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It's time for a security/alarm.

 

Anyone here ever install a Ravelco system?

 

http://www.ravelco.com/

 

This is not a sound alarm system, but they claim no car that has ever had this installed has been stolen.

 

Or is it better to go for the usual alarm sound system and if yes, what type would be the best/

 

Thanks

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It's time for a security/alarm.

 

Anyone here ever install a Ravelco system?

 

http://www.ravelco.com/

 

This is not a sound alarm system, but they claim no car that has ever had this installed has been stolen.

 

Or is it better to go for the usual alarm sound system and if yes, what type would be the best/

 

Thanks

Mine's protected by Smith&Wesson ! :D

1_11_01_14_4_00_47.jpeg

460 , Edelbrock Performer carb. + intake , 204 / 214 cam , Pertronix Flamethrower 2 billet dizzy + coil , Crites long tubes , C6 .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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...and when you're not around?

 

I sleep in it! Ha Ha. No, seriously I understand your thoughts,our cars are pretty easy to lift.I saw someone that makes a security steering wheel that pops right off to take with you ,might not be what you're looking to do but thought it was interesting with possible easier install.Just wish I could remember who made it. :shrug2:

1_11_01_14_4_00_47.jpeg

460 , Edelbrock Performer carb. + intake , 204 / 214 cam , Pertronix Flamethrower 2 billet dizzy + coil , Crites long tubes , C6 .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I still use the "Club" doesn't stop them, but makes it harder to take.

Iyman

1972 Mustang Convertable :run_horse:  [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=1507]Visit My Garage[/button]

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I've installed one of those or a similar product about 15 years ago. Its a mill-spec connector and cap which breaks circuits when the cap is removed. IIRC it has quite a few extra wires intended to confuse the would be thief. It would be effective on a mid 90's+ vehicle. Our cars are too simple. Ford was kind enough to provide everything needed to hot wire the car at the solenoid if you have a 2' alligator lead to connect to the coil and a screwdriver. If they can get the hood open you're screwed and if it's a manual and they can push it they wont even need the screwdriver. I used to install a lot of hood lock cables on classics. It mounted under the dash and used the round vending machine type security keys. when you pushed in the lock the cable would slide into a receiver that mounted by the hood latch. It also had a wire that you could connect to the coil that grounded when locked. I'll see if they're still available. The Club will loose to an aggressive tooth hacksaw blade every time because the steering wheel takes literally a few seconds to cut through. With all of the 24 and 48 volt cordless saws out there now forget it.

A standard alarm will make some noise before they disable it if you're lucky, but it fails for the same reasons I mentioned before. If you do opt for an alarm go with Code Alarm or Viper/Clifford (expensive ) as top tier. I sold Autopage until recently as the company was sold to complete morons. Audiovox, Crimestopper and Compustar are decent too. The trick is to hide it and keep them from getting under the hood. If they really want it they'll just tow it. I install more tracking systems than alarms now. They range from $350-475 installed for the unit and $5 to 15 per month depending on features. The advantage is that you can locate or track it on your smart phone or computer real time and it can email, page or call you if tied in with an alarm system. I have a feeling quite a few are to keep track of cheating spouses. They're handy for the kids too as you can set it to give speed alerts or set up a geo fence.

My son will be driving next year and he knows he's screwed. mwahahaha!

 

 

Found it!: http://www.amazon.com/Megatronix-Mechanical-Cable-Ignition-Interrupt/dp/B00375R0N0

they came in several sizes up to 12' I believe.I would use that along with a standard alarm.

 

Give me a call if you have questions.

My shop is Audio Advice (818)248-4663 M-F 9-6 Sat 9-2 PST.

I will be closed this coming Monday and Tuesday.

 

Devin

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I've installed one of those or a similar product about 15 years ago. Its a mill-spec connector and cap which breaks circuits when the cap is removed. IIRC it has quite a few extra wires intended to confuse the would be thief. It would be effective on a mid 90's+ vehicle. Our cars are too simple. Ford was kind enough to provide everything needed to hot wire the car at the solenoid if you have a 2' alligator lead to connect to the coil and a screwdriver. If they can get the hood open you're screwed and if it's a manual and they can push it they wont even need the screwdriver. I used to install a lot of hood lock cables on classics. It mounted under the dash and used the round vending machine type security keys. when you pushed in the lock the cable would slide into a receiver that mounted by the hood latch. It also had a wire that you could connect to the coil that grounded when locked. I'll see if they're still available. The Club will loose to an aggressive tooth hacksaw blade every time because the steering wheel takes literally a few seconds to cut through. With all of the 24 and 48 volt cordless saws out there now forget it.

A standard alarm will make some noise before they disable it if you're lucky, but it fails for the same reasons I mentioned before. If you do opt for an alarm go with Code Alarm or Viper/Clifford (expensive ) as top tier. I sold Autopage until recently as the company was sold to complete morons. Audiovox, Crimestopper and Compustar are decent too. The trick is to hide it and keep them from getting under the hood. If they really want it they'll just tow it. I install more tracking systems than alarms now. They range from $350-475 installed for the unit and $5 to 15 per month depending on features. The advantage is that you can locate or track it on your smart phone or computer real time and it can email, page or call you if tied in with an alarm system. I have a feeling quite a few are to keep track of cheating spouses. They're handy for the kids too as you can set it to give speed alerts or set up a geo fence.

My son will be driving next year and he knows he's screwed. mwahahaha!

 

 

Found it!: http://www.amazon.com/Megatronix-Mechanical-Cable-Ignition-Interrupt/dp/B00375R0N0

they came in several sizes up to 12' I believe.I would use that along with a standard alarm.

 

Give me a call if you have questions.

My shop is Audio Advice (818)248-4663 M-F 9-6 Sat 9-2 PST.

I will be closed this coming Monday and Tuesday.

 

Devin

 

So you don't think the Ravelco is worth the cost?

 

Another reason why I want a hood lock on the car.

 

I do remember the Chapmen lock which is the same as the link you posted.

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Found this item in a Summit Racing catalogue, but could not find it on

their website. So I went to Amazon. Have not seen one of these.

 

http://www.amazon.com/The-Club-491-Security-Device/dp/B000SDVEU4/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1363453296&sr=1-13&keywords=the+club+steering+wheel+lock

 

mike

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Found this item in a Summit Racing catalogue, but could not find it on

their website. So I went to Amazon. Have not seen one of these.

 

http://www.amazon.com/The-Club-491-Security-Device/dp/B000SDVEU4/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1363453296&sr=1-13&keywords=the+club+steering+wheel+lock

 

mike

 

now thats nice for Trailers.

Iyman

1972 Mustang Convertable :run_horse:  [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=1507]Visit My Garage[/button]

Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Facebook Page [button=https://www.facebook.com/MUSTANGCCNE]MCCNE FB Page[/button]

 

Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Web Page [button=http://www.mccne.com/]MCCNE Web Page[/button]

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Found this item in a Summit Racing catalogue, but could not find it on

their website. So I went to Amazon. Have not seen one of these.

 

http://www.amazon.com/The-Club-491-Security-Device/dp/B000SDVEU4/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1363453296&sr=1-13&keywords=the+club+steering+wheel+lock

 

mike

 

now thats nice for Trailers.

 

I can imagine someone entering a car and taking their time removing

a club on the steering wheel. But outside the car beating on the

tire?? I don't know.

 

mike

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Found this item in a Summit Racing catalogue, but could not find it on

their website. So I went to Amazon. Have not seen one of these.

 

http://www.amazon.com/The-Club-491-Security-Device/dp/B000SDVEU4/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1363453296&sr=1-13&keywords=the+club+steering+wheel+lock

 

mike

 

now thats nice for Trailers.

 

I can imagine someone entering a car and taking their time removing

a club on the steering wheel. But outside the car beating on the

tire?? I don't know.

 

mike

 

I never thought of it that way.

Iyman

1972 Mustang Convertable :run_horse:  [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=1507]Visit My Garage[/button]

Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Facebook Page [button=https://www.facebook.com/MUSTANGCCNE]MCCNE FB Page[/button]

 

Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Web Page [button=http://www.mccne.com/]MCCNE Web Page[/button]

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So you don't think the Ravelco is worth the cost?

 

Another reason why I want a hood lock on the car.

 

I do remember the Chapmen lock which is the same as the link you posted.

 

Again I feel it doesn't work as well on an older car. Everything is too exposed and the wiring will stand out unless you re wrap some of the oem harnesses. A hidden coil interrupt would be more effective in conjunction with a standard alarm. I do interrupts (kill switches) with a reed switch (magnetic switch) and a neodymium magnet. Basically find a plastic area like the radio console or center console and epoxy the reed switch from behind. When a magnet is placed over the switch it closes the contacts in the switch thus actuating the relay wired to the coil or starter solenoid. I usually have the customer get a small emblem and epoxy the magnet to the back side. When you want to secure the vehicle pop the emblem off and stick it somewhere else. It can be wired to run when the magnet is present or when it is removed by using a normally open or normally closed reed switch.

 

I still highly recommend the hood latch. Just make sure to take a ton of time lining it up and secure it in as many places as is possible. Slack in the cable can be the difference between clearing and busting out the Sawzall.

 

The tire club would be great if there weren't so many unscrupulous tow truck drivers that lift cars on the side.


Found this item in a Summit Racing catalogue, but could not find it on

their website. So I went to Amazon. Have not seen one of these.

 

http://www.amazon.com/The-Club-491-Security-Device/dp/B000SDVEU4/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1363453296&sr=1-13&keywords=the+club+steering+wheel+lock

 

mike

 

now thats nice for Trailers.

 

I can imagine someone entering a car and taking their time removing

a club on the steering wheel. But outside the car beating on the

tire?? I don't know.

 

mike

 

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS370K-18-Volt-NiCd-Cordless/dp/B0058UVXXK

 

There you go. And the dirtbag can get super saver shipping.:P

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So you don't think the Ravelco is worth the cost?

 

Another reason why I want a hood lock on the car.

 

I do remember the Chapmen lock which is the same as the link you posted.

 

Again I feel it doesn't work as well on an older car. Everything is too exposed and the wiring will stand out unless you re wrap some of the oem harnesses. A hidden coil interrupt would be more effective in conjunction with a standard alarm. I do interrupts (kill switches) with a reed switch (magnetic switch) and a neodymium magnet. Basically find a plastic area like the radio console or center console and epoxy the reed switch from behind. When a magnet is placed over the switch it closes the contacts in the switch thus actuating the relay wired to the coil or starter solenoid. I usually have the customer get a small emblem and epoxy the magnet to the back side. When you want to secure the vehicle pop the emblem off and stick it somewhere else. It can be wired to run when the magnet is present or when it is removed by using a normally open or normally closed reed switch.

 

I still highly recommend the hood latch. Just make sure to take a ton of time lining it up and secure it in as many places as is possible. Slack in the cable can be the difference between clearing and busting out the Sawzall.

 

The tire club would be great if there weren't so many unscrupulous tow truck drivers that lift cars on the side.


 

now thats nice for Trailers.

 

I can imagine someone entering a car and taking their time removing

a club on the steering wheel. But outside the car beating on the

tire?? I don't know.

 

mike

 

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS370K-18-Volt-NiCd-Cordless/dp/B0058UVXXK

 

There you go. And the dirtbag can get super saver shipping.:P

 

Good info. The car is going into the shop next week to add front/rear spoilers and some other items. I'll run this by my body shop guy to get his opinion.

 

Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

yesterday I desided to see how hard it was to hot wire our cars.

I took an alegator clip and tied one end to the +12v on the coil the other end to the +12v on the Battery, and I used an other jumper to trigger the starter solinoind.

now if I got in the car and disingaged the wheel lock, I would have stole my car.!! and the fact that our cars don't have locking hoods, makes it easier.

Iyman

1972 Mustang Convertable :run_horse:  [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=1507]Visit My Garage[/button]

Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Facebook Page [button=https://www.facebook.com/MUSTANGCCNE]MCCNE FB Page[/button]

 

Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Web Page [button=http://www.mccne.com/]MCCNE Web Page[/button]

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I've installed one of those or a similar product about 15 years ago. Its a mill-spec connector and cap which breaks circuits when the cap is removed. IIRC it has quite a few extra wires intended to confuse the would be thief. It would be effective on a mid 90's+ vehicle. Our cars are too simple. Ford was kind enough to provide everything needed to hot wire the car at the solenoid if you have a 2' alligator lead to connect to the coil and a screwdriver. If they can get the hood open you're screwed and if it's a manual and they can push it they wont even need the screwdriver. I used to install a lot of hood lock cables on classics. It mounted under the dash and used the round vending machine type security keys. when you pushed in the lock the cable would slide into a receiver that mounted by the hood latch. It also had a wire that you could connect to the coil that grounded when locked. I'll see if they're still available. The Club will loose to an aggressive tooth hacksaw blade every time because the steering wheel takes literally a few seconds to cut through. With all of the 24 and 48 volt cordless saws out there now forget it.

A standard alarm will make some noise before they disable it if you're lucky, but it fails for the same reasons I mentioned before. If you do opt for an alarm go with Code Alarm or Viper/Clifford (expensive ) as top tier. I sold Autopage until recently as the company was sold to complete morons. Audiovox, Crimestopper and Compustar are decent too. The trick is to hide it and keep them from getting under the hood. If they really want it they'll just tow it. I install more tracking systems than alarms now. They range from $350-475 installed for the unit and $5 to 15 per month depending on features. The advantage is that you can locate or track it on your smart phone or computer real time and it can email, page or call you if tied in with an alarm system. I have a feeling quite a few are to keep track of cheating spouses. They're handy for the kids too as you can set it to give speed alerts or set up a geo fence.

My son will be driving next year and he knows he's screwed. mwahahaha!

 

 

Found it!: http://www.amazon.com/Megatronix-Mechanical-Cable-Ignition-Interrupt/dp/B00375R0N0

they came in several sizes up to 12' I believe.I would use that along with a standard alarm.

 

Give me a call if you have questions.

My shop is Audio Advice (818)248-4663 M-F 9-6 Sat 9-2 PST.

I will be closed this coming Monday and Tuesday.

 

Devin

 

IS this one difficult to instal i dont really understad the way it works but I really need that kind of security. and I wonder if you need a high skill to do this. since its going to be hard for me to find someone who knows how here in mexico

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  • 3 months later...

I've installed one of those or a similar product about 15 years ago. Its a mill-spec connector and cap which breaks circuits when the cap is removed. IIRC it has quite a few extra wires intended to confuse the would be thief. It would be effective on a mid 90's+ vehicle. Our cars are too simple. Ford was kind enough to provide everything needed to hot wire the car at the solenoid if you have a 2' alligator lead to connect to the coil and a screwdriver. If they can get the hood open you're screwed and if it's a manual and they can push it they wont even need the screwdriver. I used to install a lot of hood lock cables on classics. It mounted under the dash and used the round vending machine type security keys. when you pushed in the lock the cable would slide into a receiver that mounted by the hood latch. It also had a wire that you could connect to the coil that grounded when locked. I'll see if they're still available. The Club will loose to an aggressive tooth hacksaw blade every time because the steering wheel takes literally a few seconds to cut through. With all of the 24 and 48 volt cordless saws out there now forget it.

A standard alarm will make some noise before they disable it if you're lucky, but it fails for the same reasons I mentioned before. If you do opt for an alarm go with Code Alarm or Viper/Clifford (expensive ) as top tier. I sold Autopage until recently as the company was sold to complete morons. Audiovox, Crimestopper and Compustar are decent too. The trick is to hide it and keep them from getting under the hood. If they really want it they'll just tow it. I install more tracking systems than alarms now. They range from $350-475 installed for the unit and $5 to 15 per month depending on features. The advantage is that you can locate or track it on your smart phone or computer real time and it can email, page or call you if tied in with an alarm system. I have a feeling quite a few are to keep track of cheating spouses. They're handy for the kids too as you can set it to give speed alerts or set up a geo fence.

My son will be driving next year and he knows he's screwed. mwahahaha!

 

 

Found it!: http://www.amazon.com/Megatronix-Mechanical-Cable-Ignition-Interrupt/dp/B00375R0N0

they came in several sizes up to 12' I believe.I would use that along with a standard alarm.

 

Give me a call if you have questions.

My shop is Audio Advice (818)248-4663 M-F 9-6 Sat 9-2 PST.

I will be closed this coming Monday and Tuesday.

 

Devin

 

My shop said that they were unable to install the Megatronix lock. So it's still in the box as new. Maybe I should try another shop.

 

In the meantime I'm really leaning towards the Ravelco.

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what was there reason? it seems simple.

 

install a toggle switch under the dash where you know where it is, and intrupt the ignition wire. a $5 switch and install it your self Install cost $0

Iyman

1972 Mustang Convertable :run_horse:  [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=1507]Visit My Garage[/button]

Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Facebook Page [button=https://www.facebook.com/MUSTANGCCNE]MCCNE FB Page[/button]

 

Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Web Page [button=http://www.mccne.com/]MCCNE Web Page[/button]

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install a toggle switch under the dash where you know where it is, and intrupt the ignition wire. a $5 switch and install it your self Install cost $0

 

I got that setup. A switch that kills the MSD ignition. Starter will work but no spark.

Then one day you replace the heater core, tear half the dash apart and accidentally flip the switch during that operation.

Two days later you wanna move the car and it won't start.

Then you spend two hours looking for the problem, check the ignition and the carb, take the distributor apart and wonder why there is no spark.

Then after two hours just when you're about to blow a fuse you remember that you might have flipped a switch somewhere.

Then you spend another half hour bitching about your stupidity.

Other than that it's a really cool feature that works like a charm.

:)

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Mike
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what was there reason? it seems simple.

 

install a toggle switch under the dash where you know where it is, and intrupt the ignition wire. a $5 switch and install it your self Install cost $0

 

Something to do with no support in the front of the car, but the radiator support is metal. So I didn't want to dig deeper since they really didn't want to do the job.

 

Guess I need to find another local shop.

 

But I still think that the Ravelco is worth it.

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Sorry, I haven't been on too much recently and lost track of the thread. I spoke to Ravelco recently because a local plumbing company has had several of their vans stolen, but Ravelco no longer sell to shops or previous dealers. It is done by their "in house" installers only similar to Lojack. This would concern me as the owner of a classic vehicle. For the hood lock I would recommend perhaps a rod and custom type shop. It's really straight forward and just requires patience and basic fab skills in some cases.

 

You can have 15 hidden switches and an alarm , but if the would be thief can get to the solenoid the car is his. I demonstrated this to a customer a couple of weeks ago who had spent 10+ years restoring an early Ranchero. He was not happy.

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Sorry, I haven't been on too much recently and lost track of the thread. I spoke to Ravelco recently because a local plumbing company has had several of their vans stolen, but Ravelco no longer sell to shops or previous dealers. It is done by their "in house" installers only similar to Lojack. This would concern me as the owner of a classic vehicle. For the hood lock I would recommend perhaps a rod and custom type shop. It's really straight forward and just requires patience and basic fab skills in some cases.

 

You can have 15 hidden switches and an alarm , but if the would be thief can get to the solenoid the car is his. I demonstrated this to a customer a couple of weeks ago who had spent 10+ years restoring an early Ranchero. He was not happy.

 

It's being installed (Ravelco) tomorrow morning and I'll ask the guy about the solenoid. Plus will look around for a rod and custom shop.

 

Thanks

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It's done. I know this might sound crazy but the guy took close to 6 hours for a full install. It should have been 4 hours, but one of the circuits wasn't connected properly and he had to just about pull it apart to correct it.

 

The system is totally integrated into the wiring system of the car and I'm convinced there's no way my car can be hot wired.

 

This is one sweet customized system and I would recommend it to others (and no I don't get any referral fees).

 

So if anyone is interested and living between Virginia to the Northeast contact Chuck http://www.carthiefstoppers.com/.

 

Tell him Mark with the 73 Mustang referred you.

 

Just so you know the cost was $469.00. But you really can't put a price on piece of mind.

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