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Stock versus not


murstang
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So I decided to throw the 15 inchers and hubcaps on the car for kicks. Yup. that lasted about an hour! It's now resting comfortably in the garage back on the 20's. And oh yeah, there's also a 5.0 EFI and AOD sitting beside it. Problem is, now that I've got the engine and trans I'm not convinced I want to swap out my Cleveland. What to do,what to do.

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Sorry, but I absolutely love the way it looks with the steel 14" (EDIT: 15") rims. With your car and it's stance, it looks as if one blended a cop car with a salt flats racer. Granted, it might be a bit low in front by an inch to do the 14's proper justice, but it's still good looking.

 

Are those '71-73-era 15" rims, or something else?

 

Those EFI 302 swaps are always interesting - would be interested to know what mileage those who have done the swap get with the EFI setup (depending on the block, heads, trans, rear axle and tires, of course) over the stock, carb'ed 302 2V.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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What's your intentions with the 5.0?

Just to have EFI?

As is, that Crown Vic spec engine will be way softer than the Cleveland. My stock 5.0 Mustang with AOD and 3.27's out back is not "impressive" to me in any respect. It's just a nice driver. Sure, mileage will go up a weee bit, but at what cost to the cool factor?

 

I feel your pain. I have 4 different engines in stock for when I get to wrenching on my '71. And, 4 different trannies with 3 setup differentials to confuse me even more.

Yep, what to do, what to do... :)

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs

'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...

'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater - SOLD

'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor

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The steel rims are 15" and according to my Marti report my car was optioned with competition suspension and F60x15 wide oval raised letter tires, so I believe they are correct for the car. I may try to find a 8" or 10" rear with the proper offset to stuff a 295 in the back, just to put on when the mood strikes. As for my plans with the 5.0 Liter. I've wrapped it up and put it away for now. I got it from the estate of a friend who passed away for a very fair price. But I really think I'll stick with the Cleveland. Yeah it burns some oil on hard acceleration, so a rebuild is in the future, but I like the idea of the original motor and trans in the car.

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The steel rims are 15" and according to my Marti report my car was optioned with competition suspension and F60x15 wide oval raised letter tires, so I believe they are correct for the car. ...

But I really think I'll stick with the Cleveland. Yeah it burns some oil on hard acceleration, so a rebuild is in the future, but I like the idea of the original motor and trans in the car.

 

 

I like the original setup with the wheels but I'd rather finish the look with the trim rings. You might try and go with 15x8 steel wheels in the back and your 15x7's on the front but still run the trim rings and caps. To me, that is the ultimate cool setup. It gets a little more tire in the back. Looks tough but not too far out there.

 

I like the original engine setup (or if not numbers matching, I really like close to correct). Prefer Clevelands but I've seen some nice 302 cars now sporting 429 or 460's and looking very good.

 

For me, I don't like the newer motors sound as compared to the older motors. I'm sure some of that is the muffler setups...

 

Best of luck in your build and enjoyment of your convertible!!!!!

 

Ray

1971 Boss 351  

1972 Q code 4 speed convertible 

1971 Mustang Sportsroof  351-2V FMX 

1971 Hardtop (parts car)

1973 Mach 1 (parts car)

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Although I sometimes like the cop car wheels on muscle cars (especially on Mopars) I must say that I really prefer your modern rims. If it were a coupe it would look cool, especially if the car was black, dark blue, red or white. For the red and the blue ones I´d paint the steel rims the color of the car, but on yours I don´t particularly like them.

Leave it on the 20ies. :)

What is funny though is that it still looks lowered. When I put my 15 inch Magnums on, the car looks completely stock and the lowering is all gone. How come yours still looks slammed?!?

The ride height of both our cars is approximately the same.

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Mike
"If I were you...... I´d rather be me." 😛
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Although I sometimes like the cop car wheels on muscle cars (especially on Mopars) I must say that I really prefer your modern rims. If it were a coupe it would look cool, especially if the car was black, dark blue, red or white. For the red and the blue ones I´d paint the steel rims the color of the car, but on yours I don´t particularly like them.

Leave it on the 20ies. :)

What is funny though is that it still looks lowered. When I put my 15 inch Magnums on, the car looks completely stock and the lowering is all gone. How come yours still looks slammed?!?

The ride height of both our cars is approximately the same.

 

Hi Mike. Not to worry, the 20's are staying, but I've got to say, if I could find a set of 15" Magnums I would like to try them on the car with a set of 50 series tires. When I see all the Mustangs on this site with them I get the urge to lift the car a touch and run Magnums. Really one of the best looking wheels (factory or otherwise) ever made.

My drop may be a touch deeper than yours (not necessarily a good thing). If you look at the side profile of mine you can see that axle center line is about even with the lower body line. The 20's on the front actually raise the car a bit versus running 17's or 18's in the front. But as it is now I am at the limit of driving pleasure. On the highway it's all good but Holy @$#& if I nail a pot hole. Not fun, and even though I have machined a set of spacers for the top a-arms to correct my camber I still have some ball joint bind.

Another thing to consider is how the tires fill the wheel well. With a smaller diameter you can push the tires farther out in the wheelwells for a more muscular look whereas my 20's are sunk in pretty deeply just so I can turn loc to loc without hitting the front or back of the wheelwells. If It weren't so low it would look like a wheelbarrow.

I really like the way your car sits and the wheels and tires. Low and tough.


The steel rims are 15" and according to my Marti report my car was optioned with competition suspension and F60x15 wide oval raised letter tires, so I believe they are correct for the car. ...

But I really think I'll stick with the Cleveland. Yeah it burns some oil on hard acceleration, so a rebuild is in the future, but I like the idea of the original motor and trans in the car.

 

 

I like the original setup with the wheels but I'd rather finish the look with the trim rings. You might try and go with 15x8 steel wheels in the back and your 15x7's on the front but still run the trim rings and caps. To me, that is the ultimate cool setup. It gets a little more tire in the back. Looks tough but not too far out there.

 

I like the original engine setup (or if not numbers matching, I really like close to correct). Prefer Clevelands but I've seen some nice 302 cars now sporting 429 or 460's and looking very good.

 

For me, I don't like the newer motors sound as compared to the older motors. I'm sure some of that is the muffler setups...

 

Best of luck in your build and enjoyment of your convertible!!!!!

 

Ray

 

Looks like the Cleveland and FMX are staying. They are the original ones to the car. With the 2 something series rear gear its nothing to brag about for 0 to 60 but it cruise all day long at 80. As for mufflers, I'm running welded Thrush mufflers, and they sound great! I have run Flowmasters in the past and I prefer the welded Thrushes. I emphasize the welded Thrushes because I made the mistake of running regular Turbo Thrushes on my truck and it just sounded like an old dump truck.

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Sorry, but I absolutely love the way it looks with the steel 14" (EDIT: 15") rims. With your car and it's stance, it looks as if one blended a cop car with a salt flats racer. Granted, it might be a bit low in front by an inch to do the 14's proper justice, but it's still good looking.

 

Are those '71-73-era 15" rims, or something else?

 

Those EFI 302 swaps are always interesting - would be interested to know what mileage those who have done the swap get with the EFI setup (depending on the block, heads, trans, rear axle and tires, of course) over the stock, carb'ed 302 2V.

 

-Kurt

 

w/my 72 convertible, I love the conversion from 8.6:1 compression to resto-mod rebuild from hydraulic lifters to lunati solid lifters and adjustible cam w/improved oilers @ 9.5:1 compression ratio w/350 and 2 barrel Edelbrock intake manifold onto functional ram air/700 cfm 4 barrel part of Holley 5.7 liter forced induction mpefi w.change out to Hooker long tube headers. As this produced @ 400 hp from engine ie @305 ft lbs torque and @ 290 rwhp however 0-60mph @ 6.0 seconds @ 8 mpg at 3.5:1 rear axle ratio & nominal guestimation of @ 12.3 seconds on 1/4 mile @ 103 mph (to be officially clock on a track @ spring. Knew w/@ 3950 lbs bob weight however not willing to invest on an alluminum spun tranny to replace the original cast iron toploader and a lighter aluminum w/a lower axle ratio and bi-turbo, rather installed a Gear Vendors over drive and chucking dront and rear drum breaks for power disc brake conversion brakes all around for optimal stopping.

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I like both sets. The steelies give it an old school stock car type vibe. I'd stash the Cleveland and FMX under the bench and go with the fuel injected 5.0 and AOD. The weight off the nose will improve the car's balance and the FI 5.0 will make every bit as much power as the cleveland for less cash. The added benefits are weight and efficiency.

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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I love the look of the lowered car with 15's. I can imagine with a different wheel, like Magnums, Torq's etc would look good. 20's prove I'm just a grouchy old man.... cuz I cant visualize on a classic. However I've seen 16's and some 17's that I DO like.

 

67 Diamond Blue Vert

 

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the FI 5.0 will make every bit as much power as the cleveland for less cash.

That 5.0 will not. It is the 150 hp version out of a panther platform car.

1973 Mach 1 Q code 351 4V, 9A paint, standard interior, 3.50 rear, C6 trans.

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