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Dash cluster removal


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Looking to change the dash lights and wondered if there any special that needs to be done beyond removing the screws holding it in place.

 

Actually I removed the screws and couldn't pull it off.

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I always take the Dash pad off, it makes it easier to take off.

Iyman

1972 Mustang Convertable :run_horse:  [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=1507]Visit My Garage[/button]

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The speedo cable has to be released before it will come all the way out. It's been a while since I've done mine, but I think it is a squeeze release.

Mike AKA Ole Pony & Rare Pony
Our current Mustang garage/driveway
1973 Mustang Convert - Bought in 1974 - Still have it!
2004 Mach 1 Oxford White Auto, Bought Sept 06

20180127_082009.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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You will see a row of screws that point toward the floor. As mentioned you need to be able to get behind the cluster and squeeze the speedometer cable right at the cluster

2rr7aiv.png

 

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.

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Agree, with all above. First the dash pad, then the trim. When removing the trim, the collar on steering column has to come off before the cluster bezel will come out. There is a metal slide that releases it so it can pull open to fit around the column. Once the trim on the left side is removed, the collar around the steering column etc are removed, the entire cluster should be ready to remove. Squeeze to release the speedo cable and remove the plug from the printed circuit. That should release the cluster once all of the screws are removed.

 

If the cluster is still not budging once all of the trim is removed and the speedo is disconnected, make sure that you got the screws that are inside the recesses for the turn signal lights.

1673if.png

50 F1

73 Mach 1

86 F150

96 F150

2014 F150

Always looking

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I've never had to pull the dash pad off to remove the fascia; the multiple times I've had the instruments out I've always removed three of the four nuts on the steering column and loosened the forth nut down to the end of it's the stud thread (so the column doesn't become completely disconnected). With the column lowered about an inch the fascia slides out easily.

Brett

phonestang2.jpg

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On the speedometer cable

It is an offset tab release- move to one side to release - not squeeze release

You can feel or look thru the windshield and see the large flat plastic tab on one side - push on it and the cable should pop loose

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Don't forget that one of the dash bulb sockets on the left side has wires connected to it. You have to reach around the back and feel which one it is. Rotate the bulb socket a 1/2 turn to remove it.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.

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I guess it depends on the dash. I had the plug for the PCB, the wires for the tach, and the speedo cable. No bulbs had wires. However, I don't have the convenience package or the cluster clock. Those could be different.

1673if.png

50 F1

73 Mach 1

86 F150

96 F150

2014 F150

Always looking

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I guess it depends on the dash. I had the plug for the PCB, the wires for the tach, and the speedo cable. No bulbs had wires. However, I don't have the convenience package or the cluster clock. Those could be different.

 

I should have clarified this is for the warning light cluster.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.

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  • 1 month later...

It's actually pretty easy...

 

Above glove box - 3 screws (well, hopefully)

Above radio bezel - 2 screws

Above steering wheel - 3 screws

Pull dash towards you and lift to get it out

 

Upper side plate near door - 2 screws, remove

Steering column bottom piece - 2 screws, pull out

Remove the plastic cap (push in with screwdriver), remove

Black housing for gauge cluster - 2 screws at the bottom

 

1/4in bolts for gauge cluster - 4 of them

 

Disconnect speedo cable (press in and pull back)

Disconnect wire harness (squeeze in on both long ends)

Disconnect bottom left idiot gauge light (if equipped)

You can pull her out now.

 

I recommend L.E.D. bulbs but most don't dim and most only work in one direction (i.e. if it doesn't work, rotate 180 degrees). You have blue diffusers (light covers) in there so if you wan't to go a different color you'll have to remove those.

 

You can also replace the bulbs by hand without removing the cluster but it's tricky and a pain in the a$$. I REALLY REALLY recommend pulling the cluster.

 

Oh yeah, here is a video that shows you EXACTLy how to do it:

 

I learned when I got Rocketman's tachometer for my 72 Coupe. Amazing product.

-Former 70 & 72 Mustang Owner.

-69 Torino GT, Formal Roof, 351W, Edelbrock 600 cfm, Edelbrock 351W Performer RPM intake, headers, AOD trans, dual flowmasters w/H pipe, Pertronix II Billet, 3.5 TRACLOC g/r, 15" Magnum 500s, 100A alt, aluminum radiator, electric fan, Pro-car seats, mini-starter...owned since Dec 13.

-70 Mach 1, 351W, Edelbrock E-Street EFI, VHX instrument cluster, Hooker headers, dual flowmasters, Pertronix II, 15" Magnum 500s, 150A alt, aluminum radiator, dual electric fans, Pro-car seats, mini-starter

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  • 4 months later...

As big a PITA as this dash cluster stuff is. There is No Way, I'm gonna pay some shop $85+ an hour for his monkey to learn "how to" on my dime.

A body shop doesnt specalize in doing these types of things, and money paid to them is better focused on what they can do well.

Yeah Yeah I'm a cheap SOB.

However I'm speaking from experience. Weekend before last, I started to install a new speedo cable. Only to find out how deep into dissambely I'd need to go. Eventually, I had to order another cable. Since then, I have recieved my new LED inst. lites, and expect to take delivery of my new RCC Innovations tach sometime this week. Yes evidence that the "WYAI" bug had bit me. At least when the dash goes back together I won't have to do it again.

 

Tubo

"WYAI"=While Your At It!!

Miss May, 65 2+2 EFI 331 4R70W 3.55 trac-loc Not much origional remaining

Robert's 73 Vert 308 4R70W 3.25 trac-loc. EFI conversion & 8.8 Trac-Loc 3.31 started.

 

 

If it ain't broke, I haven't modified it yet.

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This is interesteing, thanks for reviving this thread. Thanks to Ken for that vid link. Im going to be ripping my interior out this fall and i want to get the dash right WYAI, so this will be a learning experience for me as i have come to find that my wipers dont work, nor my vents or blower motor either and so i want to correct this stuff while im going to be getting my interior up to shape. Is it easier to pull the dash or leave it in. I have never pulled a dash before on a old car but everything is not as accessible as the 1965 dashboard was.

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don't forget the two small screws that go in(to the panel the pad attaches to) from the top.

 

Also the 3 spring clips that hold it in are prone to breaking if you shove it together when they aren't well positioned.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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