choke question

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MattSinger

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Davison, Mi
My Car
71 Mustang 302 auto
OK, so on a 71 with a 302 2V....The stock carb seems to have a hot air pipe from the choke that went to the exhaust manifold. The previous owner put headers on the car, but the pipe is still connected to the choke and the other end is just hanging off the side of the engine. Is this pipe supposed to be connected to the exhaust??..as in exhaust gas goes through the pipe?

 
Not exactly. The stock configuration has fresh air coming from the air cleaner going down to the manifold where it enters a small tube and then out to the choke tube. That air only gets heated and does not mix with exhaust gases.

 
so in the current setup with the headers, the pipe could just be attached to a homemade bracket that is attached to a header pipe?

 
Sure. You need some way to rapidly heat up the air in the choke tube, though, as that controls the rate of the opening of the choke.

 
I think I can do this...when I was looking at it without the stock manifold there....I didint realize it only moves air heated from the manifold.

 
I"m fairly certain you had converted the choke to electric. I think the Holley models "should" work. The late 70s models 2BBL carbs had electric assist so you can probably get one of those as well. I'm very happy with my electric choke on my Edelbrock 1403.

Note the choke stove in the link above - I put one on a few years ago and wasn't overly impressed by it's performance. While the heat certainly opened the choke over time it seemed MUCH slower than before.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
My 71 had exactly same issue. I removed the pipe, and converted to an electric choke. I had a Holley 2100 carb, so got their elec choke conversion kit.

If you get an electric choke, make sure you plan out where the +12V is coming from. I tapped into the wiper power on the firewall, but there may be better options.

Perhaps Randy from Midlife Harnesses will chime in with best place to bet 12V for this elec unit. If he doesn't see this, ask him directly. They guys knows his way around the wires in our cars...

Jay

 
There was another post about this recently. The fourth plug on the temp, oil, ammeter plug should provide 12V keyed power. Worst case you can use the hot side of the coil until you run another line from somewhere. You also need to plug the hole going to the choke that once housed the hot air line.

My 72 had a 12V keyed source available but I ran off the coil for weeks without issue. Note that it will likely drop your voltage on the coil down.

You'll have to plug the exhaust manifold hole as well. I used a bolt from home depot that I hammered it. I bought 4-5 bolts which all seemed close to the right size then picked the one that seems just a little too big. Note the hole is larger at the opening.

If you have an electric fan like I do you'll also need to find a keyed 12V source for that as well.

 
There was another post about this recently. The fourth plug on the temp, oil, ammeter plug should provide 12V keyed power. Worst case you can use the hot side of the coil until you run another line from somewhere. You also need to plug the hole going to the choke that once housed the hot air line.

My 72 had a 12V keyed source available but I ran off the coil for weeks without issue. Note that it will likely drop your voltage on the coil down.

You'll have to plug the exhaust manifold hole as well. I used a bolt from home depot that I hammered it. I bought 4-5 bolts which all seemed close to the right size then picked the one that seems just a little too big. Note the hole is larger at the opening.

If you have an electric fan like I do you'll also need to find a keyed 12V source for that as well.
Click to expand...
+1. The fourth plug on the gauge harness plug for 72/73's (red/yellow wire); for 71, there's a two pin plug with red/yellow.

 
You mean the tapping the STATOR? Yeah, that's how Ford did it when they didn't have a RUN-only line in the engine compartment. The STATOR voltage isn't regulated, so if you want a actual existing wire that isn't being used, I'd go for the red/yellow wire otherwise the STATOR would be fine.

 
You mean the tapping the STATOR? Yeah, that's how Ford did it when they didn't have a RUN-only line in the engine compartment. The STATOR voltage isn't regulated, so if you want a actual existing wire that isn't being used, I'd go for the red/yellow wire otherwise the STATOR would be fine.
Click to expand...
I would have used the STA terminal, but I have an aftermarket higher amp 1 wire alternator that doesn't have a STA terminal.

+1 on it not being voltage regulated on the originals.

 

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