pulling engine

Well still have coolant thumping behind waterpump after hot soak shut down. Temp not overheating but spits out coolant. Also FMX trans not engaging. How hard is it to pull engine and trans together, and any special tricks.

Alan L

Removing both at the same time is difficult but not impossible. I would pull them individually since they are going to have to come apart anyway.

As always remove the battery and drain all fluids possible.

I like to drill a 1/8 hole through the hood hinge, into the hood front and back to be able to easily maintain my hood alignment. Use sonme moving blankets and set the hood on the roof-use at least 2-3 blankets and make sure the roof is well protected.

Radiator must be pulled-if the car has AC protect the condenser with a piece of plywood on the engine compartment side. Don't forget your transmission coolant lines-remove them at both ends to avoid damaging them.

Remove the shock tower supports

Remove the front bumper to allow you room to get your engine hoist in close enough.

work on a clean and level surface.

Be prepared to jack the rear of the car up as high as your jack stands will go if you intend to pull both as a unit. Remove the transmission cross member and put the bolts back in place to keep track of them. Plug the transmission tailshaft or you'll have a mess. I would drop the drive shaft first rather than pulling it as you pull the engine transmission assembly. A block of wood under the transmission will keep the tailshaft from banging into the ground during the pull.

Remove alternator, but not wiring. Tie it to the passenger side shock tower. Do the same with the AC and power steering on the opposite side Pull the exhaust manifolds from the head pipes, or headers from the collectors, but there is room to leave either attached when pulling the engine. Though installation with both headers attached is difficult.

Remove the fan before trying to pull and also the carb. Ford wiring is pretty easy to work with though the temperature sender and oil pressure sender have identical ends. Harness position distingushes them clearly but a label on each is a good safety measure. Remove the sections of the harness that will be in the way. all the plugs are distinct and easy to identify but if you are afraid of stuff like that again, some masking tape labels makes it easy.

If you have lift hooks attached use them, if not a carb plate works well and is about 20 bucks I've done it both ways and have used a leveler as well. The leveler takes too much height to allow my lift to clear the radiator support. When you finally are ready to pull and you remove the cross bolt from each motor mount, lift the engine slowly and look at the angle. Be ready to lower it back down and readjust as necessary.

Off the top of my head that's about as good as I can remember.

I have pulled mine many many times with the trans. Even when I don't need to pull the trans I pull it anyhow so I don't have to lay under there trying to get to all the bolts on bellhousing and converter and starter. you can leave all that on and unbolt it out of the car. I even pull mine with the headers on. I like to use a carb plate to pull it because it has a nice pivot point on a hook. Make sure you plug the tailshaft like jeff said or you will be swimming in trans fluid!! I have done mine by myself a lot of times but its always easier to have a helping hand. Good luck!

Lift plate and load leveler make it easier. I have done it several times by myself with the original cleveland and the current 460 with the FMX attached. I take the front wheels off and lower the front of the car as much as possible.

I have removed and installed motor and trans several time with no problems. Just seems easier to deal with the motor and trans on the ground then in the car.

Not2old, is it worth working through your engine/tranny issues or you want to pull anyway?

Pulling the engine and tranny together would probably be easier and quicker.

You're going to need the crane for the engine anyway, may as well do both and save your back.

I would not advise using factory lift hooks. Anytime I've tried that I ended up cracking the cast iron exhaust manifolds. I suspect over time the years of heating /cooling cycles makes them too brittle to handle the stress of the weight of the engine.

I would not advise using factory lift hooks. Anytime I've tried that I ended up cracking the cast iron exhaust manifolds. I suspect over time the years of heating /cooling cycles makes them too brittle to handles the stress of the weight of the engine.

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I've always had headers, so this is information I did not know. Great point!

Pulling mine this week, thanks for the info!

Easy.

Decided to just pull engine heads, but still drop trans from bottom. Garage is too tight for engine hoist to pull both.

Alan L

You should definately pull the heads. You might have put the head gasket in backwards.

How are you guys bolting the engine to the stand? Does anyone know the bolt size they used? I'd like to buy them in advance.

Can't remember the size but make sure the bolts are hardened steel... No the normal hardware store bolts....

Can't remember the size but make sure the bolts are hardened steel... No the normal hardware store bolts....

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I looked online and found the thread size should be 7/16-14 (UNC) but I am unsure of the length. My engine stand will take up 2" of bolt, I would imagine would want 1/2" minimum engagement and the flange on the engine looks to be ~3/4-1" thick, Which would be about a 3" long bolt. I will get a few bolts in that range, as you said grade 8 bolts (zinc dichromate heavy duty bolts) and report back with the right size.

I ended up using 4x 7/16-14 UNC x 3" grade 8 bolts and washers. To attach the engine to the harbor freight 1000lb stand I bought, I had to attach the top 2 swinging pieces as straight through spacers in order for them to line up.

If you use the bottom bell bolts, you can use the top arms normally.