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Justin71 last won the day on March 28 2016

Justin71 had the most liked content!

About Justin71

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Coupe. 302 2V - C4 trans


  • Location
    Near Houston, TX
  • Region
    Not Selected

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  1. Gents! I just picked up a calendar today. Lulu sent me a code for 20% off: BCP2019 So if you want one of these, use this code! Not sure how long it will be good.
  2. I'm not sure I see the same thing. I also believe the hash marks are 2deg increments. On the right hand side of the image, I see another 10 deg mark (had to zoom in to see) but I interpret this position to be 10 degs below TDC... Looks to me like the marker is directly over the 10 BTDC mark. This would be consistent with 2deg increments on the smallest hash marks. Really suggest you get clearer readings on the damper before proceeding.
  3. Alright. It's that time of year again. Someone tell me we have a Mustang Babes calendar coming for 2018....
  4. Damn it. I'm still stuck on Nov 2016, a tremendous month of last year.... Now WTH am I gonna do? Can't stay stuck there forever.. Gotta find some pin-up girls for the shop someehere...
  5. I used these same guys for a dual system with H-pipe on a 302 69 coupe. Fantastic fit. I would say that the mufflers are a tad on the quiet side, but the exhaust system was just fantastic. Highly recommend them. There was not a huge cost to ship, and I even live in TX. So, I had an excellent experience with them.
  6. Thanks for the help guys. No more evidence yet as I keep experimenting. These problems that pop up randomly are slow to troubleshoot!
  7. Hey guys. It's been awhile from me on this topic, but I am nearing a complete rebuild, and I have a new recommended option for cleaning up bolts. it takes a day or two and involves the rock tumbler, but I have found a simpler easier method. Before I was recommending use of grit and water in a rock tumbler. The method worked well, but I found use of the grit to be "kind of a pain". I had to spend time rinsing.... and trying to "save the grit for another use" etc. I felt like it was a necessary thing to get the small spaces clean, but I have found something easier and likely better. Dawn dishwashing soap. I guess I finally got sick enough of having to clean the grit etc, that at some point I just decided to throw a couple handful of rusty bolts and clips in the tumbler half full with water and a ~teaspoon of dawn dishwashing liquid. This works GREAT. It shocked me how fantastic the bolts came out. They'll get 90% clean in 24hrs in the tumbler, but if you can wait another day, they get noticeably better. The nuts bolts almost come out with a polished look.. Shiny metal, and a beautiful finish. Turns out that the bolts, nuts and clips tumbling against one another is plenty to clean crevices and tight spaces. The Dawn soap is surprisingly good against any kind of grease, and the bolt on bolt action is sufficient to remove not just grease, but paint as well. I have had some "gold color" bolts and washers, and after 2 days this finish (probably electroplating) is removed as well. It has surprised me how well this simple method works... but it does take time and you have to have a good tumbler. I found my tumbler or amazon for about $75. I would estimate that it does a full rotation of the bin about once every 2 seconds or so. When the bolts come out i rinse them thoroughly in fresh water (the water coming out of the tumbler bin is black as tar usually), and I immediately place them on a heat tolerant surface, and get them really hot using my heat gun. This removes all water molecules from the surface, and prevents the items from rusting immediately - as they would otherwise do. I put them in a labeled ziplock baggy after that, and they stay in good shape for many weeks (even in a humid environment) Pic attached of some body bolts and nut-plates (you know how rusty and nasty these get right?): I need to find a simple chemical dip to put them in after this to get a fake "black oxide" or other surface passivation coating that doesn't take any effort. Hope you guys - that move slowly like I do - can take advantage of this simple tip to clean old bolts. 95% of them are in amazing shape and don't need to be replaced. Jay Estes
  8. Well it seems the old girl is "powering down" on me occasionally now. Has happened 3x now while driving. At low-speed or idle, but in-gear. Car is C4 auto trans. Symptom is complete power outage. Engine immediately quits, radio, lights, other internal electrical also go out. In all cases, after a few mins (usually including several shifts of the gear selector trying to get it restarted), everything comes back and behaves normally. I'm wondering if this could be NSS related? Car is known to have occasional issue where shifter needs to be pushed full fwd to get NSS lockout to allow starting. Q's: 1) Can NSS this be the issue? Situation occcurs in Drive most frequently 2) What else can cause a fully recoverable power outage like that? Thanks in advance for some guidance/help here... Jay
  9. Ran into a gentleman today in town that had a nice dark green driver 73. He was unhappy about the 73 bumper and wanted to replace it with a chrome bumper. I am bumping this to the front of the list so that if the guy makes it to this site per my recommendation, he'll be able to find this thread.... Jay (Friendswood, TX
  10. Great feedback- It would be cool to have more tech info. If you pay for the "fully custom order" ($80) you caould probably have him add any of the info or styling you like....
  11. I just heard of this artist on the 69stang forum. The artist will create a custom "blueprint" of your car. $80 for a custom (basically whatever you want on there, you can send him specs, pics etc), but he will do a "standard" year for $25 or so. Blueprints are 18x24in, and look pretty nice. Electronic download, you print yours at a local shop. I'm getting a custom one done for a buddy who has a 55 packard patrician, but I haven't seen the results yet. the guys on the 69 forum said it was a great product. You can look at the 1969 standard print here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/385614510/1969-ford-mustang-blueprint-poster-18x24?ref=shop_home_active_3 Just wanted to offer it up in case some of you guys decide you want to get some of the 71-73 mustangs in the artists inventory. Sure seems like we need them in there! Jay
  12. Here is some hopefully helpful info. I rebuilt my proportioning valve (been thru this stuff with 2 cars - a 71 & the other a 69), and I would say one thing that may have been missed above is that the plastic sensor switch that is in the prop valve should not be exposed to fluid. If fluid is coming out of the sensor switch, this means that there is a fixable, but internal leak in the prop valve. There is a "shuttle valve" inside that moves back and forth if the front & rear hydraulic chambers are not producing balanced hydraulic pressure (note that bleeding brakes and not using a centering tool will also move the shuttle valve to one side). This shuttle valve has seals that should prevent fluid from entering the cavity where the switch is operating - even if one chamber has failed and the valve moves all the way to one side. So, if fluid is coming out of your switch, it's time to pull the prop valve, get a rebuild kit from musclecarresearch.com, and rebuild it. Most of these prop valves are completely rebuildable, and the kits are like $25 with great instructions. (Find out if your switch is good or not and if it comes with prop valve if you buy one because the sensor switches are like $25 each also) I had a "hard luck day" rebuilding my prop valve which is documented here: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-rear-brake-issues-don-t-let-this-happen-to-you Maybe there is some help in that if you can get thru reading it all. The other leaks you mention are probably from the new lines. Fortunately, you bought OEM steel & not stainless as stainless is hard to get seated properly (mentioned above), but since they are new you are likely facing issues that the flares aren't seating properly because they are new. Loosen and retighten, maybe several times, but don't overtighten, as you can damage the line and or the seat. I would inspect the flares for splits like mentioned above, as no amount of tightening will ever seal a split. Good luck!
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