Removing both at the same time is difficult but not impossible. I would pull them individually since they are going to have to come apart anyway.
As always remove the battery and drain all fluids possible.
I like to drill a 1/8 hole through the hood hinge, into the hood front and back to be able to easily maintain my hood alignment. Use sonme moving blankets and set the hood on the roof-use at least 2-3 blankets and make sure the roof is well protected.
Radiator must be pulled-if the car has AC protect the condenser with a piece of plywood on the engine compartment side. Don't forget your transmission coolant lines-remove them at both ends to avoid damaging them.
Remove the shock tower supports
Remove the front bumper to allow you room to get your engine hoist in close enough.
work on a clean and level surface.
Be prepared to jack the rear of the car up as high as your jack stands will go if you intend to pull both as a unit. Remove the transmission cross member and put the bolts back in place to keep track of them. Plug the transmission tailshaft or you'll have a mess. I would drop the drive shaft first rather than pulling it as you pull the engine transmission assembly. A block of wood under the transmission will keep the tailshaft from banging into the ground during the pull.
Remove alternator, but not wiring. Tie it to the passenger side shock tower. Do the same with the AC and power steering on the opposite side Pull the exhaust manifolds from the head pipes, or headers from the collectors, but there is room to leave either attached when pulling the engine. Though installation with both headers attached is difficult.
Remove the fan before trying to pull and also the carb. Ford wiring is pretty easy to work with though the temperature sender and oil pressure sender have identical ends. Harness position distingushes them clearly but a label on each is a good safety measure. Remove the sections of the harness that will be in the way. all the plugs are distinct and easy to identify but if you are afraid of stuff like that again, some masking tape labels makes it easy.
If you have lift hooks attached use them, if not a carb plate works well and is about 20 bucks I've done it both ways and have used a leveler as well. The leveler takes too much height to allow my lift to clear the radiator support. When you finally are ready to pull and you remove the cross bolt from each motor mount, lift the engine slowly and look at the angle. Be ready to lower it back down and readjust as necessary.
Off the top of my head that's about as good as I can remember.