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Jeff73Mach1

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Everything posted by Jeff73Mach1

  1. Jeff73Mach1
    3K yes, 5K I don't think so, but maybe for the right person
  2. Jeff73Mach1
    Off the starter relay, you'll find the fusable link- IIRC it is yellow. You may have to open up the wiring bundle to follow it, but typically, they burn through inside the wire casing leaving a soft spot. You can buy replacement fusible link wire, make sure it is the same gauge and cut back the original and use a good butt connector to crimp the replacement on. Usually when they fail, it is sudden and complete, but I have had one short intermittently for a few drives before it failed.
  3. Jeff73Mach1
    Sold
  4. Jeff73Mach1
    I wouldn't trust a 1000.00 lift either, I put in an Atlas 11000 two post in the shop I work out of and I think it was about 2200.00 bucks delivered to a freight depot. Install was not as hard as you might think. I was thinking of a different portable jack system. That price is pretty good
  5. Jeff73Mach1
    How much space do you have? A traditional 2 post lift is much cheaper.
  6. Jeff73Mach1
    I'll try to get to the photos and inspection this evening and post my findings and photos here. I can ship on your dime (In fact it is currently boxed and ready to ship as I received it and never pulled it out completely. ) I don't even recall the color LOL
  7. Jeff73Mach1
    IDK if the 73 column interchanges with the 71-72- i know the ignition switch is different, not sure what would be involved to change either over to the other. I'll pull it out this weekend and get photos and do a full inspection of it.
  8. Jeff73Mach1
    I bought one several years back and stashed it in my parts storage. If someone is interested I'll pull it, photo it and set a price.
  9. Jeff73Mach1
    Slightly off topic, but how do I get these housecats to stay out of my yard? David, can you help? :D
  10. Jeff73Mach1
    I probably would too, but the actual work isn't too bad. As long as there is no damage to address it is mostly a lot of careful cleaning before reassembly
  11. Jeff73Mach1
    Head gaskets are not hard to swap. I can do a pair in the car in under 3 hours. Valve adjustment is a little time consuming.
  12. Jeff73Mach1
    We put the radiator for a frineds vehicle in the trunk and used exhaust pipe to run the water lines. You want to try and get air out of a system, that one will give you nightmares.
  13. Jeff73Mach1
    I'm late to the party, so please forgive me if this has been mentioned. Have you replaced your Radiator cap? Radiators rely upon pressure to assist in the cooling process. If it is older, it may be time for a fresh cap. Lower hoses shound have springs in them to prevent collapse. If this is occurring, nothing but a new hose will fix the system. As to the remaining gunk in your coolant, I would flush the system repeatedly with clean water until it drains clean then flush with a few gallons of distilled water before refilling it with the proper coolant/mix. Pure anti freeze doesn
  14. Jeff73Mach1
    having a air chisel is helpful, a sawzall is almost certainly necessary. Patience helps. All in all it is still better than changing the front rubber bushings in existing springs
  15. Jeff73Mach1
    I prefer the indecent strippers myself
  16. Jeff73Mach1
    Buy some good quality crimpers and strippers (I love good strippers) and a very good soldering iron, they will make your life easier and allow you to turn out a better product.
  17. Jeff73Mach1
    Good luck. While tedious, I have no doubt you can do a great job with it.
  18. Jeff73Mach1
    Check the wire that is a fusable link coming off the starter relay/solenoid, it may be shorting out. I would also check your grounds esp your ignition grounds
  19. Jeff73Mach1
    In the process of doing the same with Hagerty's. their online quote and application process is easy, their rates are very good, liability and UM/UIM coverage, along with deductibles are something you choose and the prices are marked so you know what you are paying and or adding to the quote. As to their claims handling, not a clue
  20. Jeff73Mach1
    I pulled mine recently, I threw a rope over the ceiling joists and tied it to the hood latch, pulled it snug and tied it off, laid cardboard over the fenders and windshield, unbolted the hood, set it on the cardboard in front of the hinges and pulled the rope tight enough to start moving the hood forward, then lifted the back and walked it forward to where is would hang safely. Not hard, I'm guessing if I could do it alone, any of you can.,
  21. Jeff73Mach1
    Thank you for your observations. I'll factor that into my design.
  22. Jeff73Mach1
    Some progress, but no pictures yet. Cleaned the shop enough to move the body off the frame and stand it on it's nose. Pulled the vette suspension last weekend, have looked it over, taken measurements and have a plan. Next step is to strip the front suspension down to the cradle and start making it fit the frame. Also tore the heads off of 2 351 engines-one looks good, the other looks like the block might clean up to .030 over. I've got my engine built, but one stripped block will be for mock up, and one will go to the machinist to be checked out and prepared as a back up. I'll try an
  23. Jeff73Mach1
    Well 8 years later they work great...wish I was as durable
  24. Jeff73Mach1
    are you running vacuum advance? Manifold or ported vacuum? Do you have a choke on the carb, is it fully disengaging before you do your adjustments? Who is your favorite Playmate from 1981?
  25. Jeff73Mach1
    Don is the man! Not only is he a great source for parts, the insults he pm's me (tongue in cheek of course) make me laugh my ass off.

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