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My Next Project (V Code 71 Roadrunner)


jbojo
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Any reccomendations for a rotisserie? I am looking at one from Auto Twirler that I like. There are a lot out there and I keep bouncing around trying to decide on one. thx

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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6/16/16

Been working on the car a little this week in prep to remove the drive train in the next few days. Well today I got my Eastwood Versa-Bend metal brake and I had to try it out. I got it to repair the rusted sections for the rear window. The metal is only rusted on the sides and bottom of the channel so I thought I'd give it a try to repair this. If it doesn't work I can just replace the whole panel but that requires drilling out a lot of spot welds and removing some other panels which would be a lot of work.

 

This metal brake allows me to make a 20" long channel that is the same shape of the existing one. So I got some 22ga sheet metal and tried to make the repair pieces. I will cut out the rusted sections and then weld the replacement pieces in and it should be good.

 

I'll actually do the repairs when I get the car on the rotisserie so that it will be easier to weld when the car is on the side. I can just stand and weld the pieces on instead of climbing on the car to do it. Finally made a decision and will get the Auto Twirler Rotisserie for this project.

 

Here are some pics of the piece that I made and I must say that it works really well and was really easy to make. I made the piece without being critical on the measurements and was impressed by the results. When I get more precise with the bends you will not be able to tell it was replaced.

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-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Wow that is so awesome work John[WINKING FACE][THUMBS UP SIGN] Regards Lars

 

sent from my 2303. Regards Lars DK73 Denmark

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73:whistling:

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6/23/16

Looking for more issues and I found 2. After I got the trunk cleaned I found a spot in the trunk that was rotted through. It is small enough that I can weld in a small patch to fix. After I get the gas tank off it will give me a better idea of what the trunk floor looks like.

 

The second issue is with the frame rail on the drivers side rear that goes over the rear axle. Not sure why it's in this condition but I will have to cut out the area and weld in a patch. I have ordered the materials to do this.

 

Going to cut out the exhaust in the drivers side next and then remove that auto tranny that was installed. Here are a couple of pics of the issues I found.

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-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Nice! I wish I had those skills.

 

You have the skills, just takes the time and patience to figure out how you want to do it.

 

BTW, right now I am just trying to identify all the metal work that needs to be done. I want to get everything off so I have the body only and then get it on the rotisserie to do the work. It will be easier if I don't have to do the work on my back or climbing on things when I do the welding. I will try to document all the repairs as I do them, stayed tuned.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Nice work! I'm eagerly watching this one, as the '71-'74 Mopar B-bodies are on my Top-5 List of favorite muscle cars - Road Runners, Satellites, and GTXs on top of those.

 

You are also correct - anybody can do this stuff. As with anything, it just takes time, patience, practice, the right advice, the right tools, and a little bit of luck doesn't hurt, either. :cool:

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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The second issue is with the frame rail on the drivers side rear that goes over the rear axle. Not sure why it's in this condition but I will have to cut out the area and weld in a patch. I have ordered the materials to do this.

 

 

I am looking at your picture and can't figure out a logic way of how the frame rail will break like this. It looks like a pipe burst due to internal pressure, but obviously the rail is not under pressure. I wonder if someone cut the railing for who knows what reason and the bent open the metal as they move along the cut, or something was forced though the railing to shear the frame. Just weird!

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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The second issue is with the frame rail on the drivers side rear that goes over the rear axle. Not sure why it's in this condition but I will have to cut out the area and weld in a patch. I have ordered the materials to do this.

 

 

I am looking at your picture and can't figure out a logic way of how the frame rail will break like this. It looks like a pipe burst due to internal pressure, but obviously the rail is not under pressure. I wonder if someone cut the railing for who knows what reason and the bent open the metal as they move along the cut, or something was forced though the railing to shear the frame. Just weird!

 

That is a good description of what it looks like. I have been trying to figure out why someone would do this too. The saving grace is that they did not cut down the sides of that rail.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Looks like someone put a hook in the chassis rail and tried to pull the car backwards for whatever reason. I would just check the drivers side floor and frame rail common mopar rust spots even in dry cars. Trunk is most likely a result of a leak around the back window because of the few rust spots you found there.

He has all the vices I admire and none of the virtues I despise

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Luke,

Spoke with PO and he confirms that one night while drunk he put the car in the ditch and pulled it out by hooking the chain on that frame rail so that explains the damage

 

Continued the tear now and I found some more issues though they are minor. The first is on the rear wheel wells, they rolled the lip to get bigger tires on it and I noticed it because there were waves in the metal. Nothing serious so I'll just need to get those waves out of the metal. I was considering trying to get those wheel well lips back but I am just thinking to leave well enough alone. Opinions? The second is the shifter hump. When they put in the auto they cut out some of the top panel so I'll have to patch up that now. Again it is nothing major and while I am putting in the patch I'll weld the extra drill holes closed. Here are some pics of the shifter and the tranny hump which should be a square hole. Tomorrow I am going to try to get the tranny out. Went to a car show today and saw this 71 Challenger with a 440-4V and 4spd for sale. The guy wanted 32K or best offer. He was wanting to get a GM sports car.

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-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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John that looks like a nice car for the money on the pics at least.

 

Here are my thoughts on restoring the RR. I think that this is a pretty unique car so stock standard is where the value is as far as resale well at least here in Aus. Here is where I am at personally stock is fine but if you like to enjoy your car slight mods make the whole thing more pleasant. I would probably try to put the lips back on and just sacrifice a tire size or two in width if you are going to run mags. I know you are going overdrive and I personally would have no hesitation in running different pipes and period correct mags on it, kind like if you brought it brand new and went straight around to the tyre shop and exhaust place the next morning I would probably lower the whole thing about 2in from stock too. These are all minor things that can be reversed.

 

That's just me at the end of the day your call, its going to be a sweet thing no matter what.

He has all the vices I admire and none of the virtues I despise

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John that looks like a nice car for the money on the pics at least.

 

Here are my thoughts on restoring the RR. I think that this is a pretty unique car so stock standard is where the value is as far as resale well at least here in Aus. Here is where I am at personally stock is fine but if you like to enjoy your car slight mods make the whole thing more pleasant. I would probably try to put the lips back on and just sacrifice a tire size or two in width if you are going to run mags. I know you are going overdrive and I personally would have no hesitation in running different pipes and period correct mags on it, kind like if you brought it brand new and went straight around to the tyre shop and exhaust place the next morning I would probably lower the whole thing about 2in from stock too. These are all minor things that can be reversed.

 

That's just me at the end of the day your call, its going to be a sweet thing no matter what.

 

Luke,

Thx I value your opinion here. Do you think that I should try to bend the lips back or weld on new ones? I'll attach pics of the wheel wells tomorrow.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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I think it would depend on whether the lips have been cut then rolled or just rolled also how much care the PO took doing it, also what it all looks like when the paint comes off.For me it's the grill and rear guards that are signatures of these particular B bodies so in my mind it warrants a good repairs. Again just a opinion from half a world away mate.

Funny thing how fuselage mopars where unwanted for years here in Australia now the prices are starting to creep just like 71-73 mustangs. Do all of us on the forum have strange taste or are we ahead of the herd

He has all the vices I admire and none of the virtues I despise

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Luke,

Spoke with PO and he confirms that one night while drunk he put the car in the ditch and pulled it out by hooking the chain on that frame rail so that explains the damage

 

Continued the tear now and I found some more issues though they are minor. The first is on the rear wheel wells, they rolled the lip to get bigger tires on it and I noticed it because there were waves in the metal. Nothing serious so I'll just need to get those waves out of the metal. I was considering trying to get those wheel well lips back but I am just thinking to leave well enough alone. Opinions? The second is the shifter hump. When they put in the auto they cut out some of the top panel so I'll have to patch up that now. Again it is nothing major and while I am putting in the patch I'll weld the extra drill holes closed. Here are some pics of the shifter and the tranny hump which should be a square hole. Tomorrow I am going to try to get the tranny out. Went to a car show today and saw this 71 Challenger with a 440-4V and 4spd for sale. The guy wanted 32K or best offer. He was wanting to get a GM sports car.

 

not to be picky but that nice Challenger looks to be a 73. I cant wait to see our your car done. Looks like good progress.

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6/26/16

Took a couple of pictures of the rear fender well and I believe that I will be able to reform them back to original again. Attached some pics.

 

Also got the entire exhaust off including the manifolds and all the accessories off the motor. I have a long weekend next week so the motor should hopefully be out by then.

 

Including pics of the underside and motor area.

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-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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7/2/16

The old motor and tranny is out. The engine wiring harness was a total mess. Wires were spliced, insulation burned and not even hooked up to the sensors. Lucky these are repro'd so it shouldn't be a big issue.

 

Next step is to start removing the panels so that I can get it on the rotisserie. Also going to try pull out the long dent along the drivers door using studs. This will be the first time I ever did this so I'll document it with pictures. Here are some of todays pics.

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-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Wow that is so awesome Job your doing [WINKING FACE] so keep them coming John😎[TONGUE][THUMBS UP SIGN] Regards Lars

 

Sendt fra min E2303 med Tapatalk

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73:whistling:

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7/3/16

 

Thx Lars.

 

Today I wanted to try out a new toy so I decided to take out the damage on the rear passenger side. It was crunched so I decided to pull out the metal with welded studs. You can see that I had several dented in areas and the gap below the rear side light was pushed in about 1/2 inch. Once I welded in the studs I used "Stud Lever" to pull on the panels. As you pull the handle it pulls the metal and you use a body hammer to relieve the stress. I got all the dents pulled and I think that I will need to use 1/16 inch of filler to get the final shape and finish.

 

This was my trial run in prep to do the drivers door. It has about a 25 inch gash and the metal is pushed in along the crease. The normal shape is an outward curve on the bottom and because its the door you can't use body tools.

 

Here are some pics from today

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-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Wow that is so awesome work John! But where have you got those tools for body work? That's what I would love to get! [TONGUE][THUMBS UP SIGN] Regards Lars

 

Sendt fra min E2303 med Tapatalk

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73:whistling:

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Lars,

I got most of my body work tools from EastWood. I like their tools a lot. That metal brake that I got was from them too and it works perfectly.

 

Luke,

That is a 1978 Lil Red Express truck that I got as a wreck and fixed it up as a daily driver back in 1989. Dodge only made 2188 units for that year and a little over 5000 in 1979. I plan on redoing it again sometime in the future. Here is a article about this truck.

 

http://www.allpar.com/trucks/dodge/lil-red-truck.html

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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