Jeff73Mach1

Some progress, but no pictures yet. Cleaned the shop enough to move the body off the frame and stand it on it's nose. Pulled the vette suspension last weekend, have looked it over, taken measurements and have a plan. Next step is to strip the front suspension down to the cradle and start making it fit the frame. Also tore the heads off of 2 351 engines-one looks good, the other looks like the block might clean up to .030 over. I've got my engine built, but one stripped block will be for mock up, and one will go to the machinist to be checked out and prepared as a back up. I'll try an

Well 8 years later they work great...wish I was as durable

are you running vacuum advance? Manifold or ported vacuum? Do you have a choke on the carb, is it fully disengaging before you do your adjustments? Who is your favorite Playmate from 1981?

Don is the man! Not only is he a great source for parts, the insults he pm's me (tongue in cheek of course) make me laugh my ass off.

I probably do. I have several I have pulled and stored. Will be Sunday before I can check 2 of them, but one is at home where I can access it easily

I have a bad habit of walking into front tires when working with a vehicle on the lift. It doesn't happen often, but I've nearly knocked myself out twice over the years in front of the same witness.

Coating place will sandblast, but what will be left? If you want to clean them up yourself get a concrete mixing tub at lowe's or Home depot or whatever version is near you. Should be large enough to put the headers in. Buy a gallon or two of phosphoric acid . you'll now have spent about 50 bucks this stuff is what I have used https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-Gal-Concrete-Etch-Metal-Prep-Rust-Inhibitor-GKPA30220/100406369?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US https://www.homedepot.com/p/Large-Mixing-Tub-26101/301943160?g_store=778&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&a

Man I wish this thread was still active and that we could see the car. . . .

I have a new jig built frame of rectangular tubing tapered to mimic the frame horns in the front. I've done a retrofit of a c4 into a 56 ford, so measuring 100 times before the welding is de rigueur I haven't installed a c4 rear suspension, but it looks pretty straight forward. My progress will be slow as I keep it at a buddys shop that is a hour round trip, so I rarely work on it more than 2 days a week

I use my hoist around the shop for moving a lot more than just engines. (You ever try and move a cast iron powerglide?) So in a moment of clarity I decided that I would convert my hoist to air over hydraulic operation. It could not be easier, two bolts, it dropped in perfectly and it works great. I got the ram through Northern tool https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200641740_200641740?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive > Jacks&utm_campaign=Strongway&utm_content=46200&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnqH7BRDdARIsACTSAdvNlwl_ElNoINEWoD6emy

Thank you. Modification is much easier than restoration. No need for perfection or using hard to find parts. Look forward to sharing more pics, sorry you cannot see this one, cause the work on the body so far is nothing short of amazing.

This is how I intend to mount the rear, though I will fabricate my own brackets and try and keep the sway bar and everything will be welded not bolted to the frame.

If you saw my lifter bushing threads, you might know I am building a Model A Tudor Not sure if anyone would like to follow a build thread on the chassis. I have a frame built and am getting ready to start fitting a 1990 Corvette front and rear suspension this fall. The intention is to run a 351 with a Torino Toploader and to use the corvette steering column and wheels. (If I can rewire the column...) I stripped the corvette suspension out last night and will be getting started soon. Roofline is chopped, roof panel has been created out of a van roof so it is not open anymor

4.5 leaf springs would be my choice. (I have 5 leafs and they are stiff and can be punishing) I concur that what you feel may be a locker rear end where the spider gears are welded, but it also might be the front spring bushings being shot allowing the rear end to move laterally. Your plan is reasonable as all will need to be done at some point anyway. If it is a Traclock rear end the clutch pack may need to be rebuilt. If you can pull a chunk, the next steps aren't bad at all.

I may have one, I'll look tonight