WHATS CONCIDERD ORIGINAL

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Joined
Feb 6, 2011
Messages
309
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Location
cardington,ohio
My Car
71 (M CODE) MACH 1 NOW BBF
WHEN I BOUGHT MY CAR IT HAD A 460 IN IT, THOUGHT OF STROKING IT BIGGER JUST TO MAKE IT DIFFERENT AND NOT JUST A HALF ASSED REPLACEMENT. I RECENTLY FOUND A 351 THAT APPEARS TO HAVE ALL THE RIGHT CASTING NUMBERS TO MAKE IT ORIGINAL. SO HOW FAR CAN AN ENGINE BE TRACED IF THERE IS NO VIN ON THE PARTS, ARE THEY LIKE GM? I HAVE A 71 MACH M CODE, I FOUND A DOAE-L BLOCK WHICH SHOWS UP AS THE PROPER YEAR, AND IT HAS THE CORRESPONDING HEADS,THAT SHOULD OF CAME ON IT. IF I DRIVE 8HRS. AND BUY IT AND 8HRS. BACK DOES ANYONE THINK I WOULD HAVE AN ORIGINAL CAR?

 
WHEN I BOUGHT MY CAR IT HAD A 460 IN IT, THOUGHT OF STROKING IT BIGGER JUST TO MAKE IT DIFFERENT AND NOT JUST A HALF ASSED REPLACEMENT. I RECENTLY FOUND A 351 THAT APPEARS TO HAVE ALL THE RIGHT CASTING NUMBERS TO MAKE IT ORIGINAL. SO HOW FAR CAN AN ENGINE BE TRACED IF THERE IS NO VIN ON THE PARTS, ARE THEY LIKE GM? I HAVE A 71 MACH M CODE, I FOUND A DOAE-L BLOCK WHICH SHOWS UP AS THE PROPER YEAR, AND IT HAS THE CORRESPONDING HEADS,THAT SHOULD OF CAME ON IT. IF I DRIVE 8HRS. AND BUY IT AND 8HRS. BACK DOES ANYONE THINK I WOULD HAVE AN ORIGINAL CAR?
I'm going the other way with mine, I have a 4V Cleveland but my car was originally an H code 2V according to the VIN. I figure I'll make this my big block beast!

 
WHEN I BOUGHT MY CAR IT HAD A 460 IN IT, THOUGHT OF STROKING IT BIGGER JUST TO MAKE IT DIFFERENT AND NOT JUST A HALF ASSED REPLACEMENT. I RECENTLY FOUND A 351 THAT APPEARS TO HAVE ALL THE RIGHT CASTING NUMBERS TO MAKE IT ORIGINAL. SO HOW FAR CAN AN ENGINE BE TRACED IF THERE IS NO VIN ON THE PARTS, ARE THEY LIKE GM? I HAVE A 71 MACH M CODE, I FOUND A DOAE-L BLOCK WHICH SHOWS UP AS THE PROPER YEAR, AND IT HAS THE CORRESPONDING HEADS,THAT SHOULD OF CAME ON IT. IF I DRIVE 8HRS. AND BUY IT AND 8HRS. BACK DOES ANYONE THINK I WOULD HAVE AN ORIGINAL CAR?
Do you know the build date of your car? The exact date can be obtained from Ford Motor Company via project 999 for free. The month and year should be on the VIN decal on left door. The cast dates on drive line components should predate the build date by several weeks. I'm not sure about 1971 but my 1972 has the last 6 digits of the VIN stamped on the block and heads. In general my opinion is put a 351C-4V back in the car. It will be worth more and will handle better. PS If you want power it can be had with a 351C-4v based engine. My last 408C, 9.5:1 pump gas, flat tappet, Ford headed engine made 529 HP/496 TQ peak.

Chuck

I meant to say the VIN was stamped on the block and transmission. Sorry for any confusion caused. Chuck

 
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WHEN I BOUGHT MY CAR IT HAD A 460 IN IT, THOUGHT OF STROKING IT BIGGER JUST TO MAKE IT DIFFERENT AND NOT JUST A HALF ASSED REPLACEMENT. I RECENTLY FOUND A 351 THAT APPEARS TO HAVE ALL THE RIGHT CASTING NUMBERS TO MAKE IT ORIGINAL. SO HOW FAR CAN AN ENGINE BE TRACED IF THERE IS NO VIN ON THE PARTS, ARE THEY LIKE GM? I HAVE A 71 MACH M CODE, I FOUND A DOAE-L BLOCK WHICH SHOWS UP AS THE PROPER YEAR, AND IT HAS THE CORRESPONDING HEADS,THAT SHOULD OF CAME ON IT. IF I DRIVE 8HRS. AND BUY IT AND 8HRS. BACK DOES ANYONE THINK I WOULD HAVE AN ORIGINAL CAR?
Do you know the build date of your car? The exact date can be obtained from Ford Motor Company via project 999 for free. The month and year should be on the VIN decal on left door. The cast dates on drive line components should predate the build date by several weeks. I'm not sure about 1971 but my 1972 has the last 6 digits of the VIN stamped on the block and heads. In general my opinion is put a 351C-4V back in the car. It will be worth more and will handle better. PS If you want power it can be had with a 351C-4v based engine. My last 408C, 9.5:1 pump gas, flat tappet, Ford headed engine made 529 HP/496 TQ peak.

Chuck
I'm amazed that the motor was matched to the VIN... guess I've never been a concours type guy. :huh: Certainly nothing wrong with those HP/TQ numbers. I suppose I'm preserving my Cleveland option by building it for my 79 F-100, but I digress!

 
THE MOTOR CASTING NUMBER SHOWS 70-71, PRODDUCTION DATE OF MY CAR IS 11-70 THE ONE IM LOOKING AT IS IN THAT ERA AND HOLY COW ON YOUR ENGINE IF I GET IT WE GOTTA TALK. AND THATS WHY I WAS THINKING OF BUYING IT IS TO INCREASE VALUE


71 BAD MACH NO NO IM NOT SAYING THAT THE NUMBER WAS MATCHED. IM ASKING IF THEY WERE. I DONT SEE HOW THEY COULD BUT BEFORE I SPEND MORE MONEY I WANTED TO BE SURE

 
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Hello pappy!!... Well... if i understand you correctly (i´m from a spanish languague country so i kinde mess up some times...) you´re about to make the choice of modifing your car or invest the same kind of money but for bringing his back to his factory specs...

Well... i´m a factory stock fan and since i find this guys from this forum, i´m on that plan with my mustang... Mine is an I6 so you can imagine how hard my decission was... i go faster by bus!! :p

In my opinion, you have to think what are you gonna enjoy the most... a 351 car is a power car too... i´ll be more than happy if i had that much torq under my feet in this agressive body... For me, 600 HP is too much that you can enjoy just driving so... if i were you i´ll probably go for the stock restoration, putting my eye on the small details and so... i enjoy that....

You just have to think about what car do you want to have... that´s the important thing here... Investing right to your fun hobbie you could say...

Well.. keep us posted.. post some pics!!

 
I THINK I MIGHT HAVE ANSWERED MY OWN QUESTION. I JUST READ THE MARTI REPORTS SECTION AND FOUND NO CONNECTION BETWEEN VIN AND CASTING NUMBERS, ONLY THE BASIC DESC. 351C4V. SO I GUESS IF I GET THE RIGHT YR ENGINE I SHOULD BE GOOD. THANKS TO ALL....

 
I THINK I MIGHT HAVE ANSWERED MY OWN QUESTION. I JUST READ THE MARTI REPORTS SECTION AND FOUND NO CONNECTION BETWEEN VIN AND CASTING NUMBERS, ONLY THE BASIC DESC. 351C4V. SO I GUESS IF I GET THE RIGHT YR ENGINE I SHOULD BE GOOD. THANKS TO ALL....
Hello, the last 6 digits of the VIN would be stamped on the block and transmission.

Also I have a fresh 71 M code motor [ still wrapped in plastic from the engine builder ] sitting here.

Don

 
I also had an H code 2v engine. Changed over to a CJ motor. Kept all the original parts if I ever want to go back original. My garage has the engine specs. As soon as I can get the bucks together will get it dynoed and post. Last year at the strip the car was doing [email protected] in the 1/4 at Martin,Mi. At that time I had a 2 bolt main w/aussi heads.

Jim

 
I THINK I MIGHT HAVE ANSWERED MY OWN QUESTION. I JUST READ THE MARTI REPORTS SECTION AND FOUND NO CONNECTION BETWEEN VIN AND CASTING NUMBERS, ONLY THE BASIC DESC. 351C4V. SO I GUESS IF I GET THE RIGHT YR ENGINE I SHOULD BE GOOD. THANKS TO ALL....
Hello, the last 6 digits of the VIN would be stamped on the block and transmission.

Also I have a fresh 71 M code motor [ still wrapped in plastic from the engine builder ] sitting here.

Don
So, pardon me while I reflect on this a little.:idea: I find it amazing that the factory would have taken the time to match engines and transmissions to VINs, but maybe that was their way of traceability? I figured date and casting codes would be close enough. So, the chance of finding the exact block and transmission would be pretty impossible for me. I suppose that is what makes a "concours" a concours...

I guess today everything is tracked by bar code, but back in the day there must have been a paperwork mountain! Thanks for the information!

 
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