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IA Rider's 73 Mach Project


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Working at fitting the frame rails. The angles are not good at the welded seams and they are about a quarter inch to long at the spring perches. The distance between the

rails at the shock mount cross member location is about 2" too wide.

 

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Steve

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Frame rails are welded back together. I still have to fit the torque boxes to the rockers and weld some reinforcements to the inside.

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So what is the plan?

 

I assume you are saying the takeoff angle from the torque boxes is wrong,  How is the width at the rear of the frame rails?  Can the 1/4 inch in length be made up at the torque box positioning?

 

I think you need to position front to back at the torques boxes.  Make sure all your spring perch holes are aligned.  Tack the torque boxes, then you will need to pull the frame rails in to close the 2 inch overage at the shock mount cross member.  I think that is what a restoration shop would do.

 

Where did you buy your metal?  Can you return the frame rails and try again? (That can be risk unless you walk in and measure all the inventory to find the best one.  Its all a matter of tools and skills.  Judging by your workshop and body cart, and the progress you have made I would say your tools and skills greatly exceed mine

 

Since you have all that metal out be sure to put the dual exhaust weld nuts in  if you are going with dual exhaust.  I wish I would have...

 

kcmash

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The frame rails came from NPD I have had them for several years. They make them in three pieces then weld them together.

 

The torque boxes had to be trimmed back at the rear lower corners where they meet the rocker panels. The frame table has the correct mounting points for the front and rear spring perches. The angles at the weld seams are off as well as the rear spring perch on the RH rail is welded in at an angle.

 

Before I removed the floor I scribed a line on the wheel houses to mark the location of the original floor for reference. Yesterday I cut the RH rail apart at the welds and removed pipe used as the rear spring perch. I ruined the pipe getting it out so I will have to have one made unless someone knows of a source to purchase one. I plan to set the floor in place then fit the rails to floor and the shock mount since i know the original location of the floor.

 

Adding the exhaust weld nuts if a good suggestion.

Steve

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I have both rails cut apart at the weld seams. Poor quality parts. It would have saved a lot of work if they would have come in three pieces. Took about 5 hours to cut them apart and clean up the welds. I had two bushings made for the rear spring perches at this point I should only have to replace the RH side.

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Steve

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Excellent work and write up! If possible could you take some pics of the rails welded to the floor and the new welds at the frame  rail cuts?

You're doing a great job!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mocking up the rails to the trunk floor shows a gap between the rail sections on one side and an overlap on the other. This is what I expected.  Instead of making the center sections RH & LH specific they compromised and used the same stamping for both sides. The center sections are missing a bend.

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There is a gap where the front of the inner wheelhouse meets the floor. The replacement wheelhouses have the same angle as the replacement floor.

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Floor setting in place.

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Steve

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I've seen some people here use POR 15 some others have used Rust Bullet

I Found this http://e-tekrestorations.blogspot.com/2014/07/1-year-update-por15-vs-rust-bullet-real.html

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I'd use POR15.  A couple thin coats should protect it for a very long time.  I tape off the the flanges, where they will be welded, because that stuff, once cured, is really tough to sand back to clean metal

Ron

The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, needs a lot of work.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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Along   with brushing some inside you can get the Eastwood kits with long wands you can spray the inside after weld.  Brushing the  coatings on works   better than spray you can get into corners much better. POR is also deadly to inhale. It cures on contact with moisture and will block your lungs. The supplier I bought from made that a big point several times.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the tips on the Por15. I welded some 16 gauge stiffeners to the inside of the frame rails to help reinforce the welded areas. When I finish cleaning up the welds I will brush on the por15 and use weld thru primer on the flange before I weld in the trunk floor.20201201_103808.thumb.jpg.65f9206b64da044b472aba48cdc0186b.jpg

The replacement floor and wheelhouse are different around the inner wheelhouse where the seatbelt nut fastens to the floor. Is this a model year difference?20201204_111524.thumb.jpg.d789d157e07aadcc2c5b7546bd24e10a.jpg

The next picture is the bottom side showing the rise. Has anyone eliminated this rise and put the seatbelt nut level with the replacement floor?20201204_173728.thumb.jpg.d7019763ec8f0740159c67e4e88c7af1.jpg

Steve

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Hey Steve, 

I don't know if anyone has eliminated the rise, but I just finished the passenger side earlier today.  I posted a write up and pictures in my build thread for The Rickster.    I've done it by cutting out a small section of the inner wheelhouse, and modifying the flange to fit, and also by leaving the flange in place and making my patch to fit it.  If you have any additional questions for me , I'll do my best to answer them for you.  Good luck with your project.  

Ron

Ron

The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, needs a lot of work.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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5 hours ago, 73MustangCoupe said:

Hey Steve, 

I don't know if anyone has eliminated the rise, but I just finished the passenger side earlier today.  I posted a write up and pictures in my build thread for The Rickster.    I've done it by cutting out a small section of the inner wheelhouse, and modifying the flange to fit, and also by leaving the flange in place and making my patch to fit it.  If you have any additional questions for me , I'll do my best to answer them for you.  Good luck with your project.  

Ron

I seen the post. Very nice work. I'm looking for the easy way out. If can just use a flat piece under the floor to weld the seatbelt nut to it will save me some time.

Steve

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In addition to what David said, if the floor pan doesn't drop down, you won't be able to plug weld it to the frame rails or the floor just behind the torque box.  It's a pain to modify, but I don't see how you can avoid it.

Ron

The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, needs a lot of work.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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The replacement floor and full trunk floor along with the replacement wheelhouse are stamped differently than my 73. The floor is flat without the rise and no hole or welded nut for the seatbelt. The wheelhouse is wider in the front. In the picture above and to the left of the yellow sticker you can see the gap between the original wheelhouse and the replacement floor. Did Dynacorn copy these parts from a 71 or 72? If the earlier cars are different how did they attach the seatbelt? If the early ones are different could someone post a picture?

Steve

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When ford changed to retractable rear seat belts they changed the inner wheelhouse and the floor to make room for the retractor. The wheelhouse was narrowed in the front. I purchased both inner wheelhouses from dynacorn a couple years ago when I bought the floor. I unpacked the RH at that time and seen it was the early style fixed seat belt version. This weekend I unpacked the LH wheelhouse to discover it is the later retractable style.20201212_104903.thumb.jpg.473aeb7c480bcc5f0b09d7e103bf18eb.jpg20201211_151127.thumb.jpg.0fa7748985132e5a7074b1f724dde18f.jpg20201211_150848.thumb.jpg.6fd4e6ca0c3d5e98eec2a48c0a288fe5.jpg

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As you can see by the pics this will definately effect the max tire width. Does anyone know if another company sells the wider early style LH wheelhouse?

Steve

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