heater hose connector on engine block needs replacing

will e · May 22, 2013

My 351C has a heater hose connector on the engine block. It's probably pressed in. It has developed a hole in the side of it. I can just get the hose clamp on below it, so no leaks, but it's overall condition is marginal and I need to replace it.

How do I get the old one out?

Are new ones available?

SHould I just tap it and put a screwed in connector?

TommyK · May 23, 2013

My 351C has a heater hose connector on the engine block. It's probably pressed in. It has developed a hole in the side of it. I can just get the hose clamp on below it, so no leaks, but it's overall condition is marginal and I need to replace it.

How do I get the old one out?

Are new ones available?

SHould I just tap it and put a screwed in connector?

You have to collapse the old tube inside the hole a little then yank it out with vise grips.

I tapped mine for a 3/8" NPT x 5/8" hose fitting. The hole is already the correct size for the tap.

Cole · May 23, 2013

I just did the tap thing too. Must be an NPT tap and the tap cuts out the old sleeve. Have one of those magnets on a the end of a pointer for picking up parts. Gets the shavings out of the block.

droptop73 · May 23, 2013

My understanding is they sell a replacement pressed in fitting at NAPA.

will e · May 23, 2013

I already have the correct tap so I will probably go that route then.

If I go pressed, how do you get the new one pressed in? Do you tap it in with a hammer or ??

72HCODE · May 23, 2013

they make both the press fit and the threaded version.

man its been years i have a cleveland book , you collapse the old one like tommyk said then the new one gets tapped in with a mallet or use a piece of wood on top and hammer it down, but i seem to remember you are suppose to use some sealant on the upper part before you hammer it completely into the block.

it was almost like machinist threadlock for when you press fit gears, maybe it was red threadlock i have to find the book about it buried in my car stuff.

TommyK · May 23, 2013

I already have the correct tap so I will probably go that route then.

If I go pressed, how do you get the new one pressed in? Do you tap it in with a hammer or ??

Put the fitting in the freezer. Heat the block with a torch. Put some type of sealant on the fitting to act as a lubricant. Place an appropriately sized socket over top if the fitting and drive it home with a dead blow hammer. But be quick!

will e · Jun 1, 2013

Well, I got the old one 'mostly out'. It basically broke apart as I tried to use vice grips/channel locks. I started with the tap and that took some of the top part out. Now I am tapped about 1/4 inch down or so and the rest of the original fittig is still in the block. It spins, so it isn't 'stuck' but I can't get it to come out. I am cautious with the tap, if I 'force it' I might strip the threads I have already created.

Oh well, haven't screwed it up yet, so that's a victory. I am going to go get some mexican food and go back at it tomorrow. If you have a good idea on how to get the rest out, post up!

mustbrad · Jun 2, 2013

did mine today just put sealant on it drove it in with the socket and a hammer

TommyK · Jun 3, 2013

Well, I got the old one 'mostly out'. It basically broke apart as I tried to use vice grips/channel locks. I started with the tap and that took some of the top part out. Now I am tapped about 1/4 inch down or so and the rest of the original fittig is still in the block. It spins, so it isn't 'stuck' but I can't get it to come out. I am cautious with the tap, if I 'force it' I might strip the threads I have already created.

Oh well, haven't screwed it up yet, so that's a victory. I am going to go get some mexican food and go back at it tomorrow. If you have a good idea on how to get the rest out, post up!

You need to drive something between what is left of the tube and the block like a thin straight screw driver or a carpenter's awl and pry it toward the center to collapse it so it will come out.

will e · Jun 3, 2013

Well, I got the old one 'mostly out'. It basically broke apart as I tried to use vice grips/channel locks. I started with the tap and that took some of the top part out. Now I am tapped about 1/4 inch down or so and the rest of the original fittig is still in the block. It spins, so it isn't 'stuck' but I can't get it to come out. I am cautious with the tap, if I 'force it' I might strip the threads I have already created.

Oh well, haven't screwed it up yet, so that's a victory. I am going to go get some mexican food and go back at it tomorrow. If you have a good idea on how to get the rest out, post up!

Click to expand...

You need to drive something between what is left of the tube and the block like a thin straight screw driver or a carpenter's awl and pry it toward the center to collapse it so it will come out.

Yeah, that's what I was trying to do. I was having no luck slipping anything in between but then figured out I could use a pick from underneatch and pull it just far enough to slip a screwdriver in from the top. Wrestled with it for a few hours in the garage with temps at 105 plus... I got it fixed and lost 10 pounds too. 'Hot Yoga' has nothing on working on a Mustang in a hot garage.

73vertproject · Jun 3, 2013

Good job. Glad you got 'er fixed.

Cole · Jun 3, 2013

'Hot Yoga' has nothing on working on a Mustang in a hot garage.

Depends on who your Yoga partner is. LOL

Glad ya got her out Bro. Its a bugger, know that from a couple weeks ago.

jhawk635 · Jan 12, 2014

Great thread...I was puzzled with how to deal with this. Does someone know if this is the correct part?

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Heater-Fitting/_/R-BK_6601580_0071045365

The guys at Napa told me I needed a threaded version but I think this will do the trick? Also, what sealant do you recommend?

Thanks,

John

ccijwright · Jan 22, 2014

Great thread...I was puzzled with how to deal with this. Does someone know if this is the correct part?

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Heater-Fitting/_/R-BK_6601580_0071045365

The guys at Napa told me I needed a threaded version but I think this will do the trick? Also, what sealant do you recommend?

Thanks,

John

Yes, that is the correct one. I have used it for my block.

jhawk635 · Jan 22, 2014

Yes, that is the correct one. I have used it for my block.

Perfect...bought it and went in like a charm!

cheezsnake · May 11, 2016

About how much pipe should be sticking out of the block when done? I was only able to drive mine about 1/4 inch, and something tells me that's not good enough. Thanks.

basstrix · May 12, 2016

Drive it in at least 1 full diameter, 1-1/2 if you have enough protruding. You are correct, 1/4" isn't enough. There should be enough protruding that you can fit a hose clamp between the rib at the end of the tube and the block with some room on either side of the clamp (maybe 1/8").

cheezsnake · May 12, 2016

Thanks for the help. Time to get a bigger hammer.

heater hose connector on engine block needs replacing

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