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1973 Mach build -My way


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The floor pan is in but I must say that the reproduction part fits extremely poorly. So much that I decided to use the rusted original.

The best play at this point seemed to be to patch the rusted section with the replacement. I think it turned out fairly well.

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Assembled:

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Hi yes it's Not allways the bedst parts... But you Now what you are doing so keep on the good work:coolphotos: They don't care about if they are okay parts. When i got My parts to My Mach 1 there was a lot off the same isius off panel's that i needed to do some Work on as well:@ They are allso Not as strong as the original's are:chin: But good Luck whit your Work sir:bravo: Regars Lars DK73

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73:whistling:

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  • 5 months later...

I didn't do anything all summer but now it's winter and I've been laid off.

 

I finished cutting out both wheel wells to accommodate 30 inch tires.

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I even removed about an inch and a half of rocker to get the room.

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It's not tubbed but I excised the outer curve of the outer wheel well.

I welded 3/16" round stock to the cut edge then I connected the apex of the well to the round stock with some 18 ga. steel.

I also had to replace the part of the quarter between the well and the B pillar on both sides.

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In this picture you can see how far my ten inch wheels stick out (no tire yet). I'm considering shortening the axle and flares. A four link kit with adjustable coil over shocks will allow me to tune the height and ride.

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The reconditioned wheels are a bit dirty but will look delicious with rubber mounted.

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Sorry, these pictures have been inappropriately rotated. I don't see how to correct it.

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  • 1 year later...

I haven't updated this build in a year but there has been progress. I've been frequenting the Facebook page with some updates.

 

I have installed a free floating three link axle with watts link from Street or Track.

 

The truck and tail panel steel has been replaced.

 

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The three link requires a hole to be cut. Street or Track's 1970 pan doesn't fit so I fabricated my own.

 

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For those that have tried to fit big tires, you know that the front of the inner wheel wells are shallow on the classic Mustangs. I learned of a modification of cutting it open and welding in a panel to maximize the space without tubbing.

 

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I bought some additional braces for the roof having read a post here about how soft the roof can be, particularly when sanding out filler.

Note that the factory braces only fit well in it's original location because the roof is more narrow to the front and wider in the back.

The rear had to be shaped some. The front actually fit perfectly when I tacked it in above the roof rail instead of under. It's the best fitting of the three. I now have a most rigid roof.

 

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Cribbing is required to get them tight. I learned the hard way. I had to cut it out and re-weld.

 

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Wow. Thanks for the heads up.

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  • 1 month later...

My hinges were in good shape but the bushings needed replacement. instead of the regular cheap and simple rebuild kit I spent the big bucks, $72, on "Mustang Steve's" upgrade kit that is particularly good for those hinges with rounded out holes.

The kit is robust with much bigger bushings that are enclosed and lubricated with a zert. I will never have any loose issues.

 

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Very nice. I have heard a lot of good comments about this kit. Luckily for me, my doors don't sag, YET! Looking forward to more progress reports on your car.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

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