71_Stang
Well-known member
Those of you that have looked up how to built DIY adjustable strut rods have probably seen this website.... http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/adjustable.
But, much to my disappointment, the website took down their instructions on the strut rods because of concern over the hardware used to attach the rod to the frame.
I never really loved the design to begin with because it pushed out the pivot point 2"-3" from the original factory placement. So I've been working over the past few weeks to design a setup that would be cost effective and would keep the factory pivot point. Here is my design:
The material used is 7075 aluminum, which is lighter than steel and has a higher tensile strength. They are designed to fit inside the bushing hole in the frame and a standard 1.50" rod end head diameter fits and moves up/down freely. It allows the pivot point to be .5" behind the face of the frame.
The ears extend .75" past the opening and two 3/8" bolt holes are drilled to mount it to the frame (holes would have to be drilled into the frame).
I had a machine shop quote it and to make just two was going to be ridiculous. But the price goes down with the more copies made (apparently most of the cost is setting up the CNC).
If 10 are ordered (4 cars + mine), the cost is 50 per unit ($100 total)
If 20 are ordered (9 cars + mine), the cost is $30.00 per unit ($60 total)
If enough of you are serious about buying these, let me know and we can get a pretty good deal. Or if you have any suggested tweaks to the design, let me know!
But, much to my disappointment, the website took down their instructions on the strut rods because of concern over the hardware used to attach the rod to the frame.
I never really loved the design to begin with because it pushed out the pivot point 2"-3" from the original factory placement. So I've been working over the past few weeks to design a setup that would be cost effective and would keep the factory pivot point. Here is my design:
The material used is 7075 aluminum, which is lighter than steel and has a higher tensile strength. They are designed to fit inside the bushing hole in the frame and a standard 1.50" rod end head diameter fits and moves up/down freely. It allows the pivot point to be .5" behind the face of the frame.
The ears extend .75" past the opening and two 3/8" bolt holes are drilled to mount it to the frame (holes would have to be drilled into the frame).
I had a machine shop quote it and to make just two was going to be ridiculous. But the price goes down with the more copies made (apparently most of the cost is setting up the CNC).
If 10 are ordered (4 cars + mine), the cost is 50 per unit ($100 total)
If 20 are ordered (9 cars + mine), the cost is $30.00 per unit ($60 total)
If enough of you are serious about buying these, let me know and we can get a pretty good deal. Or if you have any suggested tweaks to the design, let me know!