Jeff73Mach1

painter's tape if it bothers you, don't worry about it if it doesn't Just don't leave it on for more than a day or two or it will become harder to remove. As with everything, some brands work better than others

double and triple check your gasket numbers, they should not be that sloppy in fitment. I've seen poor fit before though. I half way am tempted to make my own with gasket maker like is done with intake gaskets on the front and rear

Nice big sunroof! I'm light sensitive so it is not my cup of tea, but it is cool. Keep some 70-80's vintage rims and tires on it and let it be what it is. You can't make everybody happy so choose who matters-you.

Replace that hose clamp on your positive cable with a proper end-it will eventually give you trouble

Not near enough It was a bang and a thump 100 yards from my destination. Glad I walked back and found the part or the block would be a total loss. Either way I'll pick the bast block I have and have it machined 95% to keep as a spare. I am building the 29's engine, but the block is at the machinist for the 1 piece rear main seal conversion until August-I might use that block as I have already done the oil restriction mods and reamed the lifter bores for sleeves. Waiting for the final cleaning until all is done. The Wydendorf kit worked well for reaming them out and was less time consuming than expected. I guess the good thing is that I actually like building engines, just wish it was a little less expensive sometimes.

I have found a machinist that can do the repair, but he is at least a month out. Plenty of time to pull the engine. In the meantime I'm going to look at my two spare blocks and see which one looks like the best candidate for the job. one is a DOAE-j and the other is the more common D2. Have to pull the pans and see if either is a 4 bolt main, but if not a 2 bolt is just as strong. Both turn freely and one is a short block with good looking bores, the other is a complete engine in which I expect to find a mouses nest in the # 4 cylinder as it felt spongy when turning over and there was some nesting material in the bellhousing and the end of the exhaust manifold on the passenger side. Now a teaser for something different My chopped to 29 with an engine in the proper location (but lower than it will actually sit by about 6 inches)

I took my car for a short drive Friday and heard a bang and something bounce off the underside of my car. Stopped and went into the street to see what it was. Found that I had broken the corner off of the block above the starter right through the dowel pin hole. I am fairly confident that it can be welded up by the right person and I have found someone that is reputed to be very good at this repair. Luckily he is friends with 2 of my friends. Unfortunately he is backed up 3 weeks and then going on vacation, so it looks like the summer is over for driving my Mach 1. Why did it break? Well I have 2 theories which I think explain it. 1) During the machining of the block, it had to go back when it turned out that it needed to be line honed. While loading it, I fell and the block hit the ground. There was no visible damage, but I suspect it was damaged then. 2) The lower bolt for the bellhousing was not there when it failed. It was there, but somehow it was not when the failure happened. Perhaps not properly torqued? Anyway, what is done is done and if it can't be fixed, I have 2 more blocks to work with and have machined to fit my rotating assembly.

Tommy makes a good point, what rpm is the engine idling at?

Unless you make a hard pull and shut the engine off immediately, plug reading is not as accurate. I believe the soot is from running cold with the choke on and the white is from it running a little lean after the choke comes off. I'd probably increase the jet size in the secondarys and lighten up the tension on the choke if you have one.

the reality is it doesn't restrict flow ans the bottom of the port doesn't flow well and creates a lot of turbulence. Now if you put a huge cam and high compression slugs in the engine, then that extra space can be used above 3500 rpm, but on a stockis to 350-400 hp motor, it is just dead space

My stimulus check was $4.40. I can buy 1/2 gallon of avgas

Yes, they advise their shaft is incompatible, but that they are working to have a gear made, just no particular time frame. It could be possible that with a bit of machining it could be done, but that is too much money to spend on a maybe.

I spoke with them about whether or not the gear could be replaced with a bronze gear for my solid roller cam and they cannot, nor will an aftermarket gear fit. I'll have to wait until I need another distributor for a milder engine build I am in the middle of at this time. They were responsive and knowledgeable and hope to be adding a bronze gear option in the future, but no idea as to when.

So fuel system was a bit more challenging than anticipated, but it is done and the battery is relocated. Tuesday night I looked at my work and decided that the bulkhead fitting was just too close to the exhaust and rear tire, so I got up early and redid it yesterday when I relocated it to the front center of the tank and reran the lines to the front. I put a 90 Degree fitting in the extra hole and capped it with it pointing straight up. Midlife helped me with an electrical issue and I'll put the seats back in tonight and be ready to test drive this weekend. When I get it on a lift and do some final finish work, I'll try and get some more pictures. Then on to tuning this pig rich carb

This is really cool. I don't think the price is out of line at all and may give one a try if they can use a proper gear for my solid roller cam.