for the repsonse, the suggestion and the link. I am glad these are black. If my new shocks are delayed these are cheap enough to use as a stop gap until the new ones arrive. Best, Brad
  8. it is not at all urgent...i was curious as to price, and shipping, but mine really doesn't look that bad. the holes won't get wet as it is always garaged, and I will repair it when i do other body work...but i thought it might be a good option as you suggested. Best, Brad
  9. Thanks David...I sent you a note as to the Deck lid also! I alway liked the 14" forged aluminum wheels which were available on the 73's!
  10. I have new shocks and springs on the way.....I have been trying to defeat some rattles, which are too numerous today. I think I found another. The Rubber isolators on the front shocks have decayed and the driver's side does not actually seem to be supported at this point! When I push on the fender, I can see the shock is no longer secured to set shock tower cap. I guess the rubber cracks out, and the diameter reduces to the point that it simply passes up and down through the hole in the shock tower cap. Just curious, are the rubber bushings / shock hardware available without shocks by any vendors? I am glad those springs and shocks are on the way....Some shocks do not seem to have rubber nearly so large as were these originally....After looking at this some more, I think I much prefer the way Shocks on 65-70' Mustangs attach at the top. Seems much more secure? Thanks!
  11. Like any little job, it would be easier the second time! But not much to it. Was lucky Motor City Mustang had the pieces I needed! Little by Little, My High School Mach 1 is coming along! Brad
  12. Thanks for the tip! I will try that next time on similar situations. Best, Brad
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