Advice in rebuilding my Aussie 351C

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Joined
Feb 25, 2013
Messages
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Location
New york City
My Car
1971 429SCJ Mach1
The back story on my engine is it always had low vacuum @ 11inches. I had 150 psi in all cylinders until #1 took a dump. I put some oil in the cylinder and got 150 psi then back to zero. The valves were moving so I figured there was a problem with the piston. Put air into the cylinder after backing off both valves. Hear or felt nothing through the tailpipe or carb or intake but I did hear airflow into the crankcase. Today I pulled the engine and broke it down. Found the valve seats and guides were good. I put thinner in the cylinder and got a slow drip which was the same in all the cylinders which makes me think the rings are not damaged. When I pulled the cam I found the first lobe was wiped. Figured that might be the reason for the dead hole.

I was told the engine was rebuild about 10K miles ago. The bore is std (4.000) with no lip at all. Crank is .010/.010. (Clevite 77 bearings) Rods show signs of being balanced (grinding on the caps). Looks like a billet roller chain with multi index crank sprocket. The heads are Aussie 2V with hardened exhaust seats and new valves.

I have a Comp Cams 260H cam I plant to install along with a 525 Road Demon carb, tri-y headers and 2 1/4 dual exhaust and an AOD conversion. Not looking for neck snapping power. Instead I want a car I can take to the road for long trips. I promised my son we'd hit the road this summer. I'm planning on 3,000 miles so fuel efficiency is more important than all out power.

I'm looking for opinions on cams, intakes, carbs ect. Am also divided between breaking it all down and install new rings, bearings and oil pump but since it had good oil pressure and I think a high volume pump to leave the bottom end alone. Opinions ?

Thanks

Leon











 
Hi Leon,

I'm very sorry that i can't be of help to you with your engine problem, mainly because i don't know enough about the technical side of things, but i just wanted to say in passing, what a wow factor thing to see an Aussie classic Ford living in America instead of seeing American Mustangs here in Australia.

On the whole, how do find the Falcon to own and drive around yourself?

Does the right hand drive thing make it difficult for you on the roads per say?

Just curious.

Greg.:)

 
If the oil filter captured all of the metal grindings that passed through the oil pump you've probably OK with not rebuilding the rest of the engine. However, if the oil filter became clogged up the grindings went through the bypass and circulated through the engine. Because the oil pump has very close clearances there's a good chance it was damaged. I would replace it with a standard volume and pressure oil pump, at a minimum.

 
Do you know what the cam specs were?

What intake manifold?

I don't think I'd run the bottom end without disassembly and a thorough bath. The filter did not catch all of those filings, it never does. There's still fine poo suspended in all of that oil covering the interior of the engine. Just not worth side stepping something obvious to me.

Reuse all of the same components except gaskets?

Well, yes, maybe. Depending on how the bearings look (wear pattern), I might consider even reusing those. I couldn't sleep without a peek at them, knowing the block is down that far anyways.

I generally like the cam choice for a driver. A 600 or 650ish vac sec carb would do fine. I might consider the 525 for a 289 or 302, but not 351. If you have access to a 600, try them both and see how you like it.

Use a standard oil pump as Don suggested.

Oh, and BTW, I TOTALLY dig that car!!!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi Leon,

I'm very sorry that i can't be of help to you with your engine problem, mainly because i don't know enough about the technical side of things, but i just wanted to say in passing, what a wow factor thing to see an Aussie classic Ford living in America instead of seeing American Mustangs here in Australia.

On the whole, how do find the Falcon to own and drive around yourself?

Does the right hand drive thing make it difficult for you on the roads per say?

Just curious.

Greg.:)
Hey Greg,

I've had this car 10 years and only driven it 500 miles or less. The RHD thing is fairly unsettling. I love the lines of the car but hate to say it isn't built any better than a Mustang or Torino and the Lucas electrics are something to be revered. Once the power train is done I'm starting the body resto doing the engine compartment first. I'm contemplating changing the color as my Mach1 is already red & black. Was thinking about Cobra colors. Any threats of death ?

Several years back there was a fellow in Oz who did a step by step documentation of the resto and creation of an XA coupe clone which he painted bright green. Has anyone else seen this website/posting and know where I can find it ? His work was awesome. He even made a die to stamp the non GT hood with recesses to fit the hood scoops. I'm looking for any and all info to help me speed this project along. Need to have it done by June.

God Bless

Leon



Very nice.

Is that an original Vic number plate I see on it?

Cheers...
Yup. That's what it came with. Here's what it wears now.





Do you know what the cam specs were?

What intake manifold?

I don't think I'd run the bottom end without disassembly and a thorough bath. The filter did not catch all of those filings, it never does. There's still fine poo suspended in all of that oil covering the interior of the engine. Just not worth side stepping something obvious to me.

Reuse all of the same components except gaskets?

Well, yes, maybe. Depending on how the bearings look (wear pattern), I might consider even reusing those. I couldn't sleep without a peek at them, knowing the block is down that far anyways.

I generally like the cam choice for a driver. A 600 or 650ish vac sec carb would do fine. I might consider the 525 for a 289 or 302, but not 351. If you have access to a 600, try them both and see how you like it.

Use a standard oil pump as Don suggested.

Oh, and BTW, I TOTALLY dig that car!!!
I agree. To do this much work and not go all the was would be wreckless. Car will be much better once it's refinished. I'll take any help you can supply.

Leon



Do you know what the cam specs were?

What intake manifold?

I don't think I'd run the bottom end without disassembly and a thorough bath. The filter did not catch all of those filings, it never does. There's still fine poo suspended in all of that oil covering the interior of the engine. Just not worth side stepping something obvious to me.

Reuse all of the same components except gaskets?

Well, yes, maybe. Depending on how the bearings look (wear pattern), I might consider even reusing those. I couldn't sleep without a peek at them, knowing the block is down that far anyways.

I generally like the cam choice for a driver. A 600 or 650ish vac sec carb would do fine. I might consider the 525 for a 289 or 302, but not 351. If you have access to a 600, try them both and see how you like it.

Use a standard oil pump as Don suggested.

Oh, and BTW, I TOTALLY dig that car!!!
I agree. To do this much work and not go all the was would be wreckless. Car will be much better once it's refinished. I'll take any help you can supply.

Leon

 
Last edited by a moderator:
How long ago was that rebuild? Is it possible that the cam failed due to low ZDDP levels in the oil used for break-in?

-Kurt

 
How long ago was that rebuild? Is it possible that the cam failed due to low ZDDP levels in the oil used for break-in?

-Kurt
I was told it was a rebuilt a couple years before my friend bought it then he had it in his showroom for a couple years before I bought it. Got it 1 1/2 years after I bought. Figure five years at least. No telling when the oil was changed.

 
Several years back there was a fellow in Oz who did a step by step documentation of the resto and creation of an XA coupe clone which he painted bright green. Has anyone else seen this website/posting and know where I can find it ? His work was awesome. He even made a die to stamp the non GT hood with recesses to fit the hood scoops. I'm looking for any and all info to help me speed this project along. Need to have it done by June.

Leon
Hi Leon. I know a super custome Green one here that I thought was an XB. Go here to look at build threads:

http://www.fordforums.com.au/forumdisplay.php?f=28

http://www.fordforums.com.au/forumdisplay.php?f=273

Greg

 
Several years back there was a fellow in Oz who did a step by step documentation of the resto and creation of an XA coupe clone which he painted bright green. Has anyone else seen this website/posting and know where I can find it ? His work was awesome. He even made a die to stamp the non GT hood with recesses to fit the hood scoops. I'm looking for any and all info to help me speed this project along. Need to have it done by June.

Leon
Hi Leon. I know a super custome Green one here that I thought was an XB. Go here to look at build threads:

http://www.fordforums.com.au/forumdisplay.php?f=28

http://www.fordforums.com.au/forumdisplay.php?f=273

Greg
Thanks Greg. Lots of info to read through.

 
ur car is awesome I am quite envious

 
I'm using Sealed Power moly rings in my engine. The mfg says use a 400 grit hone which I think is kinda smooth. Was thinking of using a 320 flex hone. The cylinders are clean, straight and std. so I don't see any problem using the flex hone. Opinions ?

Leon

 
Hello Mr. Mach 1,

Love the body style of the Aussie Ford. It reminds me a bit of the famed RAF Hawker Hurricane IIA. Slim Spitfire nose with wide body. Anyway, to reduce the usage of ZDDP lube, one can install the

Ford Hydraulic Roller Retro-Fit Kit :

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=31-1000&Category_Code=HRLKits

Comp Cams Retro Hydraulic Roller Cam for previous flat tappet style engines-

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CC&Category_Code=F351HRC

Honing: http://www.enginehones.com/technical.html -You might need to stick with recommended mfg specs-

The oil pump- Many threads on the high pressure vs. high volume- I believe the high pressure is the one to go for.

Time Chain: Get a good double roller for longevity.

That is my 2 cents worth!

mustang7173 :D

 
Hello Mr. Mach 1,

Love the body style of the Aussie Ford. It reminds me a bit of the famed RAF Hawker Hurricane IIA. Slim Spitfire nose with wide body. Anyway, to reduce the usage of ZDDP lube, one can install the

Ford Hydraulic Roller Retro-Fit Kit :

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=31-1000&Category_Code=HRLKits

Comp Cams Retro Hydraulic Roller Cam for previous flat tappet style engines-

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CC&Category_Code=F351HRC

Honing: http://www.enginehones.com/technical.html -You might need to stick with recommended mfg specs-

The oil pump- Many threads on the high pressure vs. high volume- I believe the high pressure is the one to go for.

Time Chain: Get a good double roller for longevity.

That is my 2 cents worth!

mustang7173 :D
I agree with the high pressure over high volume as I'm using the stock oil pan. I was also considering the retro roller cam. My thought is the roller will give get more air in & out without the extra duration. This will make more power and still give me a good idle and vacuum. Have you ever used one of these cams or have first hand knowledge ? Was thinking of using the 7/16" stud conversion with roller rockers.

Leon

 
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