Subframe Connectors

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Joined
Jul 22, 2012
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426
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Location
Arlington, Wa
My Car
1973 Q Code Mach 1. I am the second owner.
I have 2 things I want to get done to my 73 Mach 1 this year, sub-frame connectors and getting my door sagging issue fixed. My question is which sub-frames are the best to use and I don't want them hanging too far down where they can be easily seen. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 
Tinman Fabrication makes an excellent weld in connector. They run from the torque boxes to the front rear leaf spring eye. They add no additional ground clearance issues. They stiffen things up nicely. I have a cross brace from them too with a nice driveshaft safety loop, but it will have to wait until I redo my exhaust.

Bolt ins are nearly worthless.

If you were ever going to put an aftermarket rear suspension in the car, you would want to use their corresponding sub frame connectors.

 
Global West for sub-frame connectors, I have them, quality, ease of installation was great. I had already sent back a ill fitting set from another vendor.

 
Tinman Fabrication makes an excellent weld in connector. They run from the torque boxes to the front rear leaf spring eye. They add no additional ground clearance issues. They stiffen things up nicely. I have a cross brace from them too with a nice driveshaft safety loop, but it will have to wait until I redo my exhaust.

Bolt ins are nearly worthless.

If you were ever going to put an aftermarket rear suspension in the car, you would want to use their corresponding sub frame connectors.
+1 on Tinman. they were easy to install.

-jbojo

 
I did global west about 25 years or so ago and they have been great. I use them as a jacking point. A real must on convertibles.

And if you go over a curb they double up as a nice off road slider:

P1010297.jpg


 
I did global west about 25 years or so ago and they have been great. I use them as a jacking point. A real must on convertibles.

And if you go over a curb they double up as a nice off road slider:

P1010297.jpg
Jeg has them for $169 right now with free shipping. I think this is a really good price.

 
round tubes resist torque better than square, given same tube wall thickness. Actually octagon formed tubes are supposed to be best but i've never seen any used for this application.

 
I recently installed the Tin Man while I had it on a Frame/table Jig. I thought they installed well, but I have no experience with any other type. I purchased them from Jeg's and saved a few bucks and free shipping for what its worth.

 
I modeled mine as a cross between the Global West and Maier Racing pieces.

We just built a set for the stock eliminator car too.

The front inserts about 18" inside the front framerails through holes bored in the ends.

IMG_1192.JPG

IMG_1191.JPG

 
Obsidian71 welded in some square tubing to make it look like his front and rear frame was one piece. Looked solid and aesthetically pleasing. Although he sold his project, the work was very good and the idea even better. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-sn71?page=5

 
Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
Will post pics for you tomorrow when i go to the shop i used connectors from NPD for our 71 mach 1 he cut into the front torque box for a solid weld front and back it came out Bad Ass as the car will have a 429 w/600 ft lbs of tq. It needed connecting. Will post Pics

 
I love the Global West units on mine. They are (and have been) holding up the back end of my car for around 6 months now (on jacks while I've been working on, blowing off, and ignoring bleeding the brakes in favor of other projects - Inline Tube flare fittings kinda suck... I had to just about kill 'em tightening them down to keep them from seeping).

No experience with the ones from Tinman, though. Sorry.

 
I GOT MINE FROM LAUREL MOUNTAIN MUSTANG AND WAS REALLY PLEASED WITH THEM. oPEND UP THE FRONT FRAME RAILS AND SLID THEM IN TO GET A NICE GOOD WELD. tHEY CONTOURED TO THE FLOOR VERY NICELY.

 
I don't think that you could go wrong with any of the subframe connectors mentioned so far. I saw some that you had to cut holes into the floor to get them to fit and I would avoid those as well as the bolt on ones.

-jbojo

 
I would think the Global West tubular are stronger but they are also alot more noticeable because they don't match the factory square design. As was said before I would think any of them are a big improvement over stock welded in.

 
Just checked and Jegs still has the Global West's for $166 with free shipping. Maybe this is what I'll do with my tax refund. Now that I have a welder and what not...

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