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Tips and tricks........


MachSport72
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Ok fella's, here's one we all need to throw our ideas to. Maybe even make it a sticky.

 

Got a better way to remove something? Got a home-made tool to get the job done easier? Forgot how to do those "simple things" you were taught in shop class? You saw something on another forum that would work for our cars? Let's bring some things to our board!

 

Here's one I saw elsewhere..

 

Overnight rust/paint removal. It can be done with great results!

 

If your grinding, wire wheeling, scraping and sanding to remove rust then your wasting your time, especially with a car that has a lot of rust. The best method for removing rust I have found is this chemical process. I'm not talking about auto part store bottles of rust remover that take 500 applications or aircraft strippers that take a weeks worth of time to work.

 

For this job your going to need 4 products. Most of which can be found at your local hardware store. Muratic acid, paint remover, and acetone. The 4th is ospho (phosphoric acid)

I'm currently writing and transfering the article. It's a bit winded. Till then, here's a quick before and after.

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2.thumb.jpg.f8f85c5376631c1a031a9c866c79bbb6.jpg

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When the chemicals are applied in the proper order, the process happens overnight is what it said when working on small areas. He wanted to be thorough and document all steps with photos, so I think it may have been over a weekend. But at the end of the weekend, the floor and engine bay were in primer and ready for paint. Here's the floorpans.....

A1.thumb.jpg.deaf0b41031b6dd6d382045da2eebeb7.jpg

A2.thumb.jpg.44fad40ab64162057a7b6b9015783915.jpg

A3.thumb.jpg.fb16bb03da818fa36632ad913a12c14e.jpg

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My, my but that is certainly something to look into based on your post and the pictures.

 

I, too, am looking forward to reading the article and testing the procedure.

 

Very good input, MACHSPORT 72 - - THANKS for sharing!!

 

BT

Do the RIGHT thing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey MachSport72 -

 

I'll be happy to rep you TWICE if you can post the article or point us in the right direction. :)

 

Doc

Doc

Project started 8-7-10

Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system

Current "mini-project": interior upgrade :-/

[button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=76]Doc's Garage[/button][button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-mustang-convertible-restoration-and-modification]Doc's Wiki[/button]

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Machsport72 hasn't been on here since 9/1/10. I don't know where he's been.:(

My garage http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=40

 

73 mach 1 351c 4v cc ported, torker2, 750 edelbrock,C6.

73 fastback 351c 2v,performer intake,600 edelbrock,fmx, 325 trac-lok.

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Machsport72 hasn't been on here since 9/1/10. I don't know where he's been.:(

Removing rust the good old fashioned way..It's called Elbow grease :P

 

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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Machsport72 hasn't been on here since 9/1/10. I don't know where he's been.:(

Removing rust the good old fashioned way..It's called Elbow grease :P

 

 

This post certainly got my attention... too good to be true?

 

Based on the lack of response from the original poster in more than 5 months, it would appear so. I thought so when I read the original post. Time for me to stock up on a few gallons of elbow grease, like Scott (QCode) said.

 

Doc

 

Doc

Doc

Project started 8-7-10

Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system

Current "mini-project": interior upgrade :-/

[button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=76]Doc's Garage[/button][button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-mustang-convertible-restoration-and-modification]Doc's Wiki[/button]

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Klean Strip Aircraft paint remover in the gallon worked for me and it only takes minutes for it to work. I believe I used 2 gallons to do the roof, sides and trunk. Fast and easy if you're going down to bare metal. Probably cost cheaper than buying multiple ingredients and not to mention the time saved from mixing and such.

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Like Doc, I'm skeptical of miracle cures in my cars and in my life. However, the pics posted looked pretty amazing and surely worth an open mind with some documentation.

 

I've never tried greasing my elbows before turning on my grinder :D. I'll have to try it.

 

Mark

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Like Doc, I'm skeptical of miracle cures in my cars and in my life. However, the pics posted looked pretty amazing and surely worth an open mind with some documentation.

 

I've never tried greasing my elbows before turning on my grinder :D. I'll have to try it.

 

Mark

 

LOL! :rofl:

Doc

Project started 8-7-10

Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system

Current "mini-project": interior upgrade :-/

[button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=76]Doc's Garage[/button][button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-mustang-convertible-restoration-and-modification]Doc's Wiki[/button]

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  • 1 year later...

anyone try to pm him

Eric

[button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=45]Visit My Garage[/button]

 

a58hgh.jpg

DRIVE IT DON'T STORE IT!

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Nope. I was just wondering what ever became of this thread. I also tend to agree that applying all of those chemicals, no matter what the order, would create a toxic mess that someone would probably not want to be around while it's "cooking."

 

Then... how to dispose of the 'run-off?' I'm sure the EPA would have fits.

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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paint remover for paint ,muratic for rust, acetone for tar, ospho to finish, it needs to be cleaned and neutralized. I used muratic acid in the 80's with my dad wipes rust right of needs to be rinses and washed with baking soda.

2w6ugt2.png

Brad Smith

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