Jeff73Mach1

Looks more like a Panstang to me. Great work!

Sorry I am not posting on this build yet. Just got back from the shop a little while ago. Engine is built, engine mounts are tack welded in place, transmission needs to be rebuilt, I'll tackle that soon, front suspension is hung, but need to make shock mounts, rear suspension has been mocked up, I just removed it today to finish weld some brackets. Have the transmission crossmember fabricated, just need to sleeve a couple of holes in the frame for mounting. Drive shaft will be about 20 inches long lol, thankfully with IRS that won't be a problem. Took body down off its nose and pu

So progress was slow as I left my job at the end of last year and opened my own office. Started back to it recently. Front cradle is mounted, I have a friend narrowing the batwing, so I can hang it inside the frame rails. Radiator just arrived yesterday and firewall is in the trunk of my car to go to the shop. Engine build is done except for hanging accessories and the intake manifold, still debating on whether or not to run dual quads. As to the frame, it is a new frame with a lot of bracing added in the center and once everything is mocked up next time I will determine what add

I have several blocks in good shape here in Tennessee. I've bought two engines and one shortblock over the last few years. I've bought a machined block for as little as 300.00 at .030 over. I bought a complete short block for less than that and a complete engine and transmission for a hundred or so more. 2 bolt blocks are the most common-nothing wrong with them at all.

I have to pull my engine and either repair or replace the block. While I am at it, I am going to put a spare engine in, but decided it would be a good time to take care of a few things. I am going to convert to a hydraulic clutch, remove the brake booster and convert to manual brakes. If anyone has used aftermarket brake pedals, I'd be most appreciative of any information regarding which pedals you used. Anyone that converted to a hydraulic throw out bearing. . . same deal. Thanks all!

3K yes, 5K I don't think so, but maybe for the right person

Off the starter relay, you'll find the fusable link- IIRC it is yellow. You may have to open up the wiring bundle to follow it, but typically, they burn through inside the wire casing leaving a soft spot. You can buy replacement fusible link wire, make sure it is the same gauge and cut back the original and use a good butt connector to crimp the replacement on. Usually when they fail, it is sudden and complete, but I have had one short intermittently for a few drives before it failed.

Sold

I wouldn't trust a 1000.00 lift either, I put in an Atlas 11000 two post in the shop I work out of and I think it was about 2200.00 bucks delivered to a freight depot. Install was not as hard as you might think. I was thinking of a different portable jack system. That price is pretty good

How much space do you have? A traditional 2 post lift is much cheaper.

I'll try to get to the photos and inspection this evening and post my findings and photos here. I can ship on your dime (In fact it is currently boxed and ready to ship as I received it and never pulled it out completely. ) I don't even recall the color LOL

IDK if the 73 column interchanges with the 71-72- i know the ignition switch is different, not sure what would be involved to change either over to the other. I'll pull it out this weekend and get photos and do a full inspection of it.

I bought one several years back and stashed it in my parts storage. If someone is interested I'll pull it, photo it and set a price.

Slightly off topic, but how do I get these housecats to stay out of my yard? David, can you help? :D

I probably would too, but the actual work isn't too bad. As long as there is no damage to address it is mostly a lot of careful cleaning before reassembly