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Edelbrock 351w top end kit vs 408 stroker, or both?


slobin3d
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I've been doing a lot of reading and researching and wishing and dreaming, and decided I don't know what I want! lol

 

I have my mustang restoration expert/guru/sensei, the one who's teaching me the proper methods or car restoration (free of charge) who owns a 68 cougar that has a 408 stroker and worked iron heads, and he loves it, sings it's praises every time he drives it.

 

I have a good buddy who owns a 88 cougar that he swapped in a 351 that has the edelbrock top end kit (aluminum heads, intake, cam) as well as other bottom end work. He loves it, it's been several years on both engines and both run really strong and get driven quite often.

 

My question, why do I hang out with cougar people, whats the advantage of either option and disadvantage. Why couldn't you mix the two and build a monster motor?

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The 408, with it's longer stroke, will make a lot more low-end torque, as well as good top end horsepower, and still be a good mannered daily driver. For the 351 to make the same top end power will require more cam and higher compression and won't be as easy to drive on the street. Building up the 351 will likely be somewhat lower cost.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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If u can afford it go to dss racing for a stroker kit. They are the small block ford gods when it comes to stroking a sbf. All my small block ford friends buy kits from them and they are bulletproof!!! Great customer service and high quality parts.

THE HOOFBEAT IS LOUDER THAN THE HEARTBEAT!!!!!

SINCE 1964

 

 

 

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Why pick on "cougar" people? I have three of my own!

Guys that build Fords, mustangs, pick ups, Torino's, what have you, are still building a hot rod Ford product. Take advantage of everybody else's experience, they can save you money!

And in regards to why not stroke and get the top end kit, the bottom line there, is the bottom line.

A 408 C, with aluminum heads and a lumpy cam has got to be fun, with the right trans and gears! It just depends on what you want, and how much you can spend on the project...

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That kit would work great on a 408 Stroker. I built one with an Eagle Stroker kit for my 86 F150. Edelbrock Performer RPM heads and intake, and their Rollin' Thunder roller cam. I wanted a roller cam, which is why I didn't go with the Performer RPM cam. That kit should give you lots of low end torque plus about 450 hp on the top end. Can you say, "tire smoke"? :cool:

Ron

The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, being restored as a tribute to my brother who passed away with COVID in July 2020.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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I recently just built a 408W all forged internals, flat top pistons, main gurdle, 541 544 lift comp cam hyd flat tappet, edelbrock performer intake, Harland sharp rocker arms, AFR 205 alum heads, 750 carb most likely will have to switch to an 850 with a spacer, ive probably got more than $6k invested into this build including MSD 6al2, MSD distributor, plugs wires headers etc. all I can say is I love this motor, I haven't gotten gears yet im still working out kinks with other stuff. most likely a posi rear with either 375 or 383 gears or w/e

also got a c6 trans with reverse valve body and 3200 stall

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there is a tko 6 speed with SBF bell housing and nice clutch setup for sale on CL here that I'd like. that was p\my plan for my car in the first place, I'm dropping the FMX in favor of a more modern drive train. my ideal was a windsor in some form, and a 6 speed OD trans and a 8.8 with disk brakes. And possibly if I can work it out a IRS out of a later model mustang or cougar/thunderbird.

 

http://greatfalls.craigslist.org/pts/4034723910.html

 

I want the engine to build useable power through the entire band, I don't plan on spending all my time a 6k RPM, I would like to buildf it as light as possible, I want the car to handle, I have plans to update the front end with coilovers and new control arms, either a MII front end, or something like the TCP coilover conversion

 

I want this car to be D.D. capable, and cruiseable, get decent mileage considering, and still put you in the back seat if you hit the gas too hard. Thats not too much to ask is it. I'm not looking for a drag car, defiantly not a restoration, but something that I can take to a SSCA event and do OK at, or drive to the movies, or take a weekend trip across the state. Montana has a lot of open road, and more then a few fun twisty back roads!

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I want a Porsche 356 replica with a mid engine Subaru drive train... but there is a 5-year waiting list. Could you imaguns a custom built 1,500 pound modern mid engine car that looks like a 356?

 

Check out specialty auto sports in TN

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I want a Porsche 356 replica with a mid engine Subaru drive train... but there is a 5-year waiting list. Could you imaguns a custom built 1,500 pound modern mid engine car that looks like a 356?

 

Check out specialty auto sports in TN

 

now that would be fun, I do have a Mercedes 300E that even for a 4 door, handles the twisty stuff really well, and is quite quick, but there's just something about the nasty American V8 rumble that even the best European cars cant touch! Even if it will never handle like a BMW M3 or a Porsche still gotta give it a try. lol

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I've been running a 408W for many years now and would never look back. The one thing I would say is that I think the engine makes more power with iron heads than with aluminum. I'm not sure how this is possible, but it is true in my case. I have run Performer RPM heads and I have a set of heavily ported and reworked Windsor Sr. iron heads from World Products. The World heads make more power on the dyno. If I were to do this again, I would probably bolt on my Cleveland 4V heads and make even more power.

 

As for intake, I wouldn't go for a dual plane intake at any cost on a stroked 351. A single plane is great on a stroker because the extra cylinder volume does not require a dual plane to compensate for torque loss at low RPM. I'm currently gathering the components to go to SEFI with MAF and EDIS8 to eliminate the distributor.

1971 Mustang fastback: 10.3:1 C90E 408W hydroller - CDAN4 EEC-V w/EDIS8, girdled, lowered and caged

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i had wondered about the intake that they offered in the top end kit and if it would be too tall for the nasa hood, Edelbrock also makes a clevor top end kit that isn't much more, and the larger valves may really accentuate the strokers need to breathe.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2060

 

Or should I look into doing all custom stuff, a good set of twisted wedge heads or something, a custom cam, and piece and part it all together and hope I get it right?

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i had wondered about the intake that they offered in the top end kit and if it would be too tall for the nasa hood, Edelbrock also makes a clevor top end kit that isn't much more, and the larger valves may really accentuate the strokers need to breathe.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2060

 

Or should I look into doing all custom stuff, a good set of twisted wedge heads or something, a custom cam, and piece and part it all together and hope I get it right?

 

If you really want to do it right, run a set of Edelbrock Victor Jr. or AFR 205 heads. Regardless of whether you stroke it or not, run a single plane intake like a Torker II 351W. Also consider running a 1" carb spacer and a Demon 750cfm carb. Cam selection should include no duration less than 280* advertised or 220* @ 0.050" and lobe center should be 110* or less. A combo like this will guarantee you some grins on a properly built up short block and expect no less than 450 hp and 500 ft lbs of torque if stroked to 408 with 10:1 compression.

1971 Mustang fastback: 10.3:1 C90E 408W hydroller - CDAN4 EEC-V w/EDIS8, girdled, lowered and caged

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