Building my 351C 2V

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Joined
Feb 11, 2014
Messages
37
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0
Location
La Habra Heights, CA
My Car
72 Mach 1
79 Ranchero
79 Corvette
I’m rather new to this forum but have been told to ask questions and post pictures. So here’s a little background and a few pictures of what I have to start with. In some of the pictures of the engine area the rust looks much worse than it is. The only area that really needs to be cut out and replace is at a couple of lower body panels.

I’m getting ready to start the restoration of my 72 Mach 1 and looking for some advice. To start with I have what looks to me to be a completely stock 351C 2V engine, FMX transmission, and I was told it has some kind of traction lock rear end. It has factory air, drum brakes front and rear and a thrashed interior. This rebuild project is not for resale intent but instead a project my son and I can do together and end up with a really cool car to drive. (Initially for ME to drive and EVENTUALLY for my son to have).

I have a fair amount of mechanical ability but not enough to actually do the engine rebuild myself. I’d like to build up that 2v engine to put out in the 400 HP range. I’ll be talking with a local engine rebuilder that I’m told has a long term good reputation but I’d like to go to him with a bit more knowledge about the 351C than I have right now. It is my initial plan to replace the 2V heads with aftermarket aluminum heads or original 4V heads and change cam, crank, lifters, etc. to whatever will get my desired HP results.

My main questions are want are the best heads to use on the 351C block? And… Since I’m not at all familiar with the FMX transmission, how will it hold up to the additional horse power? This may not be the place to ask but I also wanted to change at least the front brakes to disc but have been told that I won’t be able to run the stock 14 inch rims if I do. Any advice on that would be good as well.

Then I read the “The Amazing 351C 4V” thread posted by Don65Stang. This gave me even more questions. I don’t understand the “exhaust gas bounce” stuff at all. I don’t mind doing appropriate modifications but I also want to keep that original look the 71-73’s had. I do like the idea of the ram-air and I do plan on adding the blackout hood paint.

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Mike, welcome.

You certainly have come to the one and only place for all things 71-73.

Everything you're attempting to do has been done by many here so you won't be short of good accurate advice.

I see you've got a very good car to start with. This is a big plus!

The rest is relatively easy! Hehe

I see it is a 2fo5h code. A very good starting point.

If you are going to pull the engine, think about an overdrive auto.

The fmx drives me nuts revving so hard on the freeway. I'll be changing this soon.

If it's drivable and you want make it better.

Assuming the engine is healthy, make sure you are happy with the gearing. Eg' diff, trans.

Bolting on a pair of better heads, it's the icing on the cake.

Do that last.

If it was me, I would fix the paint if needed, then the interior, electrical, suspension, brakes first.

Unless you need to pull the motor out for a cam change, etc.

If you're going to do that, it'll make it easier to do the engine bay, gearbox, among other things.

Where are you at with it?

.Jim

 
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What a cool project.

You can convert the front to disc brakes and it will work with 14" rims no problem.

I don't have an opinon on the FMX. I had one in my car but swapped it out for a c6. The big problem with FMX is the parts are a little harder to find. If you are going to swap transmissions go with a 4 speed that has an overdrive.

On to the engine. Speed is money, how fast do you want to spend?? ;) You also have to consider your son will be driving this and while a lot of horse power is fun these old cars don't have active traction control, ABS, air bags, etc. A little less might be more in this case.

How much are you willing to spend on the motor? How drivable do you want it? The stock 2v heads have a lot of potential. A nice cam, a 4 barrel manifold (for a 2v head) and carb will wake the motor up a lot. We don't have variable valve trains so cam choice is important. I would go roller cam (and will next swap). They are a premium but have a lot of advantages.

Finding an engine builder who understands the Cleveland will be important. They had a short run. The chevy small block rules don't all apply.

If you want to go aftermarket heads there are some nice choices. I will let someone else chime in on those.

 
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I didn't take a pic of the VIN tag but it's 2F05H203018 so I guess it makes this 5H code. I've only had experience with the C6 in my 73 and after having it tweaked by a cousins trans shop in Bakersfield with shift kit and 3500 stall converter it worked great. Until I bought this car I didn’t realize Ford had so many different transmissions.

 
Where am I at with it? It’s sitting in my drive way untouched. I don’t intend on driving it again until the rebuilding and restoring is done. I’ve purchased a few interior and exterior parts from Don @ OMS and still waiting for more. I do intend on pulling the engine and trans and completely cleaning up the engine bay as well as repaint and complete new interior. My son is 35 now and I’m 64 so if I live to be 90 he better be mature enough to handle the HP responsibly in an older car when finally gets it. I fully understand the MPH = $PH principle in the 80’s I had raced water ¼ mile with a built 460 in an old Hondo hull. My brother in law was the mechanic so we saved a bit there, but it I’ve learned and to quote my father, “if it Fly’s. #@&% or floats you should probably rent it”. I do want to keep the costs down on the engine build but I also want to end up with a mean green machine with about 400 HP and street drivable. I’ll do what I can with updating brakes and handling but as I remember, my old 73 Mach 1 handled pretty well and I’m still breathing.

 
Looks like you have a great car to start with!

JimNiki has some really good advice regarding the transmission. By far, the best upgrade I did was to put in wide ratio AOD (overdrive transmission) coupled with a 3.89 trac-lock rear end. I have a '73 351c 2V, so even with a beter intake manifold and carb, I'm probably right around 200HP. So with teh agressive first gear, I can smoke the tires from a dead stop, and even get a chirp when it shifts into second... but the best part is being able to keep RPMs below 3,000 at freeway speeds thanks to teh overdrive.

If I had it all to do over again, I would have put in a 4R70W transmission, rather than put teh gears from 4R70W inside the AOD like I did.

The 4R70W is electronically controlled, but there are aftermarket controllers you can use. This allows you to computerize shift points.

Good luck with your project!!!

 
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Welcome Mike, from West Texas! ::welcome::

Nice to see another H-Code guy with... wait... what's that I see? Dual exhaust cut-out valance? On an H-Code? Oh my. (Sorry... it's something that's become a joke that I won't let die rofl )

I went a little crazy with my 351C-2V, since it was seized when I got the car. After the machine work (CNC-bored, blueprinted, balanced) I also had the shop install hardened valve seats and do a 3-angle valve job with some mild port & polish, along with some 9.5:1 flat-tops. I also went 'roller everything' with lots of goodies from CompCams, Edelbrock for the intake, carb, and valve covers, and finished up with Hooker ceramic-coated Competition long-tube headers into a Pypes 2.5" stainless X-pipe exhaust. According to the CamQuest utility by CompCams, I should expect about 400hp (at the crank). I decided to stay small with a Duraspark conversion for the ignition, because I'll be putting the Ram Air back on, and the bigger HEI-style distributors (MSD, DUI, etc.) don't fit under the air cleaner without some modification.

Anyway, I've got a laundry list of engine goodies that are working for me that I'd be happy to share.

Good luck with the project and keep us posted - we like pictures, too. ;) :D

 
I take it the H codes didn't come with duel exhaust. I didn't know. I had thought mine was completely stock. Please PM or EM me that laundry list. This is my first total restore project & I really don't want to use trial and error.

 
I take it the H codes didn't come with duel exhaust. I didn't know. I had thought mine was completely stock. Please PM or EM me that laundry list. This is my first total restore project & I really don't want to use trial and error.
H Codes came stock with a single exhaust that had a turn down right before the rear valence so no cut outs. You'd only get the dual exhaust and cut outs with the 351 4V.

 
I take it the H codes didn't come with duel exhaust. I didn't know. I had thought mine was completely stock. Please PM or EM me that laundry list. This is my first total restore project & I really don't want to use trial and error.
The have been a few disagreements in the past as to what was and was not rolled out of the factory and/or what was and was not available depending, on the model. My H-code car came to me with a dual exhaust cut-out valance and I've been told in no uncertain terms that it was not original. Not knowing the past of my car myself, but knowing the redneck repairs that I've noted since having it, I highly doubt that the previous owners would've purchased a cut-out exhaust valance - they used a torch to 'drill' the holes in the angle-iron-and-chain bracket they made to hold the gas tank in, for Pete sake. :p

Anyway - my theory on the whole thing is that, "Mistakes were made, special order parts were ordered, and based on things seen 'in the wild,' rules were definitely broken."

Here's the link to my COTM thread: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-november-2012-cotm-1971-mach-1-in-west-texas-frankenstang

I thought it had the engine specs, but I guess not. Check my 'Garage' for a run-down, and I'll send you part numbers for all those things - should be able to help you make a decision. Of course, there are other ways to do it (other parts combinations, etc.), so make sure to look around for the parts that will best fit into your plans & budget.

 
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