Oil pan gaskets and/or silicone

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Dallas

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My Car
1971 Convertible Mustang 351 C 2V H Code automatic transmission
I'm changing the oil pan haskets of my 1971 Mustang 351 Cleveland and I'd like to know in your opinon which are the best gaskets or the most appropriate. I've been told cork, than rubber then just silicone or even no gaskets at all

What do you think

Dallas

 
Probably the best choice is a Fel-Pro Felcoid/Plus Oil Pan Gasket

It is made with a fiber sheet core and a latex rubber coating. The latex aids in the sealing potential leakage paths. The core material resists crushing and splitting, while providing excellent blowout resistance.

About 17 dollars US work well-you just need gasket sealer to lightly attach to the pan and to seal the front and rear rubber pieces in the corners. Use sparingly.

Cork works fine as do the rubberized versions.

Just "silicone" or RTV or gasket sealer will not seal well when you tighten the pan down, it will get mashed out to thin in spots.

No gaskets will not work with this engine design-maybe on something out there-but it sure isn't a ford v-8 with a sheetmetal oil pan!

 
i really like the milodon crush proof gaskets for the 351c. much better then the cork fel pros. about 20.00 on summit racing. i used them on mine, and it has never leaked. i used a little bit of the "right stuff", not a lot! on the block side. also I have studs instead of bolts which help out a lot and i would really recommend.

 
Thanks a lot to all of you

Best

Dallas

 
If I would like to do by myself the gasket using cork, do you think that it would be possible ?

Here in Italy it's impossible to find gaskets for my Stang oil pan and if I have to order in the US I should pay 90 USD just for the shipping so I was thinking to the possbility to do them by myself

What do you think ?

Crazy idea ?

i really like the milodon crush proof gaskets for the 351c. much better then the cork fel pros. about 20.00 on summit racing. i used them on mine, and it has never leaked. i used a little bit of the "right stuff", not a lot! on the block side. also I have studs instead of bolts which help out a lot and i would really recommend.
Click to expand...
 
Unfortunately, I would tend to say no. When replacing an oil pan gasket there is a rubber end piece at the front and rear. If you have the old ones from your pan, you will see what I am talking about. These are normally replaced and are included as part of an oil pan gasket set. While you could try and clean the end pieces up and reuse them, I think you'll at least get minor leaks-then again minor leaks may be acceptable for the time being.

 
Yes you are right I've just relized what you are talking about

I will order in the US the 4 pieces set and the silicone too

Could you please tell me a suitable silicone to use ?

Do I have to apply on both oil pan and engine block or just on the oil pan then put the gaskets ( I mean the silicon layer under the gaskets than install the oil an ) ?

Thanx

Dallas

Unfortunately, I would tend to say no. When replacing an oil pan gasket there is a rubber end piece at the front and rear. If you have the old ones from your pan, you will see what I am talking about. These are normally replaced and are included as part of an oil pan gasket set. While you could try and clean the end pieces up and reuse them, I think you'll at least get minor leaks-then again minor leaks may be acceptable for the time being.
Click to expand...
 
Permatex® Ultra Black® Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker - See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail#sthash.oX1dxA29.dpuf

as to usage I barely use any at all, just a thin line on the pan side of the gasket, both sides of the rubber seals and a moderate amount at the corners of the rubber seals where they meet the cork gaskets.

Other people use more and some use less-I am by no means an expert on this subject.

Here is what permatex says

DIRECTIONS: 1. For best results, clean and dry all surfaces with a residue-free solvent, such as Permatex® Brake & Parts Cleaner. 2. Cut nozzle to desired bead size – gaskets are best formed using a 1/16? to 1/4? bead. 3. Apply a continuous and even bead of silicone to one surface, surrounding all bolt holes. Remove excess with knife at once. Assemble parts immediately. Do not squeeze out silicone by overtightening bolts. Re-torque will not be necessary. 4. Silicone dries in 1 hour, and fully cures in 24 hours, at 70?F - 50% relative humidity. Allow more time in cold weather. 5. Replace cap after use. Clean hands with dry cloth or Permatex® Fast Orange® Hand Cleaner. Clean tools with non-flammable cleaning fluid. NOTE: Not recommended for use on head gaskets or parts in contact with gasoline.

- See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail#sthash.oX1dxA29.GCroNUz1.dpuf

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks a lot

Permatex® Ultra Black® Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker - See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail#sthash.oX1dxA29.dpuf

as to usage I barely use any at all, just a thin line on the pan side of the gasket, both sides of the rubber seals and a moderate amount at the corners of the rubber seals where they meet the cork gaskets.

Other people use more and some use less-I am by no means an expert on this subject.

Here is what permatex says

DIRECTIONS: 1. For best results, clean and dry all surfaces with a residue-free solvent, such as Permatex® Brake & Parts Cleaner. 2. Cut nozzle to desired bead size – gaskets are best formed using a 1/16? to 1/4? bead. 3. Apply a continuous and even bead of silicone to one surface, surrounding all bolt holes. Remove excess with knife at once. Assemble parts immediately. Do not squeeze out silicone by overtightening bolts. Re-torque will not be necessary. 4. Silicone dries in 1 hour, and fully cures in 24 hours, at 70?F - 50% relative humidity. Allow more time in cold weather. 5. Replace cap after use. Clean hands with dry cloth or Permatex® Fast Orange® Hand Cleaner. Clean tools with non-flammable cleaning fluid. NOTE: Not recommended for use on head gaskets or parts in contact with gasoline.

- See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail#sthash.oX1dxA29.GCroNUz1.dpuf
Click to expand...
 

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