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Found 8 results

  1. Having spent months looking for the right tyre supplier here in the U.K i finally found a tyre supplier that sells white belted tyres. Tyres were shipped overnight via UPS. The owner was very helpful as he owns classic American cars. I even got a discount.
  2. I just bought a new Motorcraft MAX battery. So far no problems. Turns over my 351 Cleveland with no problems. 119.00 at the dealer. 700 CCA and a 3 year replacement warranty. John J
  3. Hi all, I just wanted to give a big "Thank You" out to Ohio Mustang Supply. I just bought a pitman arm for my 72 Mach from them & they were about 40 bucks cheaper than anywhere else! Plus, I got it sent to me & it arrived in 3 days. Thank's again OMS! :)
  4. I used Richard's service at Hollywood Title to get the '72 Q-code a title when the NY DMV wouldn't help me to acquire copies of the original renewable registration. Not only is Richard good at the service he offers (each and every vehicle is thoroughly background checked - he just brought up some info on a car for me, including the date and name of the previous owner from 30-year-old records), he goes above and beyond the call of duty with his customers - and genuinely appreciates old Mustangs and classics. What's more, he's a hell of a lot cheaper than Broadway/GNT. Clear Florida title for my '72 was $350, ready to be registered. $470 if you want it the title in your name directly (as of then). Definitely worth it if you have a worthy project car that you can't do anything with because of an ancient renewable registration or lost title. -Kurt
  5. I found these on the Mustangs Unlimited site and ordered a pair. So, here they are. They look really nice and the U-Shaped bracket is using thick steel with some type of coating. The hardware is a Grade 5 with fine threads where the urethane bushings are and standard thread with the cross section bolt. The bolt that attaches to the sway bar is ½ with standard thread. All nuts have the nylon locking material. The bushings in between are natural metal material that will need to be rust proofed. I will be looking to the rust proofing process so they will last a good long time. Mustang7173 :D
  6. These fantastic little cutters have been the key to getting all the spot welds out of the trunk of my '71 Mach 1. For the beginner on a budget (or anyone on a budget), you don't need anything better or more sophisticated than these brilliant little tools. Note - many sellers show the #11082 kit (with the fixed pilot) even when offering the #11096 kit. Be careful that you get the right one. Since photos speak volumes, following are progress photos of my trunk floor removal, accomplished entirely with the Blair kit: That said, it does help to use these bits with a GOOD low-RPM, high-torque drill, such as the Milwaukee Magnum Hole Shooter. I drilled half of these welds with the Magnum, but used a cheap Black & Decker with a 90-degree adapter for the areas under the package tray. The Blair bits were not as easy to control and skipped more with the cheap, high-RPM Black & Decker drill. Do yourself a favor and use these bits with a quality drill that has a variable speed trigger. -Kurt
  7. While the stock rear suspension in your ride may be adequate for stock engines and street tires, it just isn't going to cut it when you increase horsepower. What you need is Competition Engineering's leaf spring traction bars. Perfect for stock eliminator and bracket cars, they eliminate wheel hop and improve traction by applying the force that normally produces unwanted axle rotation into a downward force, making the tires stick to the pavement. They're constructed from heavy-gauge 2 1/2 in. x 2 1/2 in. x .120 in. wall steel tubing, and are fixture-welded to ensure a perfect fit for each application. Plus, they'll handle up to 450 tire-shredding horsepower and include all materials required for installation.

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