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1971 Mustang Convertible - Code Name: Burn Victim


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The metal on the car is surprisingly straight to the naked eye but it could be a little out of shape considering the hood had a pretty good wave in it. It seems like the majority goes towards replacing panels. That's probably what I will end up doing to be on the safe side. I plan on purchasing a parts car anyway so it might be possible to find one with decent fenders, or I might just go aftermarket.

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It's funny that you say that because I feel like your car looks really well balanced as is.

 

The black top and chrome windshield surround go well together.

 

Thanks for the kind words. By the way, I blacked out the chrome around the windshield and it looks even better in my opinion but I think that is because the car is yellow. I dunno if it would work on a red car.

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Mike
"If I were you...... I´d rather be me." 😛
Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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620352_489553307722560_1033354282_o.thumb.jpg.958fa0d94a3437aeff732db99d82e81e.jpg

419668_393256894018869_1446795936_n.jpg.5277e9485d712becb2cc728daebf2d22.jpg

here are a few before pictures

 

 

y.thumb.jpg.064e62045a230b893df489075895f9ee.jpg

340826_501311956546695_504636161_o.thumb.jpg.df9485418c2e7a9596da1984609e3f84.jpg

and some after but I am going to take her all apart again when I get back to the states and have her soda blasted and por-15 after the metal work is done then smoothed and primed at least before I reassemble her for the last time hopefully.

2cossj6.png

97 F150: wrecked, 96 Dodge 4x4: blown motor / donated to the base

88 Suburban 4x4 355 cid 8 inch lift: sold, 95 Celica 5 speed : sold

68 F750 391 cid : sold,  96 F350 7.3 diesel dually : sold

86 Chevy 1500 305 cid c1500: sold, 73 Mustang mach 1 466 cid 5 speed : under construction

89 F350 4x4 cummins swap : sold, 64 Dodge d600: gone

00 Excursion: traded, 72 Mustang mach 1 302: scrapped

73 Mustang coupe: scrapped, 73 ranchero gt

06 Honda crf 450x : sold, 04 Honda vtx 1800

88 Bronco xlt lariat: sold, 76 Charger: traded

95 F350 4x4: sold , 91 Crown Victoria 302: sold

02 Dakota: traded, 96 f250 powerstroke: parts truck

87 f700, 98 e350 powerstroke: sold

03 land rover: traded, 95 f350 dually: part out

95 f350 dually: traded, 94 f150 4x4: traded

97 f250: sold, 76 Maverick 302: sold

91 240sx rb25: sold, 86 firebird: sold

86 Trans Am: sold, 88 westernstar: sold

89 dodge d350: sold, 2000 Dakota 4x4: sold  

84 f350 3+3: sold, 90 bronco: partout

67 catalina, 64 chevy c60

64 jeep j200, 74 corvette stingray

79 Lincoln mark V, 2013 f350: goldilocks

 

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here are a few before pictures

 

 

 

 

and some after but I am going to take her all apart again when I get back to the states and have her soda blasted and por-15 after the metal work is done then smoothed and primed at least before I reassemble her for the last time hopefully.

 

Cool looking headlights, what are they?

Mike AKA Ole Pony & Rare Pony
Our current Mustang garage/driveway
1973 Mustang Convert - Bought in 1974 - Still have it!
2004 Mach 1 Oxford White Auto, Bought Sept 06

20180127_082009.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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hid projector headlights 10k they have a blueish tinge to them bu super bright and are more power conservative then the original ones and they have a hidden led bulb that you can hook up to your park lights but you cant see them when the headlights are on

2cossj6.png

97 F150: wrecked, 96 Dodge 4x4: blown motor / donated to the base

88 Suburban 4x4 355 cid 8 inch lift: sold, 95 Celica 5 speed : sold

68 F750 391 cid : sold,  96 F350 7.3 diesel dually : sold

86 Chevy 1500 305 cid c1500: sold, 73 Mustang mach 1 466 cid 5 speed : under construction

89 F350 4x4 cummins swap : sold, 64 Dodge d600: gone

00 Excursion: traded, 72 Mustang mach 1 302: scrapped

73 Mustang coupe: scrapped, 73 ranchero gt

06 Honda crf 450x : sold, 04 Honda vtx 1800

88 Bronco xlt lariat: sold, 76 Charger: traded

95 F350 4x4: sold , 91 Crown Victoria 302: sold

02 Dakota: traded, 96 f250 powerstroke: parts truck

87 f700, 98 e350 powerstroke: sold

03 land rover: traded, 95 f350 dually: part out

95 f350 dually: traded, 94 f150 4x4: traded

97 f250: sold, 76 Maverick 302: sold

91 240sx rb25: sold, 86 firebird: sold

86 Trans Am: sold, 88 westernstar: sold

89 dodge d350: sold, 2000 Dakota 4x4: sold  

84 f350 3+3: sold, 90 bronco: partout

67 catalina, 64 chevy c60

64 jeep j200, 74 corvette stingray

79 Lincoln mark V, 2013 f350: goldilocks

 

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hid projector headlights 10k they have a blueish tinge to them bu super bright and are more power conservative then the original ones and they have a hidden led bulb that you can hook up to your park lights but you cant see them when the headlights are on

 

Thanks for posting the pictures Auron. Those headlights are pretty cool looking, I might have to look into those. I don't want to put anything out of place on the car but they wouldn't look much different than stock and would make a cool update.

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I have worked on two different flame job vehicles and both had long term issues with the burnt, stripped, sealed, and repainted panels holding up.

 

Both cars had the noses burnt off like yours and the panels bubbled and rusted from the inside out starting about a year after they were redone.

 

- Paul

Exactly..I wouldn't use any of the burnt sheet metal PERIOD..The out come down the road isn't going to be good..With out going into a to technical explanation..the metal expands from the heat the pores open..all the impurities from the fire get in..the fire dept comes..shoots water on it the metal shrinks.in essence locking in the impurities.. Theres a reason the Insurance company didn't repair that car & paid off the owner (besides the fact it would cost more than the car is worth) They know they would be married to it..In all my years of adjusting claims I never repaired a car burnt like that..totaled every time..Looking at the auction yard picture it looks like the fire was pretty intense in the engine compartment & you need to do a real evaluation of the damage to the inner structure to see just how far bad the burn is in the towers.. frame rails.. crossmembers...firewall..It may have compromised the strutal integrity of those components..At the bare minimum if those areas are ok ..I would completely gut the car & media blast the entire car top to bottom..replace the aprons rad support fenders hood etc. If you want the most definitive answer as to the correct approved repair procedure I would actually contact Ford directly..They have tech bulletins repair documents that can be had..You could also check with I-Car who actually has a course on fire damage assessment..I don't think your going to like what you hear though..Heres a bit on repairing salvage fire damage

 

Risks of not complying with manufacturer guidelines or best industry practices

If you repair a vehicle without the guidelines or to best industry practice, you run the risk of the vehicle being incorrectly repaired and its structural integrity being compromised. This may result in the area of repair being significantly weaker or stronger than originally intended by the manufacturer, leading to the crashworthiness of the vehicle being compromised and potentially catastrophic results if the vehicle is involved in an accident.

 

Fire affected vehicles

Generally, a fire damaged vehicle will usually be assessed as a Statutory Write-Off. In the case where the fire damage is minor and the vehicle is assessed as a repairable write-off, the fire damaged components must be replaced. It should be understood that the heat in the incident may not be limited to the immediate fire area, and have affected other components in the vehicle, especially high strength light alloy steels in key structural components. Repairing such a vehicle may facilitate replacement of major components that have been heat affected, and may become more costly than estimated.


Just to add: Not sure if your aware of the motor vehicle law in your state concerning the rebuild of a salvage vehicle..You need to document everything have every receipt for every part..Than have an Inspection apply for a new title..

 

IC 9-22-3-15

Rebuilt salvage motor vehicles; issuance of certificate of title

Sec. 15. If a salvage motor vehicle is rebuilt for operation upon the highways and ownership is evidenced by a certificate of salvage title, the person who owns the vehicle shall apply to the bureau for a certificate of title. The bureau shall issue a certificate of title that lists each person who holds a lien on the vehicle to the person who owns the vehicle when the following are completed:

(1) The inspection of the vehicle by a police officer.

(2) The verification of proof of ownership of major component parts used and the source of the major component parts.

(3) The surrender of the certificate of salvage title properly executed with an affidavit concerning the major component parts on a form prescribed by the bureau.

(4) The payment of the fee required under IC 9-29-7.

 

IC 9-22-3-8

Vehicle restoration; affidavits

Sec. 8. If a salvage motor vehicle has been flood damaged, extensively burned, vandalized, or severely wrecked so that one (1) or more component parts are required to restore the motor vehicle to an operable condition, the person or business that restored the motor vehicle must furnish, on an affidavit of restoration for a salvage motor vehicle form, the name, identification number, and source of all component parts that were included in the restoration of the vehicle. The affidavit must be attached to the certificate of salvage title and be submitted to the bureau upon application by a person for a certificate of title for the vehicle.

 

Here's the link to the Law:

http://www.in.gov/legislative/ic/code/title9/ar22/ch3.html

 

http://www.dmv.org/in-indiana/salvaged-vehicles.php

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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First, thank you very much Qcode for the post, lots of good info in there.

 

What you said about the metal expanding and contracting really makes sense and I can see why it would be next to impossible to get paint to stick to it again.

 

I don't disagree with the fire impacting the structural integrity of certain components that suffered from heat damage. The plan is to get a parts car to work from and swapping the entire nose of the car, inner structure and everything, might be the best plan.

 

I will have to look into the I-car course plus I have connections at most of the local Ford stores. As far as liking what I hear, I didn't expect to when I bought the car. I have accepted it as a big project from the beginning. I've been called borderline OCD anyway so I would have a hard time half-assing the car. I don't expect a show car but I know it needs to be right when it's done.

 

When it comes to title brands and the process, I have a pretty good handle on it.

 

I'm sure your information will come in handy as I'm working on the car so I really appreciate your info and advise as well as everyone else's. This forum in general has been nothing but helpful.

 

I like red verts. Good luck with your project.

 

 

John J

 

Methinks you might be a little biased... that's OK though.:D Thanks

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Wow Q that's good info my fire was just the carb and top plastics / wires and was put out with what based on the residue in the intake was a powder extinguisher.

2cossj6.png

97 F150: wrecked, 96 Dodge 4x4: blown motor / donated to the base

88 Suburban 4x4 355 cid 8 inch lift: sold, 95 Celica 5 speed : sold

68 F750 391 cid : sold,  96 F350 7.3 diesel dually : sold

86 Chevy 1500 305 cid c1500: sold, 73 Mustang mach 1 466 cid 5 speed : under construction

89 F350 4x4 cummins swap : sold, 64 Dodge d600: gone

00 Excursion: traded, 72 Mustang mach 1 302: scrapped

73 Mustang coupe: scrapped, 73 ranchero gt

06 Honda crf 450x : sold, 04 Honda vtx 1800

88 Bronco xlt lariat: sold, 76 Charger: traded

95 F350 4x4: sold , 91 Crown Victoria 302: sold

02 Dakota: traded, 96 f250 powerstroke: parts truck

87 f700, 98 e350 powerstroke: sold

03 land rover: traded, 95 f350 dually: part out

95 f350 dually: traded, 94 f150 4x4: traded

97 f250: sold, 76 Maverick 302: sold

91 240sx rb25: sold, 86 firebird: sold

86 Trans Am: sold, 88 westernstar: sold

89 dodge d350: sold, 2000 Dakota 4x4: sold  

84 f350 3+3: sold, 90 bronco: partout

67 catalina, 64 chevy c60

64 jeep j200, 74 corvette stingray

79 Lincoln mark V, 2013 f350: goldilocks

 

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Nothing major going on with the Mustang but I figured I would put a small update online. First I have a potential lead on a fresh 351C that I would dearly love to have in the car. My original plan was to try to use the 302 that's in the Mustang now but I almost can't pass on this motor, I just don't have the money for it at the moment but I'd like to try to put something together on it. I'll keep you guys updated if anything happens with it. Second the steering wheel that's in my car is pretty worn out and I don't much care for the style of it and my dad mentioned he had one that might work. Well he made the effort to pull it out of his Collection O' Parts and told me I could have it if I could make it nice enough to put in the car. I will admit I didn't think I could make it as nice as I would have liked it but it actually came out very nice for the age.

 

This is after washing all the dirt off from just sitting around. The picture doesn't show it well but the spokes had quite a few spots that were pitted, especially on the back side.20140122_162355.jpg

 

I used some really fine steel wool and polishing compound to clean up the spokes and they came really clean. The outer rim has a little wear on it but it's definitely nice enough to put in the car. He wasn't sure if he had the center cap for it or not but that's probably not a huge deal to get a hold of.

20140122_191457.jpg

 

It was advertised to me as a 70s Ford wheel. He said he has had quite a few of them that he used in various cars. Have any of you guys used this wheel in your own cars?

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I had that same wheel in my 72 for a while until I found a mint rimblow. That wheels nice though comfy grip and a little thicker gives a sporty feel compared to the ultra thin original wheel, diameters a little smaller too so if your tall it's kinda nice no knees rubbing the wheel.

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These mustangs in my opinion are some of the handsomest verts out there. If you feel that you can put it back on the road, go for it! you got our support!!!

 

(just please dont put gigantic chrome rims on plz. Stick with some 5 spokes) ::D:

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, you sure as Hell don't have time to do it right the second time.

 

Dutch uncle

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I'd want to know exactly how extensive the fire damage is. If the shock towers, cross-members, and frame rails are fire damaged, you might need to consider swapping out the entire front clip. It's doable - trust me. ;) But also very involved (especially with a 'vert) and accuracy is critical. Q's excellent advice and references helped me do mine.

 

Fortunately (and Unfortunately as well), just about all of the affected sheet metal pieces EXCEPT the shock towers, cross-members, and full frame rails are available as repops. Getting a 'new' front clip from a good donor vehicle can be done if you're wanting and needing to go that far.

 

That steering wheel is AWESOME!! ::thumb:: I'm going with a Grant Classic wheel that looks almost the same (chrome spokes, black foam grip). As nice as it is, I'd definitely use that wheel in the car. It's gonna be sharp!

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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I had that same wheel in my 72 for a while until I found a mint rimblow. That wheels nice though comfy grip and a little thicker gives a sporty feel compared to the ultra thin original wheel, diameters a little smaller too so if your tall it's kinda nice no knees rubbing the wheel.

 

I think it will definitely feel a little sportier. I'm not a huge guy (the phrase big boned comes to mind though) but 6'1" and 215 would fit a little better behind a slightly smaller wheel.

 

I'd want to know exactly how extensive the fire damage is. If the shock towers, cross-members, and frame rails are fire damaged, you might need to consider swapping out the entire front clip. It's doable - trust me. ;) But also very involved (especially with a 'vert) and accuracy is critical. Q's excellent advice and references helped me do mine.

 

Fortunately (and Unfortunately as well), just about all of the affected sheet metal pieces EXCEPT the shock towers, cross-members, and full frame rails are available as repops. Getting a 'new' front clip from a good donor vehicle can be done if you're wanting and needing to go that far.

 

That steering wheel is AWESOME!! ::thumb:: I'm going with a Grant Classic wheel that looks almost the same (chrome spokes, black foam grip). As nice as it is, I'd definitely use that wheel in the car. It's gonna be sharp!

 

I'm waiting to make any assumptions on the condition until at least the body panels are off and the motor is out. I'm prepared to do whatever it takes (within reason) to make it right but it's a little early to make a definite plan. Everyone has been exceptionally helpful in giving me options and things to look for.

 

From what I have seen, Grant makes some good looking wheels so I'm sure one would look great in your car. In my opinion, the coolest thing about my wheel is it belonged to my dad so it has some value beyond just being a cool old steering wheel.

 

These mustangs in my opinion are some of the handsomest verts out there. If you feel that you can put it back on the road, go for it! you got our support!!!

 

(just please dont put gigantic chrome rims on plz. Stick with some 5 spokes) ::D:

 

I swear, no gigantic chrome rims. Some people like that stuff, admittedly I have some friends that would probably like that, but I'll keep it classy. If I'm lucky I'll be able to save the front rim that got scorched and I'll keep those on the car. They are 17s and honestly I think they look great.

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  • 4 years later...

Well here's a 4 year update. Not much new with the car. I have it 90% torn down and ready for the body to be soda blasted. The car sat in storage for a couple years and is now making my garage it's home.

 

20180723_223721.jpg

 

20180723_223705.jpg

 

20180721_213538.jpg

 

Last year I parted out a 2013 F150 that donated it's 5.0 V8. So new game plan in a nutshell:

 

- Coyote swap with some cam/intake work

- Rod n Custom front suspension swap w/coilovers

- 6r80 automatic

- 8.8 or 9 inch rear end with disc brakes

- Custom tubular front subframe support

- Subframe connectors

- $$$$$$$$$$

 

So in the coming week or 2 I need to get the rest of the car taken apart and sent to my soda blaster. My end goal is 400 RWHP which I think I can achieve fairly easily with some hot rodding on the 5.0.

 

So resto-mod, pro-touring, custom is the direction I decided to go with the car. My concept is somewhat of a 47 year update. Car was originally a 302 automatic car, so here's the modern version of that.

 

On a side note, has anyone here used the rod n custom kit? I'd love some input on that.

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When you Soda blast you have to do an exceptional job of neutralizing the soda. If you do not you will have paint nightmares forever. Soda will usually not take rust off either only paint. You might look at plastic media for paint, plastic will not take rust off either. and rust is a huge issue. You cannot sand blast exterior panels why will warp and be scrap. Chassis is ok to sand blast but no exterior. If your blasting supplier says otherwise he is crazy.

The heat does not do much unless it gets hot enough for the panels to sag or warp.

D

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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When you Soda blast you have to do an exceptional job of neutralizing the soda. If you do not you will have paint nightmares forever. Soda will usually not take rust off either only paint. You might look at plastic media for paint, plastic will not take rust off either. and rust is a huge issue. You cannot sand blast exterior panels why will warp and be scrap. Chassis is ok to sand blast but no exterior. If your blasting supplier says otherwise he is crazy.

The heat does not do much unless it gets hot enough for the panels to sag or warp.

D

 

Great point you brought up. I've done a ton of research on the topic, like hours on top of hours since I originally bought the car. At this point I believe my blaster is going to spray an etching primer himself after blasting and cleaning the car. Should avoid any issues that way since he will be responsible for the paint sticking as well. I asked him about the potential problems directly and he answered my question confidently. This guy blasts a majority of the show quality cars in my area and has been recommended heavily by everyone who knew who he was. Thanks for the advice

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