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i want to change out my insturment cluster lights to led i have a standard set up no tack or clock. does someone that has done this remember how many led you would need to do this. i want to order them before i remove the cluster .thanks for any help

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Here is a picture of my 73 non-tach cluster. The empty bulb hole is for the hard wired Alternator bulb.

 

SepOct2007087_zps574ad84b.jpg

 

SepOct2007088_zps6991ab3e.jpg

Mike AKA Ole Pony & Rare Pony
Our current Mustang garage/driveway
1973 Mustang Convert - Bought in 1974 - Still have it!
2004 Mach 1 Oxford White Auto, Bought Sept 06

20180127_082009.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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i want to change out my insturment cluster lights to led i have a standard set up no tack or clock. does someone that has done this remember how many led you would need to do this. i want to order them before i remove the cluster .thanks for any help

 

Nailpounder... You can order a set from hipoparts at three different intensity levels.

 

http://www.hipoparts.com/1965-73-ford-mustang-led-gauge-light-conversion-kit/

 

Check out their site, lots of good info even if you don't buy there.

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just finished to change bulbs by led ones.

Leds was a little too big, I had to "do" something to let them fit inside.

Happy about the results.

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What's this piece for?

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Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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That regulates the voltage to 5 volts for the fuel gauge and center guages if you have them.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

or you can just look it up on ebay... thats what i did and saved a lot of money.. and they work just fine lol thank god for china/ebay.

1972 Mach1 H-code 351C - 2V - bought 10/5/2010 still a headeache

1972 Grande coupe Inline 6 1bbl - dad bought in 90's Sold

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

You can order them that are exact replacements for the regualr style bulbs.

 

I got mine from:

 

http://www.superbrightleds.com/contact_us.php

 

Not that these are either on all the way bright or not on no dimming works. Also problme I have found is that the light bulb sockets disintegrate over time and often wont go back in properly afterthey are taken out. I also discovered that the replacement sockets abailabel from places like Auto Zone will not work they are slightly different. Guessing they work fine on new cars but they hold the light bulbs for ours and go into the holes but do not make contact,

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  • 5 months later...

I bought some LED's on Ebay and I can't get them to work either direction they are installed. Any thoughts on what could be wrong?

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.

 

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I had LEDs in my 72 but didn't like that I lost the dimmer functionality. I stuck with stock bulbs on my 70 Mustang and 69 Torino but I took out the thick blue plastic diffusers and just put the thin blue rubber covers over the bulbs. I also added these covers on my aftermarket gauges so it all matches. It all ended up much brighter and when combined with wiring your headlights on a separate relay it's 10X better than stock but still allows you to dim your lights.

-Former 70 & 72 Mustang Owner.

-69 Torino GT, Formal Roof, 351W, Edelbrock 600 cfm, Edelbrock 351W Performer RPM intake, headers, AOD trans, dual flowmasters w/H pipe, Pertronix II Billet, 3.5 TRACLOC g/r, 15" Magnum 500s, 100A alt, aluminum radiator, electric fan, Pro-car seats, mini-starter...owned since Dec 13.

-70 Mach 1, 351W, Edelbrock E-Street EFI, VHX instrument cluster, Hooker headers, dual flowmasters, Pertronix II, 15" Magnum 500s, 150A alt, aluminum radiator, dual electric fans, Pro-car seats, mini-starter

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I put the Superbrights in my car today and they still wont light but stock bulbs work. I have no clue what is next other than changing the light switch. No light at all but lights fine with 7605 or whatever they are. At least I am competent at taking the dash out fast. Takes about 15 minutes to get it all off now that I have the right tools in my bag.

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Here is a picture of my 73 non-tach cluster. The empty bulb hole is for the hard wired Alternator bulb.

 

SepOct2007087_zps574ad84b.jpg

 

SepOct2007088_zps6991ab3e.jpg

Question: My alternator light has never worked, it doesn't even come on momentarily while starting like the rest of the idiot lights.

Is the alternator warning bulb just twisted into the cluster and get it's power from the printed circuit board, or is there a separate socket and wiring for that bulb?

I replaced the instrument lens and a few of the sockets and also intend on going LED at some point myself. The PO was a butcher as far as wiring, that is why I am asking. I have several unused sockets and plugs behind the dash, but everything else works, also I have no radio installed yet.

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Here is a picture of my 73 non-tach cluster. The empty bulb hole is for the hard wired Alternator bulb.

 

SepOct2007087_zps574ad84b.jpg

 

SepOct2007088_zps6991ab3e.jpg

Question: My alternator light has never worked, it doesn't even come on momentarily while starting like the rest of the idiot lights.

Is the alternator warning bulb just twisted into the cluster and get it's power from the printed circuit board, or is there a separate socket and wiring for that bulb?

I replaced the instrument lens and a few of the sockets and also intend on going LED at some point myself. The PO was a butcher as far as wiring, that is why I am asking. I have several unused sockets and plugs behind the dash, but everything else works, also I have no radio installed yet.

 

The alternator light has its own socket and wires that are completely independant of the guage cluster lighting. It is probably hanging out back in there on the left somewhere.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Guest Kit Sullivan

LEDs are polarity-sensitive. If you have them in the sockets reversed, they wont light. If your car will light regular bulbs, it will light LEDs...they draw significantly less power than OEM style bulbs.

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