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Hello

 

I have to replace my old carb in my 1971 Stang 351 Cleveland 2 V H Code with FMX automatic tranny

 

Which brand and mnodel would you suggest me ?

 

Holley, Edelbrock ?

 

Thanks

 

Francesco

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You're going to get different answers depending on the prefrences of the people answering. They both work, they both work well and unless it's a hardcore race application (where you'll want something mechanical secondary based), I don't know that there is a clear advantage with one over the other, and I doubt that you could prove that one works better than the other (assuming both are tuned correctly for the application).

 

Personally, I feel the edelbrocks are simpler to setup and maintain, but I think most feel that holleys are more popular and there might be more information out there about.

 

FWIW, my '71 is the only carbed car that I own and it has an edlebrock on it...

[align=center]M a r k

'71 Mustang Mach 1 | M Code 351C (with 2bbl heads) | C6

aka: Silverback, WS6 TA, JYDog, 83 Crossfire TA, mpikas, mmp...[/align]

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Guest BigPinoyHunk

You're going to get different answers depending on the prefrences of the people answering. They both work, they both work well and unless it's a hardcore race application (where you'll want something mechanical secondary based), I don't know that there is a clear advantage with one over the other, and I doubt that you could prove that one works better than the other (assuming both are tuned correctly for the application).

 

Personally, I feel the edelbrocks are simpler to setup and maintain, but I think most feel that holleys are more popular and there might be more information out there about.

 

FWIW, my '71 is the only carbed car that I own and it has an edlebrock on it...

 

it all depends on the build, and the entire car. if you are going to get a new carb, you might as well think about a 4 barrel. that'll also make you get a new manifold. don't spend another dollar unless its a 4barrel. cuz if you do, you'll get a new 2 barrel, realize you want more power so you'll then get a intake and then a new 4 barrel.

 

most clevelands are thirsty, even stockish so a 750 would be good. and with mechanical secondaries, on dyno's they usually make around 25-40hp more than vacuum secondaries. the housing for the chokes and etc robs CFM which hurts power.

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I went with a new Edelbrock 750 Performer (with vacuum sec). It felt like it gained about 25-40hp, just from seat-of-pants dyno. I do have a 351-4v though with much bigger valves than your 351-2v. I agree, convert to 4 barrel with a new intake. But with stock 2v heads, i think you'll be over-carbed with 750cfm. I'd go Edelbrock 650 Thunder AVS instead. With vacuum secondarys, you'll have less chance of being over-carbed because VS only takes what it needs. The AVS secondarys are adjustable too.

I've been running the Edelbrock for about 5 years now on 91 pump gas with no rebuilding, no leaks and very little adjustment. Still runs great, excellent quality product.

1971 Mach1

351C-4v

C6 is history-->>now TKO-500

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Xoliex, he said he has a FMX. You dont put mechanical secondaries on a Cleveland mated to a FMX. So Dallas, you will need the Edelbrock 2750 alum intake (around $250) and the Holley model 80783C carb. It is a 4150 street carb with vac secondaries, ford kickdown, and electric choke. Its around $400 bucks. You can find infor for wiring the choke on this site using the search function. Its a 650 carb. It will run very well and you will not have spent a ton. If you have money to burn look at the 86670 alum ultra street avenger, or if you have a big cam and aftermarket heads look at the 770 cfm model 86770. These are proven bolt on performance carbs that work on our cars and allow everything else to work correctly as well. But are over $500 bucks too. The other intakes for the 2v engines require more room. If you have a NASA hood you can try them, if you have the plain hood they will not fit. And look up the mountains if info here on installing the intake. It will save you a lot of time and money. Edelbrock carbs work well also. I had one on my 1972 Bronco with a 302. But when i open my mustang hood i like seeing Holley. Personal preference.

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I bought this today for a basically stock 2V with an Edelbrock F351 intake and headers. It has a mild performance cam and puts out around 300hp.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=sum-m08600vs&dds=1

 

It comes with everything needed to mount it and your can get a nice air cleaner for 50 bucks or so and 4V manifolds are everywhere for 351 2V heads.

 

If you look up a CFM chart for cubic inches and max RPM you will see that even 351C 4V engines need less than 700 CFM or less for the street.

 

I had a 1973 2V heads with way too much cam, victor high rise intake, and an 780 double pumper on it and I thought it ran good. After much discussion an older and wiser car nut friend put on a 450 CFM Holley off of a dual 4 set up on my car and told me to go drive it. It was insane how much better it ran.

 

Since then I have never had more than 650 CFM on a street motor. I still run Predators on my race Clevelands but they are getting harder to find in usable shape. They are the most mis-understood carb ever made.

 

http://callieskustoms.com/CalliesKustoms-Predator.html

 

Hope this helps!

 

Paul of MO!

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I have Nasa hood, can you please give me the links of the two carbs model to avoid misunderstanding ? Do I neen to buy also an intake manifold ? Which model ? Do I neen also other things ?

Thanks

Regards

Francesco


Here some pics of the engine of my Stang and the carb DSCN7414.thumb.jpg.cb4b7db8d84a80b1e2f12f9efba9b6fa.jpgDSCN7414.thumb.jpg.cb4b7db8d84a80b1e2f12f9efba9b6fa.jpg

DSCN6591.thumb.jpg.5c77e13e6d743d8d4a382f5524dd7812.jpg

DSCN6593.thumb.jpg.b892b93dfd8baa36cee2be71fdef6080.jpg

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I am by no means a carb expert, but here's what I think.

 

Not sure if that carb is squarebore or spreadbore, but if squarebore and you want to use a Holley, you don't need to change the intake manifold. If it is a spreadbore then technically you don't need to change the manifold either, but you would need an adapter. I'm not a fan of using those so I would probably change the manifold.

 

If you plan to use a holly carb, I noticed your original has a throttle solenoid for the air conditioning to raise idle when it's on. You can get these for Holleys but they are a separate purchase and ~$100 US on their own.

 

If it were my car, here's what I would get:

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2750

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-46-74

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-20-47

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7265

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lct-37460

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-1850sa/overview/

 

Regarding above carb, I don't like automatic chokes so I would put in a manual choke cable and ditch the auto stuff. They can easily be found on Ebay.

 

If you still want an automatic choke then I would get this carb:

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-80458sa/overview/

 

Greg

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Thanks a lot

 

About the solenoid it was taken out and also the air conditioning unit

I have to check if my carb is spreadbore or squarebore

 

Thanks a lot

 

Fran

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That stock 2V looks pretty clean, but overall I am sure you will like the 4V set up much better! And, if you can keep out of the gas, the 4V will get better fuel economy. Until you mash the gas pedal.

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Hello

 

Tell me if I've understood well

Could I buy either Holley 80783C or model 86670 and use for both the Edelbrock aluminium intake 2750 ?

Will I need other modification or just the intake ?

 

Thanks a lot

 

Francesco

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Yes, you can use either carb, and that intake manifold. The only other thing you may have to modify would be the throttle cable.

Do you have an assortment of Holley ball stud ends already?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-20-2

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Ok so I need to buy the carb ( which of those 2 that I've indicated you would suggest me ? ) the intake and the kit you told me ( Holley ball stud ends )

 

Do you think that I could change the intake by myself ?

 

I'm not very expert but I've did several works on my Stang

 

Thanks a lot

 

Francesco

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Of those two the 80783C, but I don't understand why you'd want to spend the extra over the 80458SA. You don't need any more CFM on a stock motor.

 

Yes, if you can take the carb off and drain the coolant you can take of the intake yourself:)

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So I should buy

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-20-2

http://www.holley.com/0-80783C.asp

http://www.holley.com/20-124.asp

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2750

http://www.holley.com/34-150.asp

 

Any other parts ?

 

Best regards

 

Francesco

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of those two the 80783C, but I don't understand why you'd want to spend the extra over the 80458SA. You don't need any more CFM on a stock motor.

 

Yes, if you can take the carb off and drain the coolant you can take of the intake yourself:)

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Actually, the universal installation kit has the ball studs with it, so you do not need to buy the kit I showed you. Do you have a piece to match your stock fuel line, to the dual feed line shown? I don't see new intake manifold gaskets listed here..

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Round spacer for top of carb because the air cleaner housing doesnt fit perfectly over the 4barrel carb. I believe 1/2inch worked on mine without hitting the hood, but only barely. Then again i have a convertbl and my motor mounts are taller so you may be able to use a taller spacer.


Also the oem pcv hose is too large to stay on the new carbs. You will need to either put a sleeve of thin wall hose in the oem hose (my preference) or get a new piece of thinner hose.

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Does mechanical secondaries make more power even if you adjust the springs for the vac secondaries? I've always preferred vac 2nd because it seemed like a smoother transition. But that could also be tuning.

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Holley says you can go from "mild to wild" with a quick spring change on the secondaries on their street avenger series. Mechanical secondaries are for manual trans cars.

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