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The Rickster - a 73 Mach 1 work in progress


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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Ron, took a read through your build thread, some great reference material here for my build - thank you!

I may have missed it, but whose 'dark charcoal metallic' did you use for the dash, it turned out great.

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Thanks, Cowman.  I used the dark charcoal metallic from NPD, National Parts Depot.  Part number is VP-4464.

Ron

The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, being restored as a tribute to my brother who passed away with COVID in July 2020.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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That is one color Ford kept from 1964 1/2 - 1973 the only black color they used on interior all those years. You are keeping it going for sure always great to see an owner do their work. Any pics from your painter?

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Tuesday afternoon I got my care package from Don at Ohio Mustang.  It had the instrument cluster bezel, center bezel, glove box bezel as well as the new instrument cluster lens and some other parts.  Wednesday morning I had a little surgery on my right hand, and being right handed I've been a bit hobbled, but I'm still getting things done.  I got the instrument cluster housing cleaned up and painted with satin white and silver on the inside of the gauge housings.  

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I got the speedometer and fuel gauge mounted, and went ahead and put in the lens and laid the new bezel over it,  It looks so much better.  

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The idiot lights were sent out to Rocketman for the tach conversion.  It came back today, so I'll get it installed tomorrow.  I also took the AC vents apart, cleaned them and hit them with some paint (adhesion promoter and SEM Trim black), and they now look like new.  

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I purchased the center bezel with the gauge pod.  I purchased VDO gauges which are round and kind of a fit, but not really.  I got out the Dremel and opened up the sides just a little so that the gauges slip in from the front and the screw ring secures them from the front.  I think they came out pretty good, but if I had to do it over again, I would make a bracket and secure them from the back and not Dremel out the openings.

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I still need to do a tiny bit of touch, but overall, I'm happy with how it turned out. 

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I've got dual sensor oil pressure and water temp sending units on order so I can have both the warning lights and gauges operational without trying to find a second port or adding a Tee and worry about interference with other stuff nearby.  I'm hoping that it works as slick as it sounds like it should.  

I did talk to the paint shop on Thursday.  They haven't started yet.  I'm pretty disappointed, but trying to be patient.  Well, until Monday, anyway.   Sooo, that is the update for this week.  More to come, soon.    

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Ron

The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, being restored as a tribute to my brother who passed away with COVID in July 2020.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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  • 2 months later...
5 hours ago, 73MustangCoupe said:

Well, it's been close to 3 months since I've posted an update, but that doesn't mean I haven't been doing anything.  I've gotten the instrument cluster back together with LED bulbs installed.  I got the steering column painted and reassembled, but the turn signal switch is binding, so I'll have to go back through it, one more time.  I got the front and rear seats reupholstered with new foam and seat covers from TMI.  

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Most of the wrinkles seen in the picture were worked out, and overall, the seats look pretty good.

I also cut open the top of the new fuel tank and installed the new Tanks, Inc. electric fuel pump.  I pretty much did what Autoedit did in the YouTube video, except I used a body saw instead of a hole saw, and oriented the fuel reservoir away from the sending unit to keep it from interfering, but otherwise did pretty much the same.

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A little work with the hammer and dolly got the lip flattened out and lining up with the sealing ring pretty well.  Once the steel retaining ring is placed on the inside edge of the hole and the screws tightened down, it straightens the edge up even better.

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The retaining ring is installed and the screws inserted to secure it.  The Viton washers were removed so that they would not get damaged when the retaining ring was tacked into the opening.

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After tack welding between each of the screw hole locations, the welds were ground down to make the top flush.  

Then the tank was cleaned with WD-40 and a magnet, plus wiping it out with some paper towels, and then more WD-40.  It was a new tank, but I had gotten from a guy on Facebook marketplace, and there was a little but of crud inside it.  It wasn't rust, but I'm not sure what it was.  It took a little bit, but I was able to get the tank cleaned out really well.  

Then, it was time for the gasket sealer, top, and all those screws.

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Overall, the tank came out really well, and I'm pleased with it.

Also, I've kept busy, building a motor for the Rickster.  With all the Covid stuff going on, it took a while to get the cylinder heads shipped, but I finally got everything I needed.  I had to hit up Don at Ohio Mustang Supply a few times for brackets, etc. since some were missing.  I got the Power steering pump and brackets from him.  It's a 50 year old pump of unknown history, so I went ahead and rebuilt it.  Twice.  When they say try not to let the spider come apart, there is a reason for that.  My first attempt at reassembly, I got it wrong, and after reinstalling the pump discovered it wouldn't turn very easily.  I pulled it all apart, went back through it, and found I had the slippers upside down.  DOH!!!  After the second or third time putting the spider together, I did develop a feel for it, and it's not difficult, but the first time or two, it can be pretty frustrating.  Once reassembled, I double checked and it turned easily, and after installation on the motor, it only required 4 in-lbs of force to turn the pulley, well, within the factory spec of 2-15 in-lbs.  

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Tomorrow, I'll post about the engine build but that's enough for now.  Except to say, that the paint shop says the Rickster is very close to done, and should be back in my garage in the next week or so.  WooHoo!!!  Then the real fun begins - reassembly.

 

Wow, some big steps forward - looks great! I am looking forward to your progress :thumb:

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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I had taken the engine to the machine shop back in early December.  They had said it would take about 2 weeks, which turned into closer to 6 weeks.  The owner, I found out, was winding down, moving into retirement, and the shop seemed a bit disorganized, but they had gotten decent reviews.  Once I got the motor home, I got it on the engine stand, sprayed it with a generous coating of WD-40, and bagged it.  Every couple weeks, I would pull the bag off, spray it with more WD-40, and recover it.

After the Rickster went off to paint, it was time to get to work on the motor.  I cleaned it, checked it, and then cleaned it again.  I checked the crankshaft main bearing clearances with plastigage and all were in spec.  I checked the rod bearing clearances with plastigage, as well, and all were right on the money.  Great!!!

Pistons and rings were installed and everything seemed normal enough.  Cam installation was straightforward.  I installed a Lunati roller cam and lifters.  I got the head gaskets and Trickflow cylinder heads bolted on and torqued.  The intake manifold was next and that is where things started going sideways.  

The intake bolts on the Cleveland, of course, are angled, and the intake must be matched to the head quite precisely.  I was having no luck getting them to line up.  I determined that the manifold was sitting to high.  The block had been decked, but only enough to square it.  The machinist couldn't remember exactly how much he had taken off, which I found a little concering.  Hmmm.   I took the intake manifold to the shop, and they informed me that the Edelbrock Performer 2V intake manifold had been previously milled.  We decided that they should take .020 to .030 off each side and see where it sat.  In the end, they took off .027 off each side, which was needed to true up one side that was out of square.  

Great.  The intake manifold now sits where it need so the gaskets will seal it properly.  Before buttoning it all up, though, I measured for new pushrods, which turned out to be 8.100.  Got them ordered figuring it would take the normal 2 days to get here.  Eight days later, they arrived, having traveled across much of the USA.  Pushrods installed, roller rockers installed and lash set, and finally, the valve cover gaskets can go on.  But wait, the rollers are keeping the stock valve covers that I had thoroughly cleaned, removed dents, and painted.  The right side actually fit, but the driver side was definitely interfering.  New valve covers were ordered and arrived a few days later.  I got them intalled, and they fit fine, but seem kind of tall. 

I am going to use the FAST EZ EFI system, because I have it from an older project that stalled out a few years back.  I put the throttle body on the intake and set the ram air cleaner box on it, only to find that it fouled on the valve covers.  Soooo, I ordered a 1/2" spacer and now have a maybe 1/4" clearance.  

With all that sorted, I got the distributor which had a busted vacuum advance nipple, so I got a new vacuum advance for it,  I got the tiny clip removed and then the first screw.  Both screws were rusty, but the first one came out okay, taking my time and using penetrating oil and heat.  The second screw decided to just wring off about halfway down the hole.  I tried to drill it out, but the drill bit broke off, so I have been fighting the thing fixed for 6 or 7 weeks now.  I took it to a local machine shop, but they were too backed up to help me out.  They did tell me, though, that the machine shop had done the machine work on the block had had a lot of problems with quality control lately, and had ruined a few blocks and cylinder heads. 

I felt okay about the crank and rod bearing clearances, but hadn't checked the bores.  Soooo, off comes the intake, valve cover, rockers and pushrods, cylinder heads, etc.  I got out the dial bore gauge and micrometer, and measured each bore at the bottom, just above the piston, middle of the run and at the top of the bore, front to back, and side to side.  Six measurements on each cylinder.  Each cylinder was pretty uniform, with the 48 measurements ranging from 4.03035 to 4.03102.   Most of the cylinders were within about .00030 to .00040, although some of that can be just variation inherent in measuring the diameter of a cylinder.  I am satisfied, though, that they didn't screw it up, so I got new intake manifold gaskets, and got the motor put back together, once again. 

Back to the distributor, I finally found a machine shop that said they might be about to repair it, so I'm hoping that in the next few days, I'll get good news from them.  Then I can get the distributor rebuilt, and installed.  I did look into a new Pertronix billet distributor, but it didn't fit under the air box.  I just found that they do make shorter Pertronix distributors, but at this point, I'm waiting for the machine shop. 

So that is my engine building saga.  Thanks to Don at Ohio Mustang for helping me out with AC and power steering brackets.  It's coming together, slowly, but surely.  Hopefully, the Rickster will be back soon, and we can get that motor filling the engine bay.  

 

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Ron

The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, being restored as a tribute to my brother who passed away with COVID in July 2020.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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  • 2 weeks later...

WOW, sounds like the engine was a pain for sure.
On the broken drill bit in the hole. If you find a mold shop that has and EDM, Electrical Discharge Machine, they can burn the broken drill and bolt out for sure. Not cheap but does not matter if hard or not will burn it out. They actually tossed a working EDM where I worked and I did not know. I just happened to see it sitting outside but it had rained on it and rusty and the electrical was probably shot. It was working I had shown a couple workers how to use it to get broken taps out in past.
I had been wondering why no body shop pics and progress there?

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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  • 1 month later...

The Rickster is back from the paint shop!!! 

And it is soooo disappointing.

After 5 months, the Rickster is finally home.  I was so excited to get it back, after being delayed  by more than 3 months beyond what was initially promised.  And from a distance, it looks nice, albeit a good bit darker than what I expected. 

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It's more of a Dark Gunmetal Green than the Dark Green Metallic, but it's okay.  I'm not crazy about it, but it is a neat color.  Alas, there were so many other problems, that it is going to have to be redone.  It won't have to be stripped, but it will need to be sanded, some dings filled (why the paint shop didn't address them, I will never understand), sealed, and then repainted.  Apparently, the shop owner who was supposed to be doing the work, turned it over to an employee who did a really crap job.     

Runs and sags in the clearcoat.   

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Not filling irregularities in the sheet steel.

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Burning through the clear and paint on the edges in a couple places.

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Along the upper edges of the front fenders, where they bolt to the frame, they left unpainted, with only some overspray and no clear.  And small amounts of rust along the edge?  WTF?!!

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And to cap the stack, along the lower doors and the lower rockers and quarters, the paint is much lighter in color and the clear is, well, not very clear.

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To answer the question everyone is dying to ask, No, I  didn't pay him the final amount, and will take steps to recover the initial payment.  

I have been talking to another shop who said they can fix it for me for a reasonable fee, with no payment due until the job is done.  

In the meantime, with the Rickster home, I've been able to get the brakes installed on all four corners, brake lines run, and later today, will shoot some epoxy to finish covering the passenger compartment floor.  So, progress is being made, despite the paint shit, er, I mean paint shop, setback.  Progress, slowly, but surely.

 

 

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Ron

The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, being restored as a tribute to my brother who passed away with COVID in July 2020.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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Over the last few days, I've kept myself busy getting brakes installed on the Rickster.  I'm running stainless steel pre-bent lines from Classic Tube, and they seem to fit okay.  A few minor tweaks were needed to adjust the ends to mate with the wheel cylinders, but they installed without any major problems.  It took a little looking at the service manual and YouTube, but I was able to get the rear brakes installed.  

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I had previously cleaned the brake drums and painted them gloss black.  I think they will look nice behind the polished aluminum wheels.

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Front brakes were pretty straightforward.  They mated up to the stainless hardlines, with Russell flexible lines.  As I torqued each of the bolts, I tagged it with a dot from a paint pen so I would know it had been done.  

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Yesterday, I masked the interior and today, I sprayed the fire wall, floor, and roof with epoxy primer. 

Now it's on to the brake booster and pedal box, and then some Kilmat, the parking brake, and master cylinder.  Slowly, but surely.

 

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Ron

The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, being restored as a tribute to my brother who passed away with COVID in July 2020.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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Thanks, Lazarus.  It is kind of a neat color, although it isn't exactly what I was expecting.  

Yes, Midlife.  I've heard stainless lines can leak after adding brake fluid, so I'm thinking of not adding any. ;-)  Actually, I've heard you have to tighten them much tighter than steel or NiCopp lines.  I will keep an eye out for leaks, though.  Thanks.

I got the car unmasked, and took a quick picture of the floor. 

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No I can get the pedal box, brake booster and master cylinder, parking brake and bunches of Kilmat installed.  

 

  • Like 1

Ron

The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, being restored as a tribute to my brother who passed away with COVID in July 2020.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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After consulting with a couple of experienced body and paint guys, I decided that the only thing to do was to have the Rickster repainted.  With that, it came down to "do I trust the prep work that was done before that paint was laid down?"  Well, I don't.  So, I have decided to have the paint stripped back to bare metal, so that the paint job can be done right.  Dustless Blasting is coming out on Sep 25th, weather permitting.  Five and a half months, and I'm right back where I was on April 3rd. 

Well, that's the latest update.  More to come, soon.   

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Ron

The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, being restored as a tribute to my brother who passed away with COVID in July 2020.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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Ron, Sometimes you have to do what you have to do, if not and you settle for something that just wasn't right, it will always gnaw on you.

Just remember John Wick didn’t kill all those people for a random car. It was a Mustang

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11 hours ago, 73MustangCoupe said:

After consulting with a couple of experienced body and paint guys, I decided that the only thing to do was to have the Rickster repainted.  With that, it came down to "do I trust the prep work that was done before that paint was laid down?"  Well, I don't.  So, I have decided to have the paint stripped back to bare metal, so that the paint job can be done right.  Dustless Blasting is coming out on Sep 25th, weather permitting.  Five and a half months, and I'm right back where I was on April 3rd. 

Well, that's the latest update.  More to come, soon.   

You have come a long with your build and put a lot of love, time and money into it, I think you made the right decision to take a step back as painful as it feels. Once you it's blasted you will moving forward again with a better end result. It a hard decision to make now, but down the road it will be a distance memory and you will be happy you did it.

BTW: I had my 70 Mustang Dustless blasted in my driveway. Don't know if you have had it done before. Yes dustless but very messy, be prepared for a lot of cleanup. Make sure they use a rust inhibitor in the solution to minimize flash rust from developing quickly. So long as the car is inside and dry, it will hold up for many weeks and maybe months while you work the body and prep it for paint. Important, the sand gets into every nook and cranny. I spent weeks, blowing sand out and tapping the body with a rubber Malott to vibrate the body and loosen up more sand and blowing it again and again as it dried. Eventually you get it all out.

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  • Like 1

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle

DSC_0266xsm.jpg

satellite.png Proud Space Junk Award Winner!

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Your project is coming along nicely! I am watching with great interest.

It seems like nothing always goes according to plan (ie paint)...it’s just more time and money, but it will be well worth it in the end.

I have a question on your April 30, 2021 post with respect to the dual sending units for temp and oil pressure. 

I too am in the process of adding gauges (albeit OEM instead of the VDO’s you went with) and plan on running both “ idiot lights” and gauges.

I am interested in your comment that someone makes/sells dual sending units where both the gauge and idiot lights would work from one sensor sending unit.  I too would be interested in not having to use a “T” for the oil pressure sender and finding another spot for the water temp sender.

I wasn’t aware that anyone combined these 2 types of sending units into one unit. I googled and found dual station sending units for marine applications, but it was unclear if they worked for dual purpose.

When you have some time, please tell us more/ send details of these products.

thx

 

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Thanks guys for the words of encouragement and support.  It was a really tough pill to swallow, but in the end, with all I've put into it, I need it to be right.  I know with that lousy paint job, it would gnaw on me, every time I saw it, and it's good to know you agree that I'm doing the right thing. 

RD-72, you asked about the sending units.  They are VDO brand.  I got them from Summitt, IIRC.  The oil pressure sending unit is VDO360 019.  It's reads 0-80 PSI +/-2 PSI and the warning light kicks off at 8 PSI. I had to do some research as they have them with metric threads, different ranges, etc, but this one fit my Cleveland block. 

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The water temp sending unit I purchased is the VDO 323 026.  It goes to 250F, with the warning light going off at 209F.  They have others that have higher warning light contact points, but they would require an adapter to fit into the block and I am hoping that the light going off at 209 will not be a problem. 

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Anyway, you can get both of them at Summit, JEGS, etc.  You can also check out the VD) gauges web site, www.vdo-gauges.com, to see what other sending units they may have that would fit your needs if you want a different range, size, etc. 

I hope that helps.      

  • Like 1

Ron

The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, being restored as a tribute to my brother who passed away with COVID in July 2020.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, last Saturday Dustless Blasting came out and stripped the new paint from the Rickster.  

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What a mess.  Rackerm, you were right.  Sand is everywhere.  I got it back into the garage before nightfall, and since then, I've been vacuuming, brushing, sweeping, wiping, vacuuming, wiping, sweeping, blowing it out, and then repeating it, again and again.  I noted when they were stripping it, that in several areas, the paint seemed to be peeling instead of chipping off.  

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On the fenders, I noticed some of the pieces of paint that peeled away from the primer were close to 1 x 2 inches.  It appears that the paint didn't adhere to the primer very well at all.  In retrospect, stripping it was the right move.

I forgot to have the rear bumper filler blasted, so I used chemical paint stripper to strip it down to bare metal.  When applying it, the paint was lifting from one end before I got to the other end.  A quick run down the piece with a putty knife cleaned it completely.  Hmmmm.  No primer at all.  Seriously.  In a few areas, surface rust was also present.  Again, stripping was a tough call, but it turns out to be the right call. 

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So now, it's completely stripped, and sitting in the garage, again. 

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I'm still working on finding someone to paint it.  I think I've found someone to paint it, but he's concerned about fitting it into his paint booth along with all the parts so they can be all done together.   So now I'm waiting, but working on things that won't interfere with painting.  Slowly, but surely.

  • Like 1

Ron

The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, being restored as a tribute to my brother who passed away with COVID in July 2020.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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Ahhh...stripping (makes an old man's heart beat faster), and even pictures of the stripper.  But where is the bikini and the pole for dancing?

 

I agree, stripping was the right thing to do.  Now be sure and get it ospho'ed ASAP or epoxy primer to prevent surface rust.

Let me check your shorts!

http://midlifeharness.com

cactus.jpg.92e5d9d8700abc0ed60c8ccb3426248e.jpg

 

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