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One owner 1971 Mach 1 value?


happystang
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I found this 1971 Mach 1 sitting in the original owners driveway, the man purchased the car new in 1970.

 

It's a factory 351 cleveland 4bbl (M code) with a C6 auto. The car runs and drives, motor was rebuilt a few years ago along with the paint being resprayed in the original color combo. It was apparently pulled out of storage recently, the owner can't drive it because of his age now.

 

Just from looking at it, options wise (from what I saw) it has:

 

351 4bbl cleveland

C6 auto

Mach 1

Deluxe interior

AC

Door speakers

Rear Speakers

8 track

Power Disc brakes

Tinted glass

Console

 

 

It appears to be very well optioned, especially being a big block car.

 

The body is super straight, floors and quarter panels are rust free, just really dusty and covered in dirt. The original interior is MINT with the exception of the dash being a little cracked from the sun. (But who's seen a perfect mustang dash anyways?)

 

Mileage is 101k original miles. It has 4000 miles on the rebuild, that's when the owner could not drive the car as much. All it needs is a battery to be driving again. Looks to even have all the smog equipment on it still.

 

I've worked on a fair share of mustangs, never a 71-73 car before and don't know too much about value. He's asking 15k and won't budge at all off the price, which I don't think is too crazy considering it's condition, rarity and the fact that it's one owner.

 

I've attached some pictures of the car, needs a thorough cleaning! (You can see my '69 convertible in the corner hehe)

 

1513298618_photo5(2).thumb.JPG.b05d1a49deb70ecfd3279d69177b2abf.JPG938967524_photo1(7).thumb.JPG.4c032a8cf6e18569de8373fa9f50872f.JPG679871657_photo4(3).thumb.JPG.fea4f49ced0e2fed79bc06378baf74b4.JPG715727012_photo2(7).thumb.JPG.9d46f416f80d030bef2237e800dc5ca8.JPG

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Well he is wanting three times what he paid for it LOL. I would offer $9000 and see if he takes it. It almost looks like the front wheels are 15 inch and rears are 14 inch.

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$15,000.00 is Waaaaaaaaay Too MUCH!!!....I purchased my original owner 73 CJ 4 speed "Highly Optioned" Mach 1, also from San Jose for $12,500.00 & could have gone lower but I liked & respected the widow who was selling her deceased husband's "Pride & Joy"....I agree with mweeps, start at $9,000.00 & cap yourself at $10,000.00....BRING the CASH!!!...Mark

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Ya, based on the info listed, and figuring that basically all parts are original which means hoses, belts, and other little things will have to be changed soon, you wouldn't want to go over 11k at most. I got my restored 72mach last year and it ran me closer to high teens for it but a lot of work was done to it and that's the price you pay in CA. But what I would do is this, go back with a good amount of money like the guys above said and start by looking the car completely over and start pointing out things here and there that you know will cost you money to replace. If the guy is a car person, he too knows how pricy that stuff can get and should realize that A.) it's gonna cost you more once you get it and B.) you are a mustang person and can appreciate a car like that....see what happens from there. Good Luck!


Better yet, drive a few hours and come get this one and I'll help you get the price down. We can get it for almost 5 grand less when its all said and done and even though it needs some interior work, you don't have to fork out as much and can do what you want to the inside....let me know.


Link http://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/4053375385.html

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Of all people. Should we be the ones to perpetrate the myth?

2rr7aiv.png

 

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.

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Ya, based on the info listed, and figuring that basically all parts are original which means hoses, belts, and other little things will have to be changed soon, you wouldn't want to go over 11k at most. I got my restored 72mach last year and it ran me closer to high teens for it but a lot of work was done to it and that's the price you pay in CA. But what I would do is this, go back with a good amount of money like the guys above said and start by looking the car completely over and start pointing out things here and there that you know will cost you money to replace. If the guy is a car person, he too knows how pricy that stuff can get and should realize that A.) it's gonna cost you more once you get it and B.) you are a mustang person and can appreciate a car like that....see what happens from there. Good Luck!


Better yet, drive a few hours and come get this one and I'll help you get the price down. We can get it for almost 5 grand less when its all said and done and even though it needs some interior work, you don't have to fork out as much and can do what you want to the inside....let me know.


Link http://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/4053375385.html

I truly believe that "kindersmach" is offering you..Excellent Advice on what seems to be a GREAT starting point on a factory RAM AIR Mach 1....I would without question nor hesitation choose the RAM AIR Mach 1 over the Mach 1 in San Jose. If the RAM AIR Mach 1 was a factory 4 speed car, it would ALREADY be in my garage!!!....NO autos for me!!!....Real Men Need 3 Pedals:D.....Mark
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Ya, based on the info listed, and figuring that basically all parts are original which means hoses, belts, and other little things will have to be changed soon, you wouldn't want to go over 11k at most. I got my restored 72mach last year and it ran me closer to high teens for it but a lot of work was done to it and that's the price you pay in CA. But what I would do is this, go back with a good amount of money like the guys above said and start by looking the car completely over and start pointing out things here and there that you know will cost you money to replace. If the guy is a car person, he too knows how pricy that stuff can get and should realize that A.) it's gonna cost you more once you get it and B.) you are a mustang person and can appreciate a car like that....see what happens from there. Good Luck!


Better yet, drive a few hours and come get this one and I'll help you get the price down. We can get it for almost 5 grand less when its all said and done and even though it needs some interior work, you don't have to fork out as much and can do what you want to the inside....let me know.


Link http://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/4053375385.html

 

Look closely at the ad, says San Jose built yet has "F" code in the VIN. M code trumps Ram Air H code!


Ya, based on the info listed, and figuring that basically all parts are original which means hoses, belts, and other little things will have to be changed soon, you wouldn't want to go over 11k at most. I got my restored 72mach last year and it ran me closer to high teens for it but a lot of work was done to it and that's the price you pay in CA. But what I would do is this, go back with a good amount of money like the guys above said and start by looking the car completely over and start pointing out things here and there that you know will cost you money to replace. If the guy is a car person, he too knows how pricy that stuff can get and should realize that A.) it's gonna cost you more once you get it and B.) you are a mustang person and can appreciate a car like that....see what happens from there. Good Luck!


Better yet, drive a few hours and come get this one and I'll help you get the price down. We can get it for almost 5 grand less when its all said and done and even though it needs some interior work, you don't have to fork out as much and can do what you want to the inside....let me know.


Link http://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/4053375385.html

I truly believe that "kindersmach" is offering you..Excellent Advice on what seems to be a GREAT starting point on a factory RAM AIR Mach 1....I would without question nor hesitation choose the RAM AIR Mach 1 over the Mach 1 in San Jose. If the RAM AIR Mach 1 was a factory 4 speed car, it would ALREADY be in my garage!!!....NO autos for me!!!....Real Men Need 3 Pedals:D.....Mark

 

Mark I have several replies for your "real men" statement but since we aren't in the VIP Section I will ignore it, I don't want to offend the regulars! roflrofl Even though it would be good natured fun.

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If you don't want to pay his price, make your offers and then go back a few days later, to see if he's still got it. You could leave your phone number, but he might not call you back.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Ya, based on the info listed, and figuring that basically all parts are original which means hoses, belts, and other little things will have to be changed soon, you wouldn't want to go over 11k at most. I got my restored 72mach last year and it ran me closer to high teens for it but a lot of work was done to it and that's the price you pay in CA. But what I would do is this, go back with a good amount of money like the guys above said and start by looking the car completely over and start pointing out things here and there that you know will cost you money to replace. If the guy is a car person, he too knows how pricy that stuff can get and should realize that A.) it's gonna cost you more once you get it and B.) you are a mustang person and can appreciate a car like that....see what happens from there. Good Luck!


Better yet, drive a few hours and come get this one and I'll help you get the price down. We can get it for almost 5 grand less when its all said and done and even though it needs some interior work, you don't have to fork out as much and can do what you want to the inside....let me know.


Link http://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/4053375385.html

 

Look closely at the ad, says San Jose built yet has "F" code in the VIN. M code trumps Ram Air H code!


Ya, based on the info listed, and figuring that basically all parts are original which means hoses, belts, and other little things will have to be changed soon, you wouldn't want to go over 11k at most. I got my restored 72mach last year and it ran me closer to high teens for it but a lot of work was done to it and that's the price you pay in CA. But what I would do is this, go back with a good amount of money like the guys above said and start by looking the car completely over and start pointing out things here and there that you know will cost you money to replace. If the guy is a car person, he too knows how pricy that stuff can get and should realize that A.) it's gonna cost you more once you get it and B.) you are a mustang person and can appreciate a car like that....see what happens from there. Good Luck!


Better yet, drive a few hours and come get this one and I'll help you get the price down. We can get it for almost 5 grand less when its all said and done and even though it needs some interior work, you don't have to fork out as much and can do what you want to the inside....let me know.


Link http://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/4053375385.html

I truly believe that "kindersmach" is offering you..Excellent Advice on what seems to be a GREAT starting point on a factory RAM AIR Mach 1....I would without question nor hesitation choose the RAM AIR Mach 1 over the Mach 1 in San Jose. If the RAM AIR Mach 1 was a factory 4 speed car, it would ALREADY be in my garage!!!....NO autos for me!!!....Real Men Need 3 Pedals:D.....Mark

 

Mark I have several replies for your "real men" statement but since we aren't in the VIP Section I will ignore it, I don't want to offend the regulars! roflrofl Even though it would be good natured fun.

Hello mweeps; Could you imagine Steve McQueen driving an "auto" in the MOST FAMOUS car chase in cinema history???!!!....OOOOOOOOOOOH the HORROR!!!!!!...Mark

 

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First of all a 351 cleveland is not a big block, but, if it had the big block (429), ram air, and 4 speed it would be a steal at 15,000. judging from the condition it's in now I am going to say no more than 12,000. But as everyone else has said "if you like it, and want it, then pay what makes you happy. It is a good looking car and very worthy of restoring.

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First of all a 351 cleveland is not a big block, but, if it had the big block (429), ram air, and 4 speed it would be a steal at 15,000. judging from the condition it's in now I am going to say no more than 12,000. But as everyone else has said "if you like it, and want it, then pay what makes you happy. It is a good looking car and very worthy of restoring.

 

Some people call it a big block because of the size of the heads. Always wondered about those Chevy guys that say "I got a 350 Big Block." What size is the smallest Big Block? 352 FE motor?


Ya, based on the info listed, and figuring that basically all parts are original which means hoses, belts, and other little things will have to be changed soon, you wouldn't want to go over 11k at most. I got my restored 72mach last year and it ran me closer to high teens for it but a lot of work was done to it and that's the price you pay in CA. But what I would do is this, go back with a good amount of money like the guys above said and start by looking the car completely over and start pointing out things here and there that you know will cost you money to replace. If the guy is a car person, he too knows how pricy that stuff can get and should realize that A.) it's gonna cost you more once you get it and B.) you are a mustang person and can appreciate a car like that....see what happens from there. Good Luck!


Better yet, drive a few hours and come get this one and I'll help you get the price down. We can get it for almost 5 grand less when its all said and done and even though it needs some interior work, you don't have to fork out as much and can do what you want to the inside....let me know.


Link http://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/4053375385.html

 

Look closely at the ad, says San Jose built yet has "F" code in the VIN. M code trumps Ram Air H code!


I truly believe that "kindersmach" is offering you..Excellent Advice on what seems to be a GREAT starting point on a factory RAM AIR Mach 1....I would without question nor hesitation choose the RAM AIR Mach 1 over the Mach 1 in San Jose. If the RAM AIR Mach 1 was a factory 4 speed car, it would ALREADY be in my garage!!!....NO autos for me!!!....Real Men Need 3 Pedals:D.....Mark

 

Mark I have several replies for your "real men" statement but since we aren't in the VIP Section I will ignore it, I don't want to offend the regulars! roflrofl Even though it would be good natured fun.

Hello mweeps; Could you imagine Steve McQueen driving an "auto" in the MOST FAMOUS car chase in cinema history???!!!....OOOOOOOOOOOH the HORROR!!!!!!...Mark

 

The soundtrack would be a little different and maybe the Charger wouldn't have lost 16 Hubcaps :D

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First of all a 351 cleveland is not a big block, but, if it had the big block (429), ram air, and 4 speed it would be a steal at 15,000. judging from the condition it's in now I am going to say no more than 12,000. But as everyone else has said "if you like it, and want it, then pay what makes you happy. It is a good looking car and very worthy of restoring.

 

Some people call it a big block because of the size of the heads. Always wondered about those Chevy guys that say "I got a 350 Big Block." What size is the smallest Big Block? 352 FE motor?


 

Look closely at the ad, says San Jose built yet has "F" code in the VIN. M code trumps Ram Air H code!


 

Mark I have several replies for your "real men" statement but since we aren't in the VIP Section I will ignore it, I don't want to offend the regulars! roflrofl Even though it would be good natured fun.

Hello mweeps; Could you imagine Steve McQueen driving an "auto" in the MOST FAMOUS car chase in cinema history???!!!....OOOOOOOOOOOH the HORROR!!!!!!...Mark

 

The soundtrack would be a little different and maybe the Charger wouldn't have lost 16 Hubcaps :D

Count how many times the GREEN Volkswagen is seen!!!....that is "1" FAST Volkswagen. What's interesting to note is the inaccuracy of the chase locations...."1" second the cars are at the "Marina Greens" (close to Golden Gate Bridge), then the next scene are 5 miles AWAY in Brisbane...Can't "Double Clutch" an auto!!!...."3 Pedals RULE"!!!:P:P:P:heart::heart::heart:

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:)

I have some concerns about claim of 1st owner original, But if you can document things think about whether u can make this work as a survivor. If it can be a good running basically nice interior original paint 71, they are only original once. Survivors can be worth more if it can qualify and thats what you want, may be worth the price. Can you buff the paint and bring it back, can the interior be cleaned and be nice?

 

Just something to consider.

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If all sounds right and original paint and looks like it can be buffed out..could be a cool survivor..but seems a bit high...But not out of site.

 

 

3 pedals are great till you get stuck on a hill in down town Seattle on oil slick hills that feel like you are going to take off in the space shuttle..lol...Wanna talk about a waste of a good clutch ;)...I'm sure Jim knows what im talking about ...But i do like a stick over all thou..lol

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How about before you offer, It gets a bath and battery. Then take a good look and see if she will start. Let him know your a serious buyer and he may work with you.

 

I doubt he will budge much but I am sure he will wiggle some. Tell him 9 unless you can hear it run and see clean paint.

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How about before you offer, It gets a bath and battery. Then take a good look and see if she will start. Let him know your a serious buyer and he may work with you.

 

I doubt he will budge much but I am sure he will wiggle some. Tell him 9 unless you can hear it run and see clean paint.

 

DONT DO THAT !

 

Do nothing to make the car better before you own it, If it looks too good he will either not sell it or raise the price

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How about before you offer, It gets a bath and battery. Then take a good look and see if she will start. Let him know your a serious buyer and he may work with you.

 

I doubt he will budge much but I am sure he will wiggle some. Tell him 9 unless you can hear it run and see clean paint.

 

DONT DO THAT !

 

Do nothing to make the car better before you own it, If it looks too good he will either not sell it or raise the price

The approach you are suggesting is a potentially EXPENSIVE GAMBLE!!!...I personally would WANT to know the condition of ALL systems, "Electrical", "Drive Train", "Suspension", etc, etc, prior to making an "Educated Price Offering". Waaaaaaaay too Many variables that can quickly turn the car into a "Money Pit"....Information is power!!!....an informed buyer is an educated buyer...For example, you choose the..."Let's Gamble" attitude/approach & lowball the car at $9,000.00. Only to find out the block is cracked, the transmission is toast, the differential gears are chipped, etc, etc,...NOW your "Bargain" Mach 1 is an Expensive BROKE Mach 1....rolling the dice is for Las Vegas...NOT educated car buying!!!!....Mark
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How about before you offer, It gets a bath and battery. Then take a good look and see if she will start. Let him know your a serious buyer and he may work with you.

 

I doubt he will budge much but I am sure he will wiggle some. Tell him 9 unless you can hear it run and see clean paint.

 

DONT DO THAT !

 

Do nothing to make the car better before you own it, If it looks too good he will either not sell it or raise the price

The approach you are suggesting is a potentially EXPENSIVE GAMBLE!!!...I personally would WANT to know the condition of ALL systems, "Electrical", "Drive Train", "Suspension", etc, etc, prior to making an "Educated Price Offering". Waaaaaaaay too Many variables that can quickly turn the car into a "Money Pit"....Information is power!!!....an informed buyer is an educated buyer...For example, you choose the..."Let's Gamble" attitude/approach & lowball the car at $9,000.00. Only to find out the block is cracked, the transmission is toast, the differential gears are chipped, etc, etc,...NOW your "Bargain" Mach 1 is an Expensive BROKE Mach 1....rolling the dice is for Las Vegas...NOT educated car buying!!!!....Mark

 

 

I reiterate do nothing on the car to make it better if you plan on negotiating price with an incalcitrant seller and there are a plethora of non dynamic tests that can be done to get an appx idea on engine cond.

 

The potential buyer obviously does not want to go the $15,000 and if he does all the work getting it to run it is unlikely this would strengthen his bargaining position with this seller.

 

If on the other hand you wish to pay the full $15,000 price, do so with a proviso that it must run and be in a pre agreed condition that is the minimum you would accept for that price.

 

Then put it all in writing and have it signed by the seller. Give him a refundable deposit and go to work on it , bring a mechanic if you are unknowledgeable and have all systems checked.

 

If at the end of all this it meets your requirements pay the rest owed and take it home , if it does not then get your deposit back or at that point negotiate price if you decide you still want it.

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How about before you offer, It gets a bath and battery. Then take a good look and see if she will start. Let him know your a serious buyer and he may work with you.

 

I doubt he will budge much but I am sure he will wiggle some. Tell him 9 unless you can hear it run and see clean paint.

 

DONT DO THAT !

 

Do nothing to make the car better before you own it, If it looks too good he will either not sell it or raise the price

The approach you are suggesting is a potentially EXPENSIVE GAMBLE!!!...I personally would WANT to know the condition of ALL systems, "Electrical", "Drive Train", "Suspension", etc, etc, prior to making an "Educated Price Offering". Waaaaaaaay too Many variables that can quickly turn the car into a "Money Pit"....Information is power!!!....an informed buyer is an educated buyer...For example, you choose the..."Let's Gamble" attitude/approach & lowball the car at $9,000.00. Only to find out the block is cracked, the transmission is toast, the differential gears are chipped, etc, etc,...NOW your "Bargain" Mach 1 is an Expensive BROKE Mach 1....rolling the dice is for Las Vegas...NOT educated car buying!!!!....Mark

 

I'm sorry but have to ask. Exactly what are your credentials when it comes to classic car sales/negotiations? You seem rather addament in your position. Or is this just one mans opinion?

2rr7aiv.png

 

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.

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Looks like a nice car, if really is an unmolested, one owner "rust free" 71 M Code that just needs a battery to drive it home his asking price isn't that all unreasonable. My concern, since he's making that claim and asking at the top end...why doesn't the seller put a battery in it? Is it because he's physically unable to or is he a sly fox?

 

I've heard of potential buyers getting the cars running and the seller realizes it's now worth more so ups the price or decides to keep it. If he was only asking 7K I would definitely "not" put a battery in to see if runs...but before paying 15K I would have to test drive it, if he raised the price I would walk away since it really isn't a steal at 15K even if it does start up.

 

Jim

Jim

 

M code 71 Mach 1, 351 4V Cleveland, Ram Air (not factory), C6 Trans, 3.5 rear

 

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Looks like a nice car, if really is an unmolested, one owner "rust free" 71 M Code that just needs a battery to drive it home his asking price isn't that all unreasonable. My concern, since he's making that claim and asking at the top end...why doesn't the seller put a battery in it? Is it because he's physically unable to or is he a sly fox?

 

I've heard of potential buyers getting the cars running and the seller realizes it's now worth more so ups the price or decides to keep it. If he was only asking 7K I would definitely "not" put a battery in to see if runs...but before paying 15K I would have to test drive it, if he raised the price I would walk away since it really isn't a steal at 15K even if it does start up.

 

Jim

 

Jim I completely agree , if the seller has it listed at a reasonable price don't add value to it by getting it running for him ,

 

on the other hand if the price is firm at the "high" asking price then do whatever it takes to see how well it operates , but I would add if the buyer really, really wants the car at that high price get everything in writing so when and if the car is running the seller can't legally back out of the deal

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