How important is the convertible torque plate?

I have a 73 convertible and am going to be doing some work to it that may include exhaust reroutes and such. The convertibles have a torque plate (maybe the wrong term) just behind the transmission.

How long can I drive around without this in place? I have weld on subframe connectors, do I even need the torque plate anymore? Ford wouldn't have put them on if they were not needed. I assume since the convertibles didn't have the support of a hard top these added some kind of rigidity?

On a vert you want everything that helps keeping it rigid, so I would say Keep it on. As you said Ford put it there for a reason.

I wish that subframe connectors were legal in my country so I could put them on.

you need it, unless you have a cross bar tied into the sub frame connectors that does the same job as that plate. guys that took it off without some other form of re-enforcement twisted the frames over time. Verts are very soft in the middle you need original and then some to make them stop flexing.

the hard tops are not much better in all honestly.

Okay, you all think a 15 mile drive to my exhaust guy and then another short drive to a customizer who would modify/replace the plate would be okay?

Also, I was wonder what you all thought about adding some spacers to it. Get some 1/4" piece cut for both side and some longer bolts. I think if I drop it down a little I will be okay space wise.

Lux, that is a shame they won't let you put them on. Our friends in Switzerland said they are also limited to what they can do.

Will, your car is solid so 15 miles would be fine

Spacers and longer bolts may weaken the effectiveness

You can add a plate / structure inside of the car too, like the one made for the early cars. Plus the original "spacered " plate

Item #3647Y

65-68 SEAT PLATFORM CONVERTIBLE

Convertible one piece seat base panel, covers both driver and passenger side seat bases. Use this raised platform to reinforce floor, reduce body flex and secure seats.

You would just need to make the over the tunnel plate

Then use the spacer / bolts on the underside plate

Or can your fabricator guy make some cross braces out of tubing

You could do 3 bolt in tubing braces VS the large plate

Muffer shop guy might be able to make something too

65-68 seats bolt down differently than 71-73s, so keep that in mind it thinking about the modification.

65-68 seats bolt down differently than 71-73s, so keep that in mind it thinking about the modification.

Click to expand...

I showed the P/N as an example

I advised he would need to make the plate over the tunnel

" You would just need to make the over the tunnel plate "

It would be way to much work to try and used the 65 - 8 platform parts in a 71-3

Okay, you all think a 15 mile drive to my exhaust guy and then another short drive to a customizer who would modify/replace the plate would be okay?

Also, I was wonder what you all thought about adding some spacers to it. Get some 1/4" piece cut for both side and some longer bolts. I think if I drop it down a little I will be okay space wise.

Lux, that is a shame they won't let you put them on. Our friends in Switzerland said they are also limited to what they can do.

Click to expand...

Why will it be necessary to modify/replace the plate after the exhaust is done?

That's my question too, why can't the exhaust guy remove it and reinstall it? I'm running 2-1/4" exhaust above the plate and have enough room to go to 2-1/2".

Yeah, I don´t know what the size of those exhaust tubes will be but they can easily fit above the plate.

The stock setup was that way too.

Here´s what my car looks underneath. The exhaust is a 2 1/4 repro exhaust, Edelbrock mufflers and Hedman shorty headers.

I am going to install one of these:



And the actual GV unit is going to be close to or inside of the tunnel where the plate is. I should have it test fit today or tomorrow. There might not be enough room for it and the exhaust without modification. It's going to be close for sure and I have to have some space between chassis/exhaust/GV.

Very nice will e. I bought a 66 from a guy about ten years back. The plate was missing when I got it. When I inquired about it, the seller said it was missing when he bought it. It was his daily for two years. I have not seen any fatigue cracks from its absence. As stated by others. The early models had upper and lower reinforcements in the convertible body. I'm thinking you should fabricate an extended plate that will clear your GV and future exhaust. Twisting flex is what I believe to be the issue.

I am going to install one of these:



And the actual GV unit is going to be close to or inside of the tunnel where the plate is. I should have it test fit today or tomorrow. There might not be enough room for it and the exhaust without modification. It's going to be close for sure and I have to have some space between chassis/exhaust/GV.

Click to expand...

I forgot you had that squirreled away

I can certainly see now why you may have a clearance issue.

I wish that subframe connectors were legal in my country so I could put them on.

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Wait... what? For real?

They'd have to throw me in jail.

Gotta catch me first.

Just to add my foolish experience to the wisdom here....

My greasy "torque plate" is still in the trunk of the 'vert, ready for cleaning and reinstalling after 1000 miles of short trips, burnouts, and such since the engine rebuild and obligatory exhaust (2 1/2 inch) mods. I don't see any issues with the reinstall of the plate, beyond jacking the damn thing up, putting it on jack stands, and related PIA DIY issues... :s /whine/

I am going to install one of these:

And the actual GV unit is going to be close to or inside of the tunnel where the plate is. I should have it test fit today or tomorrow. There might not be enough room for it and the exhaust without modification. It's going to be close for sure and I have to have some space between chassis/exhaust/GV.

Click to expand...

Will, correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that huge Gear Vendors extension housing intended for truck/RV applications?

Isn't the short unit the correct version to use in a vehicle the size of the Mustang?



vs.



The tail end of the one you have now is probably going to wind up somewhere near your mufflers (!).

-Kurt

Ah yes... the Gear Vendor! If the plate will not fit with the O/D unit and exhaust I'd recommend fabricating a tubular unit that will clear them. I think bolting it directly to the floor is critical. If using extensions or stand-offs with the original plate there will be enough leverage to make the plate ineffective. The plate is made of pretty substantial material and I would think it is necessary. I am comparing this to the strut tower braces which are pretty flimsy construction and are generally regarded as critical.

I am going to install one of these:

And the actual GV unit is going to be close to or inside of the tunnel where the plate is. I should have it test fit today or tomorrow. There might not be enough room for it and the exhaust without modification. It's going to be close for sure and I have to have some space between chassis/exhaust/GV.

Click to expand...

Will, correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that huge Gear Vendors extension housing intended for truck/RV applications?

Isn't the short unit the correct version to use in a vehicle the size of the Mustang?

vs.

The tail end of the one you have now is probably going to wind up somewhere near your mufflers (!).

-Kurt

Click to expand...

It actually puts the OD right about where the plate goes, maybe even a litte forward of it. I will know more today. I did call GV and discussed which one would work better for my mustang. I specifically mentioned both the plate, the clearence concerns and if I should go with the short housing. The guy said they recommend the standard housing, not the shorty. He said it was the cleanest fit and the long one works with the stock transmission cross member.

Among other things I did get the plate removed. It is heavy material. I am wondering if I might just be able to get it cut a little. I should know how bad it is by end of day.

Ok, got the thing test fit. It basically starts where the plate does and ends where the plate ends. While there is room to clear exhaust on the passenger side, there is no way to get anything past on the driver side. A custom tube bracket wouldn't help much either since it would hang down lower than if I just run the exhaust under the plate. Doing so also has the advantage of keeping the heat away from the GV. Using the shorty tail shaft might work, that requires pulling the transmission and installing a shorter shaft. I am not sure it wouldn't hit the gearshifter if I went this route.

I did some measuring and pipes not running in the plate may not hang down any lower than my subframe connectors. So I am going to go that route and see how it works out. If I don't like it I can always swap in the short shaft.

I will put together an 'install' write up for the tech section. I took lots of pictures.