Trunk Lid Install and alignment -Mach 1

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Sep 2, 2012
Messages
1,622
Reaction score
221
Location
Blue Springs, MO
My Car
1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.
Team,

I'm feeling like and idiot. I installed the trunk weatherstrip and tried to install the actual deck lid. The weatherstrip is very stiff and I cannot get the trunk lid to latch.

Anyone else tried new weatherstrip for the trunk and have closure problems? The car is still disassembled enough to make alignment wit the rear window trim or the QP extensions impossible at this time.

The latch receiver is in its highest position. Any suggestions?

Smart enough to put in a headliner, but I cannot install a trunk lid!:dodgy:

 
What are the height levels on the trunk lid and quarter panels? The important part is the alignment height along the front of trunk lid and the rear window panel. can you post pics?

 
When we changed our weather stripping the trunk lid sat higher when shut but after a while it returned to normal when the weather stripping compressed.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Although I went through a similar experience with my 69 vert, it may have bearing on yours. When I initially completed the restoration a few years ago, I used basic trunk weatherstripping (approx $8). Three years later I still had issues with closing the trunk because the weatherstripping never compressed properly. I removed it and installed weatherstripping made by Daniel Carpenter Reproductions ($14) and within 2 months it made closing the trunk lid nice and easy. It also seals the way it should. The new stuff was noticeably softer and had the correct profile.

 
What are the height levels on the trunk lid and quarter panels? The important part is the alignment height along the front of trunk lid and the rear window panel. can you post pics?
I can't get it to close, so I cannot measure the height. Is that what you mean, The elevation of the trunk plane above the 1/4 panel line?



Although I went through a similar experience with my 69 vert, it may have bearing on yours. When I initially completed the restoration a few years ago, I used basic trunk weatherstripping (approx $8). Three years later I still had issues with closing the trunk because the weatherstripping never compressed properly. I removed it and installed weatherstripping made by Daniel Carpenter Reproductions ($14) and within 2 months it made closing the trunk lid nice and easy. It also seals the way it should. The new stuff was noticeably softer and had the correct profile.
I will try to look at who made this stuff. I bought it several years ago, and it was labeled for 71-73 Mustang, all body styles. It seems to sit tall.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Team,

I'm feeling like and idiot. I installed the trunk weatherstrip and tried to install the actual deck lid. The weatherstrip is very stiff and I cannot get the trunk lid to latch.

Anyone else tried new weatherstrip for the trunk and have closure problems? The car is still disassembled enough to make alignment wit the rear window trim or the QP extensions impossible at this time.

The latch receiver is in its highest position. Any suggestions?

Smart enough to put in a headliner, but I cannot install a trunk lid!:dodgy:
Having a hard time closing the trunk lid after installing new weatherstripping is pretty much the norm for many of us who have done it.

 
Use some strips of paper cut from a brown paper bag. Lay them around every 6 inches or so over the seals and hold the trunk lid down as far as possible and have someone remove the strips to find the interference points.

If it is just a small area that is keeping you from proper alignment and closure, you may be able to massage the tight areas down with light blows from a rubber hammer on the inside lip of the trunk. Once it is closing, you can get in the trunk with a flashlight and have it closed so you can find any areas that might not be sealing properly.

 
Still no luck with this thing. I put on one of the 1/4 extensions and the alignment is perfect. Gaps are parallel and perfect down both sides of the lid compared to the 1/4 panel.

Should I cut weep holes in the seal? Any other suggestions. I have left a "load" on the seal for the last couple of months, and I still can't get it there.

Thanks for any more helpful suggestions.

kcmash

 
I just put the weather stripping on mine and its a tight fit. I have to close the lid a little harder than previously but it now has that solid feel when its closed. I concluded that the new rubber hasn't compressed yet.

-jbojo

 
When installed correctly, the weatherstrip will compress within a few weeks and the trunk lid will close smoothly.

The first few days are the hardest with the new rubber. Same for the door weatherstrips.

 
I had the same problem when I put my vert together this summer. I eventually picked up another seal at Carlisle when I noticed it was much softer. The second one was from Cjpony. I was able to shut it after that. The first seal, though it was new, was twice as firm.

 
I had the same problem when I put my vert together this summer. I eventually picked up another seal at Carlisle when I noticed it was much softer. The second one was from Cjpony. I was able to shut it after that. The first seal, though it was new, was twice as firm.
Good info...I just bought trunk, cowl, and door weatherstripping from CJPony. Can you clarify which seals work correctly?

Thanks,

John

 
I had issues with getting my trunk to close after replacing it and though my gaps were good on the sides, I had the entire lid slid too far towards the rear of the vehicle. While the gap looked good at the base of the rear glass it was actually too larger. I didn't have the rear quarter extensions on to be able to match body lines there. Is the weather stripping for sure what's stopping the trunk from closing or is the trunk latch not lining up?

 
I had issues with getting my trunk to close after replacing it and though my gaps were good on the sides, I had the entire lid slid too far towards the rear of the vehicle. While the gap looked good at the base of the rear glass it was actually too larger. I didn't have the rear quarter extensions on to be able to match body lines there. Is the weather stripping for sure what's stopping the trunk from closing or is the trunk latch not lining up?
It was the weatherstrip. Once removed, click! The latch catches effortlessly. I guess I need to buy a softer one.

 
What are the height levels on the trunk lid and quarter panels? The important part is the alignment height along the front of trunk lid and the rear window panel. can you post pics?
::welcome::just got to make them fit as w/the older any cars found out at an AACA judging session since cars then were not laser fitted and when panels being hand fitted and they ran out of @ panels, they took that last panel or trunk lid....had the metal stampers produce them from that one be it not exact like the very 1st diecast



What are the height levels on the trunk lid and quarter panels? The important part is the alignment height along the front of trunk lid and the rear window panel. can you post pics?
::welcome::just got to make them fit as w/the older any cars found out at an AACA judging session since cars then were not laser fitted and when panels being hand fitted and they ran out of @ panels, they took that last panel or trunk lid....had the metal stampers produce them from that one be it not exact like the very 1st diecast
 
Last edited by a moderator:
" ::welcome::just got to make them fit as w/the older any cars found out at an AACA judging session since cars then were not laser fitted and when panels being hand fitted and they ran out of @ panels, they took that last panel or trunk lid....had the metal stampers produce them from that one be it not exact like the very 1st diecast "

Mike whoever told you this is wrong

They kept the same dies to stamp the panels

Some of the dies for 65-70 sheet metal is still being used today

 
Back
Top