VIDEO--INSTALL OF SOT COILOVER CONVER.

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scott,

i'm so jealous right now man. i'm still waiting for his brackets to come in. i had to get his brackets for a OEM disc spindle though. are you going to use OEM cobra brake lines as well and fab up hardlines to go into them? i went with Shaun's stainless steel 5 pcs set that wil do everything and did his emergency cable kit as well.

i can't wait to my stuff now after i'm healed. i'm going to redo the suspension however after i do the interior. i did the front suspension 10 years ago with mustang plus's heavier duty stock suspension kit. i need interior more than suspension but i can't wait to get that installed though.

keep up the awesome work man!

 
thanks!

There aren't many complete kits for these cars. I was thinking about going with the Fatman Fabrications strut conversion kit, which uses a rack and pinion setup.

http://www.fatmanfab.com/fordbrakeupgrade34.php
I was going to go the same route thankfully I didn't I spent months researching all the kits out there..By far I'm glad I bought the sot setup..Here's why I didn't go the fatman route heres a cut paste from a guy who bought their kit

"Well, the last few days have been filled with incompetence. Unfortunately this incompetence has been in the hands of others. Where to start?

Lets start with FatMan Fabrications:

1: They very clearly state that you can use a manual or power rack and pinion with their Strut IFS kit. I wanted to stick with manual so I spent some time tracking one down and shipped it up from the south. Well, none of the adapters that came with the kit fit and the mounting is completely different. So, a quick call to FatMan confirms this. WTF?

2: FatMan also very clearly states that a 7″ wheel with a 5″ backspace is recommended with the kit. I have an 8″ wheel with a 5.5″ backspace. At worst I should just have to space it out 0.5″ for clearance. Nope, the outer lip of the wheel is about 3.5″ inside the fenderwell. Looks aweful and would drive worse…. Guess I’m buying new wheels as I cant space them out that much.

3: FatMan again…. the details that you get prior to delivery of the kit states that any Fox body Mustang strut will work. Well, once I finally get the craptastic instructions I see that you have to cut off the excess threads from the top of the strut for hood clearence. Not the best idea on my adjustable struts that have an adjuster on inside said threads.

Front Suspension Continued….

* March 9, 2010 5:09 am

*

Well, after lighting $200 on fire listening to the FatMan guys and buying a manual rack, I decided I better head to the PicknPull and grab myself the power rack. $40 and 2 hours later I had a like new looking rack.

Well, the kit from FatMan has a die to rethread the tie rods to length. I’m not too sure who they intend to buy this kit but you need to turn the tie rods down from 0.520″ to 0.468″ in order to actually thread them. No problem for me as I have a lathe but what about the average Joe? I guess they call it a bolt in kit ‘cuz the kit has bolts in it….

Well, then i go to install it and it comes in contact with an additional crossmember that’s been added to the car so I have to remove that. And it looks like FatMan may have fucked up and sent me one wrong spacer for the rack mounts. Suprising….

Well, regardless of all of this I need to continue trying to make progress and confirm that the rest of this stuff I’m bolting on works. One of the nice things about the FatMan kit is that in retains the stock sway bar. I ordered one up a while back. I went with the 1 1/8″ bar for better performance. Guess what? Yup, doesn’t fit. Contacts the frame rails….

F me in the A, what next…."

 
wow that sucks for that guy. I know this car has the fatman kit on it.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-71-finally-painted?highlight=boss+521

but I already can see that the SOT system is more than likely the better of the two.

Total Control Products also sells a similar system to SOT's.
I've seen that car VERY NICE work..Those guy's have the resourses & equipment to make anything work..for the diy home builder it's gotta fit together like butter...With no issues...I'm not going to be the guina pigrofl

 
Awesome vid and setup! Your posts and site is extremely informative and a great resource. Looking forward to more vids and posts. Keep up the great work. :udaman:

Rich

 
Hey Scott!! i just manage to see the whole video (3rd world internet problems) and as always, not only the sharpness of the videos are super informative but your methods are the way to go, to build a great car like yours...

Besides all that, the choosing you make, the technology you decide to use on your car always sounds the right way to go, so i congratulate for that too... It just shows your knowledge doesn´t stop in the "how to do" but beyond that, letting us to know why do you decide to go the way you go...

I have a question too :)... Why didn´t you finish the engine bay instalation of parts, including fenders, hood and stuff to fit?... Can that be done without the engine and front suspension??

Thanks Scott and as always, glad to see your process!!

 
Hey Scott!! i just manage to see the whole video (3rd world internet problems) and as always, not only the sharpness of the videos are super informative but your methods are the way to go, to build a great car like yours...

Besides all that, the choosing you make, the technology you decide to use on your car always sounds the right way to go, so i congratulate for that too... It just shows your knowledge doesn´t stop in the "how to do" but beyond that, letting us to know why do you decide to go the way you go...

I have a question too :)... Why didn´t you finish the engine bay instalation of parts, including fenders, hood and stuff to fit?... Can that be done without the engine and front suspension??

Thanks Scott and as always, glad to see your process!!
Thanks D ! The reason I didn't finish the engine bay & frt sheet metal is that it is better to have the car sitting on the susp to install "line up" the frt fenders hood doors..I also wanted the fenders on to line up install the frt aprons & rad support.. If all goes right I'll have the car on it's wheels sometime next week. After we fit everything..Then everything has to come off again..Then it's going on a rotessire to detail & paint the underside..

 
Hey Scott!! i just manage to see the whole video (3rd world internet problems) and as always, not only the sharpness of the videos are super informative but your methods are the way to go, to build a great car like yours...

Besides all that, the choosing you make, the technology you decide to use on your car always sounds the right way to go, so i congratulate for that too... It just shows your knowledge doesn´t stop in the "how to do" but beyond that, letting us to know why do you decide to go the way you go...

I have a question too :)... Why didn´t you finish the engine bay instalation of parts, including fenders, hood and stuff to fit?... Can that be done without the engine and front suspension??

Thanks Scott and as always, glad to see your process!!
Thanks D ! The reason I didn't finish the engine bay & frt sheet metal is that it is better to have the car sitting on the susp to install "line up" the frt fenders hood doors..I also wanted the fenders on to line up install the frt aprons & rad support.. If all goes right I'll have the car on it's wheels sometime next week. After we fit everything..Then everything has to come off again..Then it's going on a rotessire to detail & paint the underside..

Great tip then Scott!... I always assumed that a perfect line up after a big engine compartment and all sheet metal work was with the engine on, but didn´t realize front suspension is important too...

I saw you post where you publish a picture of your car in June 2010... the work you did is great Scott... not only in quality but in speed... Way to go man!!

 
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