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Ignition switch problem


1971mach1
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The spring that makes the key return to "run" after "start" won't return. It just stays in "start" position (and cranks the starter) unless I turn the key to "run" manually. It's on the 1971. Could be coincidence but it began having this problem after it got cold here (like 35 degrees,,,, ok cool for you snow guys;)). Maybe something's binding up or need some kind of lube?? Any ideas appreciated.

1971 Mach1

351C-4v

C6 is history-->>now TKO-500

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The spring that makes the key return to "run" after "start" won't return. It just stays in "start" position (and cranks the starter) unless I turn the key to "run" manually. It's on the 1971. Could be coincidence but it began having this problem after it got cold here (like 35 degrees,,,, ok cool for you snow guys;)). Maybe something's binding up or need some kind of lube?? Any ideas appreciated.

 

Sounds like it mite need took apart and lubed...Dirt and stuff over time getting in there and mixing with the old lube and turning into a little bit of glue..Could be part of the issue or all of it...Or you could get a can of that dry lube i think and spray in there...Grafite or whatever...our local postoffice has to do it alot on our old lock..lol...Im sure some one will be along with the right product or good idea...I never had to by it yet...But i think it needs a dry lube of some kind...That is think ;)

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The return spring is inside of the ign switch

 

Remove the plastic column cover to access the linkage rod

You can pop the rod out so you can move the switch rod and key assy

by hand to see which is tight

 

ALSO check the lock out rod - have had them cause binding before too, if they are not in the correct spot.

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Could also be the reverse lockout rod is binding under the stearing column.

Happened to me. Mine did not stick as you descibe but the starter would

randomly engage when I was not touching the key. Assuming you have

that mechanism.

 

mike

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And it's OMS by a nose! but they are both correct!

 

Brings up another issue. What is the purpose of the rod

and what cars came with it? I have been told it was a

rare option.

 

mike

 

Mike the lock out rod came on every 71-3

 

Although it is called a lock out rod by most guys, it is a safety devise

The main purpose for it is so you can kill the ignition while driving

[ emergency / throttle sticks ] and not lock the steering wheel.

 

On 3 and 4 speed cars you need to put trans in reverse to remove the key

On auto trans cars , needs to be in park.

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Thanks guys.

I put a small heater inside the passenger compartment for about an hour to see if it was related to the cold weather.

It works normal, so cold IS making it malfunction. Maybe the spring doesn't work when it's cold??

1971 Mach1

351C-4v

C6 is history-->>now TKO-500

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The lube would be in the key cylinder, am I right?

The key works fine when it's cold in all positions, except the spring doesn't return it to "run" after i release it from the "start" position.

1971 Mach1

351C-4v

C6 is history-->>now TKO-500

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And it's OMS by a nose! but they are both correct!

 

Brings up another issue. What is the purpose of the rod

and what cars came with it? I have been told it was a

rare option.

 

mike

 

Mike the lock out rod came on every 71-3

 

Although it is called a lock out rod by most guys, it is a safety devise

The main purpose for it is so you can kill the ignition while driving

[ emergency / throttle sticks ] and not lock the steering wheel.

 

On 3 and 4 speed cars you need to put trans in reverse to remove the key

On auto trans cars , needs to be in park.

 

How would a guy go about, say, hooking something like that up to something like an AOD swap, for instance? Is it something that could just be blown off, or is it something else I'm going to need to figure out?

 

(Sorry to steal the thread, 1971Mach1 - I promise I'll bring it right back ;) )

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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On the 5-speed swap I just removed the rod that went from the column to the trans. I've had no problems... yet :D

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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  • 1 year later...

The lube would be in the key cylinder, am I right?

The key works fine when it's cold in all positions, except the spring doesn't return it to "run" after i release it from the "start" position.

Thread back from the dead. Mine just started doing this as the weather got cold. Did you get this resolved and how? Can I avoid taking apart the column and get some cleaner in there and then graphite "lube" or take the thing apart?

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Thread back from the dead. Mine just started doing this as the weather got cold. Did you get this resolved and how? Can I avoid taking apart the column and get some cleaner in there and then graphite "lube" or take the thing apart?

 

What would be the fun of not being able to take it apart? ::chili::

Sorry, man! I couldn't resist.

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Thread back from the dead. Mine just started doing this as the weather got cold. Did you get this resolved and how? Can I avoid taking apart the column and get some cleaner in there and then graphite "lube" or take the thing apart?

 

What would be the fun of not being able to take it apart? ::chili::

Sorry, man! I couldn't resist.

It's funny. As I wrote that I knew that I would probably be taking it apart and thus learning more about the ignition system and steering column then I ever thought I would,

And, keeping Don in business when I break something therin and have to order a new part.

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The return spring is inside of the ign switch

 

Remove the plastic column cover to access the linkage rod

You can pop the rod out so you can move the switch rod and key assy

by hand to see which is tight

 

ALSO check the lock out rod - have had them cause binding before too, if they are not in the correct spot.

 

The proper place for my lock out rod is in the scrap metal bin!

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Whatever you do don't spray WD-40 into the lock cylinder. It will cause the grease that is in the cylinder to harden and then you will have a bigger problem. As Don said the issue should be all in the switch mechanism and not the lock cylinder.

Scott Carpenter

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Whatever you do don't spray WD-40 into the lock cylinder. It will cause the grease that is in the cylinder to harden and then you will have a bigger problem. As Don said the issue should be all in the switch mechanism and not the lock cylinder.

I'm thinking that this is exactly what someone did.

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  • 1 month later...

Whatever you do don't spray WD-40 into the lock cylinder. It will cause the grease that is in the cylinder to harden and then you will have a bigger problem. As Don said the issue should be all in the switch mechanism and not the lock cylinder.

I'm thinking that this is exactly what someone did.

 

Just picked up a 73 yesterday that has the same issue. Key not returning after starting. Did you get this resolved without taking apart the steering column?

73 H Code Convertible

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Whatever you do don't spray WD-40 into the lock cylinder. It will cause the grease that is in the cylinder to harden and then you will have a bigger problem. As Don said the issue should be all in the switch mechanism and not the lock cylinder.

I'm thinking that this is exactly what someone did.

 

Just picked up a 73 yesterday that has the same issue. Key not returning after starting. Did you get this resolved without taking apart the steering column?

Sure did. Contact cleaner carefully sprayed in there. No WD40! DRy type lube and all seems to be well.

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I once did some column repairs on my F150 which included using assembly lube on the switch. When it got cold it did the same thing you describe. I would guess it is a lube issue.

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1931 Ford Model A Station Wagon
1969 Mach 1 - 351C, TKO-600, 4WDB, R&P, A/C, Shaker, Fold Down, etc.
1972 Mach 1 - 351C, FMX, PDB, PS, A/C, Fold Down, Console
1996 Mustang Cobra Convertible - 10psi Procharger, 436rwhp

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Gave it a pretty heavy dose of electrical contact cleaner and all seems to be well today. Everything is must less tight and key springs back.

 

That is why I love these forums. Saved me a few hundred dollars on new ignition switch...

 

I'm thinking that this is exactly what someone did.

 

Just picked up a 73 yesterday that has the same issue. Key not returning after starting. Did you get this resolved without taking apart the steering column?

Sure did. Contact cleaner carefully sprayed in there. No WD40! DRy type lube and all seems to be well.

73 H Code Convertible

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When it happened to me, I also thought I was looking at a switch issue. You will find the experienced members on here a huge help in getting the car squared away. I am glad it worked out for you.

 

 

Gave it a pretty heavy dose of electrical contact cleaner and all seems to be well today. Everything is must less tight and key springs back.

 

That is why I love these forums. Saved me a few hundred dollars on new ignition switch...

 

 

Just picked up a 73 yesterday that has the same issue. Key not returning after starting. Did you get this resolved without taking apart the steering column?

Sure did. Contact cleaner carefully sprayed in there. No WD40! DRy type lube and all seems to be well.

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