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Tnfastbk

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Everything posted by Tnfastbk

  1. From an article I found. The choice is always yours. Are forged cranks necessary in performance engines? Yes they are in many incidences. Forged steel cranks are the way to go if you're building a hot street performance, or an all out racing engine. Many factory engines came with forged cranks. The stock small journal 327's and 283's ALL had forged steel cranks. Some of the early high performance small block Chevys such as the 67 & 68 Z/28's with the 302's, and 350's such as the 370 HP LT-1's came with forged cranks as well. So did some truck versions of the 350's. Ford did the same thing with the BOSS 302, an engine rated at 290 HP, as well as a couple of others. Yes, they obviously made more than the rated 290 HP (which was for insurance reasons), but they weren't making 400 HP like most basic performance engines of these days exceed, and sometimes by far. If they thought a cast iron crank would hold-up to less than 400 HP, or the abuse of a 4 speed manual transmission, don't you think they would have tried saving money instead of installing a more expensive forged crank? On top of this, most of the engines I mentioned also came with forged pistons, so even GM & Ford thought an all forged rotating assembly was necessary in factory engines that made less than 400 HP and with manual transmissions. The question is; why would you consider wanting a serious performance engine built with a cast crank (and pistons) if it is going to make as much (or more) HP than what any of the factory "performance" engines came with? So yes, sometimes our engines DO cost a bit more than other advertised engines do, but there is an obvious reason for it, and anyone who is building or selling cheap "performance" engines, with cast components in them, aren't even meeting the basic standards of what fairly anemic factory performance engines originally came with. There are many types of steel used for making cranks, be them cast or forged, and some cast cranks these days are stronger than original cast cranks because they are made out of cast steel rather than cast iron. There used to be just cast iron, nodular iron, and forged steel available. Now, for the most part, there's cast steel, 4130 and 5140 forged steel, and super strong 4340 forged steel available. The new cast steel cranks are very cost effective and plenty strong for even most mild racing engines if you aren't "shocking" them very hard or don;t have a manual transmission. I have seen forged cranks break in half for no visible reason at all, yet I have seen cast cranks survive season after season in mild race cars. I recommend using forged cranks in ALL serious street performance and race engines, stroker's, etc, especially if you are using nitrous or a supercharger. You have to keep in mind, a supercharger drives off the snout of the crank. Cast cranks are notorious for snapping off the snouts with large superchargers. So much so that on more serious performance supercharged small block engines that we order them with big block snouts to make them stronger. Use a cast crank in a supercharged engine and you are just ASKING for the snout to bust off, or the very rear of the crank where all 8 cylinders are twisting the crank where the crank flange meets the "load" of the vehicle. Another VERY important time to use a forged crank is on cars that have manual transmissions. Automatic transmissions are "soft" on the drive train because of the slip of the torque converter. Clutches however are brutal on the drive train and cause "impact" when the clutch is dumped. This impact can snap a weak crank, so on performance engines going into vehicles with manual transmissions, unless it is just a street cruiser, I'd highly recommend going with a forged crank. Again, GM thought it was necessary on engines making LESS than 400 HP to have forged steel cranks (and pistons) in ALL of the early 340 / 365 / 375 HP Vettes, the 302 powered Z/28's, the LT-1 350 Z/28's, and even some trucks, so why would you think it would be OK to use a cast crank in an engine that makes that much power or more? Yes, a LOT of guys do it, and get away with it... but they are on borrowed time and are just ASKING for a failure. I won't build an engine that I think is on borrowed time or that I think won't hold up to what it will be put through, and blowing the tires off on the street, accelerating with the pedal to the metal, etc IS "racing", so it has to be as strong as any "race" engine if you want it to last. Stay away from the Chinese and Taiwan made junk. I am not a fan of the Mexican made forged cranks either. Those come in all of the late model factory crate engines. Comparing those types of cranks to a high quality crank is like comparing a Chinese made 6 dollar set of sockets to a high quality / high strength set of 125 dollar Snap-On or Mac Tools sockets. There's no comparison, especially when you find-out the cheap, Chinese sockets break the first time you try to use them. Well, "steel" cranks aren't any different except for the fact that when you go "cheap" in an engine, you are asking for a MAJOR failure that takes everything else along with it. Is that worth it? No way! That's why we don't use that kind of crap in our engines, but you sure see that crap in all of the "bargain priced" magazine ad engines out there. You get what you pay for! On the flip side, you certainly don't need a $4,000 profiled, ultra light, billet steel crank like you'd find in a Nascar engine, or even an $1,800 high quality forged steel crank in well built street / strip engine, but you also certainly don't want to run a $189.00 - $289.00 piece of crap crank in an engine that is going to make some serious power, or that has a manual trans, or has nitrous, or a supercharger. A good quality, yet bargain priced forged crank will usually run anywhere from the $750 to $1,000 range depending on the variables (lightness, big block, small block, material, etc.). Yes, they cost a bit, but it's an investment in the longevity and reliability of your engine. Just remember, you get what you pay for.
  2. https://spicerparts.com/calculators/engine-rpm-calculator This will allow you to see the rpm change with each ratio change.
  3. Prices vary by region and quality unfortunately. I will get you some pics later as the car is already at the rod run. I am heading up later today.
  4. I sent mine out to be chromed. I know its not "correct" but really could care less.
  5. "Can’t help but love the look. Really brings back memories of when I first saw one."
  6. Did you check the fan/fans touching the radiator?
  7. Thanks I have it out now. There is a small amount of adjustment. (Slotted holes) Maybe when I was having gauge issues, having it in and out a few times it just slid fwd in the holes. Moved pad back in the slots as far as possible. Will see if it looks better and can get screws back in..
  8. See mine is about an inch away. but what's odd is all the screws line up perfectly. I really don't see how it could slide under the actual pad but maybe it has. I guess pulling it back out is back on the list.
  9. Yes mostly. How much room is there from the edge of the metal to the windshield?
  10. Could someone post a picture of the top of their dash from outside of the car showing the alignment of the heater vent with the metal top (the big piece that the vin plate attaches too). Foe whatever reason the last time I had mine out it just doesn't look right. Everything bolts in with no rattles but it just looks off to me. Like the metal part is not far enough back to align correctly. It like its not close enough to the windshield.
  11. It always starts the next year in the city/town that it finished in the year prior.
  12. We may have found a solution. By swapping both axles to opposite sides looks like it will center the differential and make it usable after all. Will know more shortly.
  13. My problem is on the "short side". When we put it where it needs to be the caliper is way to close to the frame rails and the, for lack of better terms, quarter panel. We could modify the sheet metal but I would rather not. Looks like a 94-98 Mustang 8.8 is what I need. Found a couple but they are a little pricey for me. Thanks for looking around for information. I got this from another web site: 1979 and newer Mustang brake facts: - 11"and smaller brakes fit under 15"+ wheels, 12" brakes require 16"+ wheels, and 13"+ brakes require a 17" or larger diameter wheels - 1994-1998 Mustang rear axles are 3/4" wider on each side than a 79-93 Mustang. - 1999 and newer Mustang rear axles are about 1 7/16" wider on each side than a 79-93 Mustang. - 94 and newer Mustang 8.8 will bolt into a 79-93 Mustang but will require brake line adapters. - Lincoln Mark7 LSC, SVO Mustang and Fox Body Saleens use a rear axle that is 1.25" wider per side than the 87-93 Mustangs. - 94-95 spindles share the same track width as 79-93 spindles. - 96 and up spindles have an 8mm wider track width. - 79-93 Mustangs all use 9" drums with 7.5 and 8.8 rear axles. - 4.0 liter Rangers use a wider 8.8 rear axle and 10" drums. - Explorer 8.8 rear axles are 1" wider per side than a Ranger or Aerostar with a 7.5 rear axle. 79-93 Mustangs use a 57 inch wide rear axle. 94-98 Mustangs use a 58.5 inch wide rear axle. 99 and newer Mustangs use a 59 7/8 inch wide rear axle. Lincoln Mark7 LSC, SVO Mustang and Fox Body Saleens use a 59.5 inch wide rear axle
  14. So probably not a 5x4.5 lug pattern. I'm looking for something for my rat rod. I bought an explorer disc brake rear end but after stripping all the mounds found out that the center section off set was to much for my car. So money wasted at this point and need something fast. From what I can tell some off the 1990's mustangs will work and I'm sure some granada and such also. Not real particular at this point but have to have 5x4.5 for the wheels to work.
  15. Can anyone decode this tag. I know its a 9 inch 2.75 ratio. Trying to figure out what it came out of, etc..........
  16. Hey you can't ask me that. My feeling might get hurt.
  17. lots of options............... https://americanpowertrain.com/product-category/shift-handles-and-knobs/
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