Need a Good Cowl Hat Pic

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Jul 10, 2010
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Location
Florida
My Car
1972 Coupe
2001 Coupe
I returned the heater box to the firewall yesterday to begin mocking up the lower cowl repair I need. The lower area rotted away enough that I'm not clear on how the box seals to the lower cowl and how the hat should look. :huh:

I've got a pic here of the box, as viewed through the lower cowl, and a pic of a trim ring that had rusted away from the lower cowl area. When I try to match it to the cowl area, it just doesn't look right in any position. The trim ring has a flat section on the perimeter, about 3" long, but it's not clear where that flat area should fall.

Any help and direction would be appreciated. A few pics of a repaired lower cowl with the heater box in place, would be awesome.

Thanks.

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I returned the heater box to the firewall yesterday to begin mocking up the lower cowl repair I need. The lower area rotted away enough that I'm not clear on how the box seals to the lower cowl and how the hat should look. :huh:

I've got a pic here of the box, as viewed through the lower cowl, and a pic of a trim ring that had rusted away from the lower cowl area. When I try to match it to the cowl area, it just doesn't look right in any position. The trim ring has a flat section on the perimeter, about 3" long, but it's not clear where that flat area should fall.

Any help and direction would be appreciated. A few pics of a repaired lower cowl with the heater box in place, would be awesome.

Thanks.
Lucky you..;) I just happened to start my cowl repair on pass side today...you need to get rid of ALL that swiss cheese on the lower part, cut it back till theres no holes..It gonna be easier to weld & a better repair. you should have just removed the hat THEN make a card board template BEFORE cutting out the bad stuff (I have a post on MD's rocker panel repair on how to do compound curve metal patches)

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Pics are perfect. Thanks, guys. I'll check out your other post, Qcode. I had one of those "self-removing" hats, so I didn't get the luxury of taking it off, just picked it up, haha. Also, the material I removed was only to avoid having to buy another tube of antibiotic as I reach around this area before the fix. My car loves me, and she grabs me constantly as I work.

It looks like 73mach's hat sits a little higher from the base than Qcode's. Is that likely just the photo angle, or are they different? And, is the height from the base consistent around the perimeter (keeping the top pretty much level), or does it angle slightly to the front or rear?

Thanks.

Mark

 
Pics are perfect. Thanks, guys. I'll check out your other post, Qcode. I had one of those "self-removing" hats, so I didn't get the luxury of taking it off, just picked it up, haha. Also, the material I removed was only to avoid having to buy another tube of antibiotic as I reach around this area before the fix. My car loves me, and she grabs me constantly as I work.

It looks like 73mach's hat sits a little higher from the base than Qcode's. Is that likely just the photo angle, or are they different? And, is the height from the base consistent around the perimeter (keeping the top pretty much level), or does it angle slightly to the front or rear?

Thanks.

Mark
Mark It's the photo angle. The slant of the hat is built into the hat, The top is not level..Whats level is the base..so if you had a good hat & put it on a level table the 10 / 11 o'clock postion would be higher than the front..Are you gonna buy a replacement hat ? I belive TNfastback had a brand new one for sale last week (it's from a 70 but can be used) I think the best way for you to do this repair is make your bottom patch..use a few cleco's or sheet metal screws to hold the bottom patch in place..install the heater box TIGHTLY in postion...trace where the hole has to go..remove the heater box...then measure the INSIDE dia. of the heater box hole. Get a compass & then use it to mark the final cut on the patch..I would then fit the new hat as per our pics as close as possible...Then put the top of the cowl on to check fit. It's not really critical, unless your doing a concours restoration..whats important is to leave a gap between the top of the hat & the bottom of the top cowl piece. Other wise when you go to put the top cowl piece on... it's gonna be Hummm how come my cowl won't fit...If you buy the part from TN (which you should) I would just drill out the spot welds & flip it around this way you have the flange or lip on the top like ours does & Then you just mark the bottom (while inside the car so you can jiggle it around for the proper angle) & cut ..weld that to your patch..you only need a few beads around the perimiter..Then follow my cowl sealing vid in the vid gallery.

 
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