Tach No Longer Working

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bkelley

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2010
Messages
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Location
Las Vegas, NV
My Car
1973 Mustang Mach 1

• 351C-4V "Q-Code"
• Cammed, Hooker Longtubes, Edelbrock Manifold, Holley 600CFM, Glasspacks, Unknown Gears
• C4 Auto
My tach was working when I first started the restoration, but sometime since it has stopped. What would be the proper troubleshooting steps? Could it just be a fuse issue? Car isn't drivable at the moment (need tires) so I don't know if the speedometer is working or not.

 
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Seriously try this bang the dash panel right under the tach with the engine running.

Mine sticks from time to time.

Baring that there is one connection behind the dash for the tach with a connector plug, you could swap it out for another if yours is dead

If you do swap it you need to take the entire drivers side dash apart to get to the tach for replacement

 
Ouch

I would start with making sure all your connections are good..... car starts with no problems?
Yeah, car starts fine. The needle jumps around but that might just be from vibration.

Seriously try this bang the dash panel right under the tach with the engine running.

Mine sticks from time to time.

Baring that there is one connection behind the dash for the tach with a connector plug, you could swap it out for another if yours is dead

If you do swap it you need to take the entire drivers side dash apart to get to the tach for replacement
Alright, I'll trying banging on it next time I have it running.

 
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Does the car start and run? If it does the tach has not burned open so H Code is right. If tries to start until you release the key from the start to the run position you probably have a problem with the tach or tach wiring. The tach is in series with the run circuit (not one of Ford's better ideas). If the meter movement in the tach sees too much current the coil in the movement burns open and the car with not run. It will start as long as the key in the start position because there is a splice connection at connector C-216 (the gauge feed harness connector at upper firewall, driver's side). This is wire number 16 and is red with light green stripe. The power is provided from one of the two small connections on the starter solenoid as long as the starter relay is engaged (the key is in the start position). The tach side of the circuit has a current limiting resistor wire as part of the circuit. The wire number is 16. It is a small diameter and is also red with a light green stripe on it. It provides power to the coil when the key is in the run position. To test, use a voltmeter to check for voltage with the wire (red and light green) removed form the "BATT" small connection on the coil and the key in the run position. If you have voltage the tach is not open. Sorry I've become long winded. Just trying to help.

Chuck

 
Have you added an MSD box or equivlant?The tach will not work if you add one of these with out an adaptor.
I found this out the hard way, the tach still worked but it was about 2000 rpm off. It just gave me an excuse to buy an aftermarket tach and just hook it up straight to the msd box.

 
yes when using the MSD box remember to use the Tach adapter from MSD to use the factory tach properly.

also when you bang the dash don't knock out tyson, just give it some angry love.

 
yes when using the MSD box remember to use the Tach adapter from MSD to use the factory tach properly.

also when you bang the dash don't knock out tyson, just give it some angry love.
The tach adaptor PN is 8920 (current driven type, Ford)

Chuck

 
Does the car start and run? If it does the tach has not burned open so H Code is right. If tries to start until you release the key from the start to the run position you probably have a problem with the tach or tach wiring. The tach is in series with the run circuit (not one of Ford's better ideas). If the meter movement in the tach sees too much current the coil in the movement burns open and the car with not run. It will start as long as the key in the start position because there is a splice connection at connector C-216 (the gauge feed harness connector at upper firewall, driver's side). This is wire number 16 and is red with light green stripe. The power is provided from one of the two small connections on the starter solenoid as long as the starter relay is engaged (the key is in the start position). The tach side of the circuit has a current limiting resistor wire as part of the circuit. The wire number is 16. It is a small diameter and is also red with a light green stripe on it. It provides power to the coil when the key is in the run position. To test, use a voltmeter to check for voltage with the wire (red and light green) removed form the "BATT" small connection on the coil and the key in the run position. If you have voltage the tach is not open. Sorry I've become long winded. Just trying to help.

Chuck
Yes, the car starts and runs fine.

Have you added an MSD box or equivlant?The tach will not work if you add one of these with out an adaptor.
No box, just installed a Pertronix Ignitor. I am aware about the tach issue with the boxes, though.

 
HI guys

I found the website of the fellow that I talked with that will rebuild and rewire tachs from 71-3 cars. He rewires them so that they can be hooked up like a normal tach...I asked him if I was to do the rewire if he would send the pigtail from the tach back so that I would be able to wire a bypass so that the car would start and he was fine with that .

www.autoinstruments.com/ - Cached - Similar

 
You know you never mentioned , did you install a p1 p2 or p3 ignition?

If you installed the p3 ignitor that's why your tach stopped working, the p3 used a different tach signal then the earlier petronix units.

 
You know you never mentioned , did you install a p1 p2 or p3 ignition?

If you installed the p3 ignitor that's why your tach stopped working, the p3 used a different tach signal then the earlier petronix units.
It's the P1. And the tach had stopped working before I installed it so I'm hoping it'll just need a bump. Still haven't had the chance to check it out. Hopefully sometime this week.

 
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So, I went out and banged on it while it was running to see if it would get it to start working. No dice. The needle jumped when I hit it, but that was about it haha.

Good news is we go the door on straight, shuts real nice now.

 
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how did you run the power tap for the coil when you installed the p1?

did you use the Red/green ignition wire, or did you run a separate switched 12volt line for it?

 
how did you run the power tap for the coil when you installed the p1?

did you use the Red/green ignition wire, or did you run a separate switched 12volt line for it?
Just used the ignition wire.

 
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