Jeff73Mach1

I have the bellhousing but no plate. Factory plate is too small to bolt to bottom so I need this part to use the bellhousing and I cannot find it available anywhere. If you have one for sale let me know!

slowly making progress, sorry for the lack of photos, but I hope to have enough progress done to start posting some soon. Looks like I'm going to relocate the engine forward 3 or 4 inches. lift has been tied up for the last few months so it is making it harder for me to lift the body up onto the body cart. If I had some help I could do it by hand, but I'm too weak to lift the body 3 feet by myself. Maybe I'll have some wheaties this weekend and try it

Looks more like a Panstang to me. Great work!

Sorry I am not posting on this build yet. Just got back from the shop a little while ago. Engine is built, engine mounts are tack welded in place, transmission needs to be rebuilt, I'll tackle that soon, front suspension is hung, but need to make shock mounts, rear suspension has been mocked up, I just removed it today to finish weld some brackets. Have the transmission crossmember fabricated, just need to sleeve a couple of holes in the frame for mounting. Drive shaft will be about 20 inches long lol, thankfully with IRS that won't be a problem. Took body down off its nose and put it on dollies to allow me to start on rebuilding some wood and brought home a trunk load of inner body braces, dash panel etc, that need cleaning up. I have a good friend and I work out of his shop. He has helped with the chassis set up and does all the welding cause he can and I can't. Unfortunately he is in the hospital with an infection and is likely to lose a toe Monday- so I'm changing the build order a bit and going over to the body for a while. Its about 90% done exterior though there are some surface rust spots I need to work on and one small crease in the cowl, but the interior is bare and the underside of the roof panel that was welded in (off a van) is a little rusty in the back, so lucks me, I get to sand and sand and sand a little more before I start the real sanding. So. . . should I make the rear windows electric, sliding or fixed?

So progress was slow as I left my job at the end of last year and opened my own office. Started back to it recently. Front cradle is mounted, I have a friend narrowing the batwing, so I can hang it inside the frame rails. Radiator just arrived yesterday and firewall is in the trunk of my car to go to the shop. Engine build is done except for hanging accessories and the intake manifold, still debating on whether or not to run dual quads. As to the frame, it is a new frame with a lot of bracing added in the center and once everything is mocked up next time I will determine what additional bracing I can add. One part I both dread and look forward to at the same time is rebuilding the wood frame inside the car. I have about 1/3 of the parts, but complete wood kits are way too expensive.

I have several blocks in good shape here in Tennessee. I've bought two engines and one shortblock over the last few years. I've bought a machined block for as little as 300.00 at .030 over. I bought a complete short block for less than that and a complete engine and transmission for a hundred or so more. 2 bolt blocks are the most common-nothing wrong with them at all.

I have to pull my engine and either repair or replace the block. While I am at it, I am going to put a spare engine in, but decided it would be a good time to take care of a few things. I am going to convert to a hydraulic clutch, remove the brake booster and convert to manual brakes. If anyone has used aftermarket brake pedals, I'd be most appreciative of any information regarding which pedals you used. Anyone that converted to a hydraulic throw out bearing. . . same deal. Thanks all!

3K yes, 5K I don't think so, but maybe for the right person

Off the starter relay, you'll find the fusable link- IIRC it is yellow. You may have to open up the wiring bundle to follow it, but typically, they burn through inside the wire casing leaving a soft spot. You can buy replacement fusible link wire, make sure it is the same gauge and cut back the original and use a good butt connector to crimp the replacement on. Usually when they fail, it is sudden and complete, but I have had one short intermittently for a few drives before it failed.

Sold

I wouldn't trust a 1000.00 lift either, I put in an Atlas 11000 two post in the shop I work out of and I think it was about 2200.00 bucks delivered to a freight depot. Install was not as hard as you might think. I was thinking of a different portable jack system. That price is pretty good

How much space do you have? A traditional 2 post lift is much cheaper.

I'll try to get to the photos and inspection this evening and post my findings and photos here. I can ship on your dime (In fact it is currently boxed and ready to ship as I received it and never pulled it out completely. ) I don't even recall the color LOL

IDK if the 73 column interchanges with the 71-72- i know the ignition switch is different, not sure what would be involved to change either over to the other. I'll pull it out this weekend and get photos and do a full inspection of it.

I bought one several years back and stashed it in my parts storage. If someone is interested I'll pull it, photo it and set a price.

Slightly off topic, but how do I get these housecats to stay out of my yard? David, can you help? :D

I probably would too, but the actual work isn't too bad. As long as there is no damage to address it is mostly a lot of careful cleaning before reassembly

Head gaskets are not hard to swap. I can do a pair in the car in under 3 hours. Valve adjustment is a little time consuming.

We put the radiator for a frineds vehicle in the trunk and used exhaust pipe to run the water lines. You want to try and get air out of a system, that one will give you nightmares.

I'm late to the party, so please forgive me if this has been mentioned. Have you replaced your Radiator cap? Radiators rely upon pressure to assist in the cooling process. If it is older, it may be time for a fresh cap. Lower hoses shound have springs in them to prevent collapse. If this is occurring, nothing but a new hose will fix the system. As to the remaining gunk in your coolant, I would flush the system repeatedly with clean water until it drains clean then flush with a few gallons of distilled water before refilling it with the proper coolant/mix. Pure anti freeze doesn't cool as well as a 50-50 mix (unless you are using one of the modern prediluted mixtures.) I'm running a close to 600 HP 393 stroker bored 30 over with a high volume water pump and a griffin aluminum radiator and I have not experienced the heating issues you have . . . and I have AC on the car. After filling a cooling system, it should puke once or twice down to the proper level, it is the repeated puking that would worry me. I've never bothered with the exhaust crossovers on an aftermarket intake-it seems to be unnecessary

having a air chisel is helpful, a sawzall is almost certainly necessary. Patience helps. All in all it is still better than changing the front rubber bushings in existing springs

I prefer the indecent strippers myself

Buy some good quality crimpers and strippers (I love good strippers) and a very good soldering iron, they will make your life easier and allow you to turn out a better product.

Good luck. While tedious, I have no doubt you can do a great job with it.

Check the wire that is a fusable link coming off the starter relay/solenoid, it may be shorting out. I would also check your grounds esp your ignition grounds