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John, I went with a Pypes Street Pro 2.5" stainless system w/X-pipe on mine, and for the money, completeness of the kit, and fit & finish, I don't think it can be beat (although it won't fit with a staggered shock set-up).

 

I had the entire system from headers to rear valance on in a few hours - the only things I had to tweak were the lead pipes from the collectors (since Hooker Comp Headers don't come back straight), and cut them to length as well (which you'll have to do with any kit).

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pye-sfm04s/overview/make/ford

 

Hope that helps.

 

Yes it does...I love it! I actually started a new thread because I thought it was going to be harder to figure out, etc... but you guys have made it so easy! Many thanks!

 

John

JHawk

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Hey John and Eric,

 

Just a few more thoughts and help on the tips.

 

Believe it or not, a few months ago i got my muffler man to install two new larger diameter tips. I thought the previous ones looked OK, but going a little wider (next size up ) would give a better look. See my before and after pics below.What i have now looks good to me and going even lager would make the whole thing look a bit goofy i think.

 

Also i found this link to what could be worth looking into.

 

http://www.cromerexhaust.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=204&cat=ROUND+ANGLE+CUT+STYLE+-+POLISHED+INNER+CONE+-+CHROME+%26+STAINLESS+STEEL

 

 

Reference pics.........................

 

After-

 

 

Before-

 

 

Again after -

 

 

 

Greg.:)

 

Looks great.

 

John J

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Thanks John j for your praise,and i'm pleased you like what i've done there.

 

 

Just wanted to give Jhawk the final specs on my system.

 

I,m running Hooker headers going into a 2 1/2 inch mild steel piping with true X pipe crossover and stainless steel mufflers (brand unknown).Three 1/2 inch diameter by 6 inches long dress part, stainless steel exhaust tips finish it all off.

 

Lastly, Eric sounds very compedent at welding /steel fab/ pipe work etc etc. I got my system custom done at a local muffler shop. It was money well spent and worth every penny. If you don't own a hoist or can't get access to one, and need to do some custom work as well, and get into some welding, this job is best left to the pros to do.

 

Greg.:)

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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I,m running Hooker headers going into a 2 1/2 inch mild steel piping with true X pipe crossover and stainless steel mufflers (brand unknown).Three 1/2 inch diameter by 6 inches long dress part, stainless steel exhaust tips finish it all off.

 

Lastly, Eric sounds very compedent at welding /steel fab/ pipe work etc etc. I got my system custom done at a local muffler shop. It was money well spent and worth every penny. If you don't own a hoist or can't get access to one, and need to do some custom work as well, and get into some welding, this job is best left to the pros to do.

 

Greg.:)

 

Thanks Greg,

 

I agree, I do plan to let the pros install it. Sounds like my system will be pretty similar to yours. I do have one last question: My car is totally disassembled or I would check it myself, but I noticed that your exhaust tips are 6" long and the tip I am looking at is 12" long. If I remember right there should be enough clearance to for this not to be an issue?

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mbr-t5106/overview/

 

Thanks again!

 

John

JHawk

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I,m running Hooker headers going into a 2 1/2 inch mild steel piping with true X pipe crossover and stainless steel mufflers (brand unknown).Three 1/2 inch diameter by 6 inches long dress part, stainless steel exhaust tips finish it all off.

 

Lastly, Eric sounds very compedent at welding /steel fab/ pipe work etc etc. I got my system custom done at a local muffler shop. It was money well spent and worth every penny. If you don't own a hoist or can't get access to one, and need to do some custom work as well, and get into some welding, this job is best left to the pros to do.

 

Greg.:)

 

Thanks Greg,

 

I agree, I do plan to let the pros install it. Sounds like my system will be pretty similar to yours. I do have one last question: My car is totally disassembled or I would check it myself, but I noticed that your exhaust tips are 6" long and the tip I am looking at is 12" long. If I remember right there should be enough clearance to for this not to be an issue?

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mbr-t5106/overview/

 

Thanks again!

 

John

 

John, i just saw your tip on Summit and that should present no problem with ftting that i could see. Don't forget that i've got about another 4 or so inches of pipe back from my dress part of the tip as well, where as the Summit tip is dress all the way back to the end.

 

Lastly, be aware that it's very important to make sure that the tips are properly aligned at the correct slope down angle as they protrude out the back, and as well the right length of prodrudence past the rear valence panel also.Toe in and toe out angles of the tips play a part as well.

 

The final alignment of the tips will of course depend on how you position and hang the pipework as it runs up to the tips on both sides, as the tips are just carry on extensions from the pipes themselves.That's the hard, tricky part, and is best left to the pros to sort out.

 

Best of luck,

 

Greg.:)

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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Lastly, Eric sounds very compedent at welding /steel fab/ pipe work etc etc. I got my system custom done at a local muffler shop. It was money well spent and worth every penny. If you don't own a hoist or can't get access to one, and need to do some custom work as well, and get into some welding, this job is best left to the pros to do.

 

Greg.:)

 

Yeah, I think you hit the nail on the head: "Eric sounds very competent at welding /steel fab/ pipe work etc." rofl I laugh because while my welding is still coming along, it still kinda sucks compared to some of the artwork I've seen others do.

 

Nah - my kit is the Pypes kit I linked to from Summit Racing. It even makes a hack like me look like I know what I'm doing. ;) :D

Eric

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Lastly, Eric sounds very compedent at welding /steel fab/ pipe work etc etc. I got my system custom done at a local muffler shop. It was money well spent and worth every penny. If you don't own a hoist or can't get access to one, and need to do some custom work as well, and get into some welding, this job is best left to the pros to do.

 

Greg.:)

 

Yeah, I think you hit the nail on the head: "Eric sounds very competent at welding /steel fab/ pipe work etc." rofl I laugh because while my welding is still coming along, it still kinda sucks compared to some of the artwork I've seen others do.

 

Nah - my kit is the Pypes kit I linked to from Summit Racing. It even makes a hack like me look like I know what I'm doing. ;) :D

 

Hey Eric,

 

Thanks for putting me in the picture.:)

 

You know, when i think it sometimes, i'm an old school guy i suppose.

I've always believed in the old sayings - every man to his trade / practice makes perfect / there's no subsitute for experience etc.

 

After spending 38 years in my trade, i'm still learning as i go.I don't think you ever stop.Whenever i get the chance to see a real pro tradie at work,no matter what the trade, i love to just stop and look at the guy doing his thing.It's a real treat for the eyes.

 

Bottom line for me is, a guy with natural talent can take on many types of jobs, and deliver a good result, but there is no substitute for a guy that specialises in one particular trade, excels in it, and pretty much masters that trade over a fare time. He truely is the professional master to be reviered.

 

Anyway, keep up the good work,

 

Greg.:)

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but with this set up, no welding is required? The tweaking will be bending at the collectors (not so easily done with 2.5" stainless steel pipe) and then cutting (hopefully a hacksaw will do it?) the end pipes off. Seems like getting the hangers right might be a little challenging and as Greg stated getting the angle right out the back. A bigger issue is whether you can do it without a lift?

 

John

JHawk

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but with this set up, no welding is required? The tweaking will be bending at the collectors (not so easily done with 2.5" stainless steel pipe) and then cutting (hopefully a hacksaw will do it?) the end pipes off. Seems like getting the hangers right might be a little challenging and as Greg stated getting the angle right out the back. A bigger issue is whether you can do it without a lift?

 

John

John, if any bending or customising is required because of ill fitting pipe or alignment issues, you'll have your work cut out for you for sure. Pipe cutting can also be done with an angle grinder or drop saw with metal cut off wheels.

 

With your tips, if you have cut outs in your valence like i do, aligning the tips is much harder than bringing the tips under a non cut out valence.

 

If your tips are out of alignment, the finished look can be like a two bob watch.

 

A raised car on quality jack stands front and rear could let you assemble a kit system that doesn't require welding, but it would be hard going under that car for sure.

 

For the money spent, a good muffler shop has to be the way to go in my humble opinion for a decent looking job.I spent $600.00 labour on my system at the shop, and it was worth every penny.

 

BTW - I forgot to tell you that no mods were done to the rear valence panel at all.

 

Greg.:)

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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John, if any bending or customising is required because of ill fitting pipe or alignment issues, you'll have your work cut out for you for sure. Pipe cutting can also be done with an angle grinder or drop saw with metal cut off wheels.

 

With your tips, if you have cut outs in your valence like i do, aligning the tips is much harder than bringing the tips under a non cut out valence.

 

If your tips are out of alignment, the finished look can be like a two bob watch.

 

A raised car on quality jack stands front and rear could let you assemble a kit system that doesn't require welding, but it would be hard going under that car for sure.

 

For the money spent, a good muffler shop has to be the way to go in my humble opinion for a decent looking job.I spent $600.00 labour on my system at the shop, and it was worth every penny.

 

Greg.:)

 

I'm wth you...it's sounds so easy when you're on your computer and not crawling under the car! Not to mention it will be a fun trip to the shop with open hearder!

 

John

JHawk

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but with this set up, no welding is required? The tweaking will be bending at the collectors (not so easily done with 2.5" stainless steel pipe) and then cutting (hopefully a hacksaw will do it?) the end pipes off. Seems like getting the hangers right might be a little challenging and as Greg stated getting the angle right out the back. A bigger issue is whether you can do it without a lift?

 

John

 

No welding required - it comes with pre-cut junctions that crush properly when the clamps are tightened.

 

I'm fortunately enough to have a nice Bendpak pipe bender at my disposal, so it was just a matter of finding the right place, and bending about 14 degrees into each piece.

 

The Air Force also provided a nice chop saw at the shop - again, just mark the length and drop the saw, then clean the edges and slip 'em right on.

 

I think it can be installed on jack stands... just a little tight. Each of the pieces are manageable, and it would just take more effort and patience doing it on the floor. I know Qcode351mach installed the same kit on his car in his garage and it turned out awesome (just like everything he does).

 

Having the lift and other tools has been HUGE for my project. I don't know how the other guys get by doing all this stuff at home. I guess I'm pretty spoiled. ;) :D

Eric

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No welding required - it comes with pre-cut junctions that crush properly when the clamps are tightened.

 

I'm fortunately enough to have a nice Bendpak pipe bender at my disposal, so it was just a matter of finding the right place, and bending about 14 degrees into each piece.

 

The Air Force also provided a nice chop saw at the shop - again, just mark the length and drop the saw, then clean the edges and slip 'em right on.

 

I think it can be installed on jack stands... just a little tight. Each of the pieces are manageable, and it would just take more effort and patience doing it on the floor. I know Qcode351mach installed the same kit on his car in his garage and it turned out awesome (just like everything he does).

 

Having the lift and other tools has been HUGE for my project. I don't know how the other guys get by doing all this stuff at home. I guess I'm pretty spoiled. ;) :D

 

I agree...you are spoiled! :D

 

I'm probably going to put the headers and collectors on before I drop the motor and then take it to the muffler shop...like I said, it'll be fun to run the open headers! Probably won't cost too much either since it's pretty close already...

 

All great intel!

JHawk

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JHawk's Garage

 

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