My engine build thread (NEW PICTURES)

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Joined
Apr 27, 2012
Messages
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Location
Nashville, Tennessee
My Car
1973 Q code Mach 1
I am heading out momentarily to pick up my engine block from the Machinist. My heads will be ready later this week.

Tonight I will prep my work area and begin checking clearances etc.

I've been gathering parts for a while now and have almost everything.

I'll try and take some pictures as I go, but that really isn't my strong suit.

A quick summary of the build:

CC 4V Iron heads with 1 piece stainless valves, guide plates and 7/16 adjustable studs. These were on my engine before but have been gone thru.

I'll be reusing my Performance Distributors DUI/HEI unit for the time being with their Live Wires. I think I can run a better set up, but for break in, this makes more sense.

I have either a Torker or a Weiand Accelerator intake to choose from as well as a Holley 4150 700CFM and an 850 CFM-I'm planning to go back to the 700 for initial break in.

Milodon high volume water pump (aluminum)

What's new

351 Cleveland block bored .030 over to clean up prior wear

a 393 Forged Crank from MME internally balanced

Scat H beam rods

Forged 11:1 flat top pistons with file to fit moly rings

King HP rod and main bearings

Todd Meyer cam bearings for restricted oiling

Lunati solid roller cam with .641 lift , matching lifters, pushrods and springs

ARP main and head studs

ARP oil pump drive shaft

Harlan Sharp Roller rockers

9 quart milodon pan and matching pick up

Melling oil pump

Full felpro gasket set

Harlan Sharp Stud girdle (Waiting upon at this time)

The engine compartment is clean with only a drop of touch up painting to do under the Master cylinder and along the firewall.

I used Dyno 2000 to get an estimate for this build and it is estimating peak HP at 6500 rpm as being 615- I expect it to be lower at perhaps 550. The torque estimates were also very high, but again I think the program is better at selling parts than predicting power levels. Once it is all done, I hope to have an engine dyno available to do my break in, tuning and testing.

 
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I hope I am proving that 4V iron heads work as intended! I have some clean up to do before I bring the block in the house and set it on a stand. Machinist did not clean the oil galleys, though he pulled the plugs so I have to spend a little time scrubbing it clean-on the plus side he needs some work from me and my wallet has not been hurt so I can spend the time.

Here are some of the pieces

2013-10-15 21.57.09.jpg

2013-10-15 21.59.00.jpg

2013-10-15 21.59.17.jpg

2013-10-15 22.01.07.jpg

 
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I need to clean out my block's oil galleys. I went by NAPA and they don't even carry the little brushes I have used in the past for engine cleaning. Does anyone have an idea of a potential local source? I'd hate to be waiting on shipping just for friggin' brushes.

 
I need to clean out my block's oil galleys. I went by NAPA and they don't even carry the little brushes I have used in the past for engine cleaning. Does anyone have an idea of a potential local source? I'd hate to be waiting on shipping just for friggin' brushes.
Gun bore cleaning brushes

 
Harbor Freight had an assortment I bought. Brass and stainless various sizes about 6 bucks or so.

Hey and thanks for the pushrods Jeff. I got them yesterday. Very kind of you.

 
My pleasure Cole.

Gun bore cleaning brushes I have plenty of, but some of what I should be cleaning isn't straight line. I really prefer nylon bristles in small areas.

Good point on Harbor Freight-I can't get by tonight, but I can hit Northern Tool-thanks for making me think of that.

While compressed air is a great tool, I am dealing with cam bearings that are installed and a block that has been machined-I've got to do more than just blow air though it, but I am concerned about using anything that could damage the cam bearings.

For black powder shooting, I have cleaned guns for years with a mix of murphy's oil soap, alcohol and water. This cuts grease and leaves behind a vegetable oil/wax residue that prevents rusting. I'm thinking this is an ideal solution as I'm not dealing with a ton of dirt. My other choice is kerosene, which is decent at cleaning but awfully stinky.

 
Found the brushes at northern tool 2-3 bucks a piece in brass and stainless, I bought a few extra and an extra long reach nozzle/blaster for my air compressor. Just got home with the kiddos, so tomorrow I set the block on a stand and get my cleaning and maybe painting done. Plastigage and clearance checking this weekend (if I have my heads back, which I hope to pick up tomorrow or Friday depending on work.

 
Well I got the block nice and clean and started checking clearances. all the mains looked good except #2 which was tight at .0015 or as close to that as plastigage's accuracy allows. All others were .0025. The block and crank are loaded in the trunk of my Mazda to go see if it is the block (My bet its it is the block) or the crank which seemed to measure out appropriately. It might be as simple as an undersized bearing shell to fix it, but I want to be sure.

Sorry for the lack of pictures today, but it is all pretty boring right now.

 
Well I was wrong. I heard back this morning that my block has been line bored and should now be perfect. The crank, however, has a slight imperfection in that the thrust bearing surface is slightly out of being perfectly parallel, such that as the crank turns 180 degrees, there is some slight friction. Machinists said that if endplay was kept to the high side of allowable that I should never notice it. He also said correcting it was beyond his capabilities. I've got some calls to make.


http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1656

 
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Hello Jeff,

I did not see any information concerning the the Cleveland's problematic oil distribution system especially since you are looking into the 6500 RPM range. We all know of the problems with the oiling system if one exceeds the 6000 rpm range for a period of time.

http://www.tmeyerinc.com/exclusiveproducts.html (Checkout these bearings)

Here is the original article I looked to refresh my memory on this subject.

Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1205_351_cleveland_oil_restrictors_351c_oiling_fix/#ixzz2iU9YMlOc

This just makes me want to build another Cleveland engine too! Look forward to seeing this finished 351C engine.

mustang7173 :D

 
I am using the TMeyer bearings (They are durabond that he has either altered or had made to order)

I am running a high volume oil pump along with solid roller lifters and a 9 quart pan. I am thinking of adding an oil accumulator to the mix once everything is installed and running.

All that being said, I think the oiling issue is overblown and that in the 70's oil quality wasn't what it is today. With premium components fit precisely together, I suspect the oiling system will not be a problem.

 
Well I was wrong. I heard back this morning that my block has been line bored and should now be perfect. The crank, however, has a slight imperfection in that the thrust bearing surface is slightly out of being perfectly parallel, such that as the crank turns 180 degrees, there is some slight friction. Machinists said that if endplay was kept to the high side of allowable that I should never notice it. He also said correcting it was beyond his capabilities. I've got some calls to make.


http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1656
That Sucks Jeff! Where did you get your crank from?? Is it part of a stroker kit that should of been balanced from them?

 
t is a forged scat crank provided by MME racing after it was modified to a zero imbalance crank. I'm not sure how out of spec it is, but will know more tonight or tomorrow. While the machinist I am using said he can't correct it, it is possible that it is correctable-I have a couple of options I have to follow up on.

The machinist I am using is used to building race engines and says it would probably be fine since I am not building a 8000+ RPM engine-still I want to fully flesh out my options before I move forward.

 
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