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Tim's 1973 Mach 1 rebuild thread


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16 minutes ago, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

Great to see you going such great work especially getting the hood layout right.

David, thank you very much. These words especially from you concerning the hood layout are very appreciated :thankyouyellow:

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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21 hours ago, timachone said:

End-result :thumb: 

I am quite satisfied :banana:

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Wow. Looks so nice. Nothing like freshly painted body panels!

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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13 hours ago, baz70 said:

that hood is a work of art.

:thankyouyellow: very much :heart: 

 

16 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

Wow. Looks so nice. Nothing like freshly painted body panels!

Thank you verys much, Tony :beer: Yeah, it is sooo exciting every time you get a panel back from the painter - it's like a small Christmas every time! 

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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On 2/9/2021 at 1:10 PM, timachone said:

End-result :thumb: 

I am quite satisfied :banana:

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The hood looks great!!  You're doing great work, and watching your work inspires me to keep going on my project, too.  :-)

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Ron

The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, being restored as a tribute to my brother who passed away with COVID in July 2020.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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13 hours ago, 73MustangCoupe said:

The hood looks great!!  You're doing great work, and watching your work inspires me to keep going on my project, too.  :-)

Thank you very much! That makes me happy inspiring you :wrench: That's how the other resto threads inspiring me, too :thumb: 

Keep up your good work, too! I am looking forward to your progress :wrench:

Edited by timachone

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Some new parts arrived :thumb:

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And I wrestled the third member from the axle housing - over an hour of smart hammering and swiveling, out she was :biggrin:

And, surpise, I have an N-case :wrench:

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This old black gunk is a mess... I don't know how to get rid of this tar-like gunk :classic_blink:

 

Edited by timachone

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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24 minutes ago, timachone said:

Some new parts arrived :thumb:

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And I wrestled the third member from the axle housing - over an hour of smart hammering and swiveling, out she was :biggrin:

And, surpise, I have an N-case :wrench:

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This old black gunk is a mess... I don't know how to get rid of this tar-like gunk :classic_blink:

 

Nice looking new lines.  That is some nasty looking stuff.  Make sure you check the gears for excessive wear.  Too heavy of a weight oil can be just as damaging as too light weight.  I would try some brake cleaner and see if that works.  If not then I would let it soak in parts cleaner solvent.  I use Oil Eater and also B'laster.  They both work well as many others out there do also.

Edited by Kilgon
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Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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  • 2 weeks later...

That is an odd combination of parts. Ford must have been cleaning out the parts bin. 

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[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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41 minutes ago, droptop73 said:

That is an odd combination of parts. Ford must have been cleaning out the parts bin. 

Yepp - that's what I wanted to say :biggrin:

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Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Small update: hood installed :thumb:

Onto the restored original hinges with fresh AMK bolts - yummy :wrench:

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Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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That looks better than new! 

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[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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3 hours ago, droptop73 said:

That looks better than new! 

Thanks Jeff :biggrin:

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Yesterday I released the original fuel tank and I was suprised how good that sheet metal above it looks. I was in fear about some rot but it looks like brand new! There were some fabrication marks on the tank too, the vapor unit looks usable and all the vapor stuff looked originally attached and untouched at the same time. The tank bands had their original color on the backside - it is a semi flat black! All in all a very reusable tank but I will take it on the attic as a spare and use a new made in Canada unit from Spectra Premium :thumb:

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Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Tim, nice isn't it to find a pristine trunk floor! 

A tip I can offer is to go to the hardware store and buy 3/8-16 x 3.5" (or 4") galvanized carriage bolts, nuts and washers for the tank straps. Also good choice on the Spectra Premium F32A tank. I bought from RockAuto, much cheaper. The better sender is the Dorman 692232, but may need to be calibrated. I did mine with 5 US gallons,19 liters, in the new tank and needed to adjust the arm upward (I think) as it was reading high. In the vapor return, the "filter" likely is shot. I honestly don't remember what I used, but it may have been a piece of Scotch Brite. Some SS steel wool might work as well. I think it's more of a baffle than anything, to stop fuel splashing down the vent tube...or not. I also added some 1/16" solid rubber pads to the tank.

On mine, I replaced the fuel lines with SS and fuel injector ethanol resistant rubber line. PLEASE use correct fuel line clamps, not gear clamps. Here are a couple of pic.

Didn't we discuss this before?  Don't forget to replace the tank seal to filler tube and the trunk floor rubber.

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Edited by Stanglover
Made corrections.
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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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16 hours ago, Stanglover said:

Tim, nice isn't it to find a pristine truck floor! 

A tip I can offer is to go to the hardware store and buy 3/8-16 x 3.5" (or 4") galvanized carriage bolts, nuts and washers for the tank straps. Also good choice on the Spectra Premium F32A tank. I bought from RockAuto, much cheaper. The better sender is the Dorman 692232, but may need to be calibrated. I did mine with 5 US gallons,19 liters, in the new tank and needed to adjust the arm upward (I think) as it was reading high. In the vapor return, the "filter" likely is shot. I honestly don't remember what I used, but it may have been a piece of Scotch Brite. Some SS steel wool might work as well. I think it's more of a baffle than anything, to stop fuel splashing down the vent tube...or not. I also added some 1/16" solid rubber pads to the tank.

On mine, I replaced the fuel lines with SS and fuel injector ethanol resistant rubber line. PLEASE use correct fuel line clamps, not gear clamps. Here are a couple of pic.

Didn't we discuss this before?  Don't forget to replace the tank seal to filler tube and the trunk floor rubber.

IMG_1105 (2).JPG

IMG_1105.J1.PG.JPG

IMG_1108_L2.jpg

Geoff, 

thank you for your input :thumb:

Yes, I was happy to find the floor that way. Not every can you open shows some new problems, that was nice! 

For the bolts I will use the original ones, threads are fine, got them loose quite good. Some cleaning and oil and they are ready to go again. 

For the sender I believe you are right - the Spectra looks very cheaply. Although I have a spare copper swimmer it doesn't fit in the Spectra sender arm. So I will have a go for the Dorman one. I think to have calibrating them is quite normal... 

For the scotch brite: do you mean something like this: 

scotch-brite-edelstahl-spirale-is3.jpg

If so I could rob one off my wife... :biggrin: 

No big deal on the fuel clamps: I still have some new of the original style ones I will use, I bought a bunch some years ago, I like them. Some new rubber and cleaning the fuel hard lines inside and outside will do the rest, I will remove them anyway, like the brake lines we talked about before. I have all the other stuff, too, like filler seal, filler boot etc. :thumb: Will wait until temperature will go over 60 °F so I can protect the floor before reinstalling the new tank... 

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Tim, it seems like you have it all sorted. Nothing wrong with using "restored" parts like the bolts. I too could have cleaned them up, but decided to swap to galvanized.  

As for the filter for the vent, if the "spirals" are stainless, they should work I think as long as they can't fall out. The Scotch Brite I was thinking about was the green or brown scouring pads, also used for light sanding. There may well be better filter material out there that will work as long as it's gas (petrol) proof. Take a look at the local auto parts store. I've not seen the original material for sale anywhere, so it's finding something that will do the job I guess.

Part of the reason I ended up buying the Dorman fuel sender was that the Spectra one that was being sold by Rock Auto at the time, was incorrect for our cars. The tube was facing the wrong way. After realizing this, I bought that to their attention and they replaced it with the Dorman. I've been very happy with that so far, no issues.

So glad you are using proper fuel line clamps. I just have a personal hatred for them for anything other then where they were intended or temporary use while setting up. I cringe when I see so called professionals on these "made for TV" car restoration shows and they use gear clamps everywhere! Give me a break!

Anyway Tim, so glad the car is coming together, keep up the good work.

 

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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+1 on using the correct clamps. I was watching one of the game warden shows on TV (I believe Texas) a few months ago and they were investigating a personal watercraft (jet ski) explosion. Turned out their mechanic had replaced the original clamps with worm gear clamps, which caused the fuel leak. 

I prefer the constant tension spring clamps, easy to use and re-usable, and won't damage the hose the way the slots in worm gear clamps do.

constant-tension hose clamps | McMaster-Carr

David (Carolina Mountain Mustangs) uses the foam used on lawn mower air filters as a replacement for the vapor vent. I like the Scotch Brite, they're stainless steel, made out of continuous strands so there aren't any small pieces falling out, and keep the liquid fuel from splashing into the vent tube and drains any liquid back into the tank quickly. They are also good for the valve cover vents and caps.

Edited by Don C
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“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Geoff, 

thank you for your input again. Now I know what you mean with the Scotch Brite. From that stuff I have always some in the garage, it is good for metal parts to prepare for painting :thumb: 

img-1854-gubka-3m-scotch-brite-46-dlya-polirovki-grilya.jpg

I will keep you up to date! 

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Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Disassembled the rear tank - all parts were original and I saw some crud on the tank floor. Good, that it all will be renewed although tank was looking not that bad. Will keep it in the attic. 

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The fuel vent above the tank was completely empty, no remnants of any filter-thing. The opening to the fuel hose is small like a needle. Was it empty originally, previous owner removed it or did it dissolve itself? What do you think? It looks so clean... 

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Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Tim,

Nice pictures that tell a story. It looks like the crud in the old tank is more like sediment rather than rust residue. For the cost, still not a bad idea to replace the tank with a nice new shiny one. Your original fuel sender filter looks exactly the same as the one I took out of mine, rotten. You know, thinking back to when I took my tank out, I'm pretty sure mine had nothing (left) in the vent cap either. I think I was going on what others were saying that there was a filter material installed to stop back splash into the tube. If a small amount of fuel were to get into that tube, it would likely just evaporate back into the tank. However, it can't hurt to put something there provided it doesn't stop the venting process or fall out into the tank.

Maybe time to dig into the books again. Ok, I found the section in the Ford manual. All it says is to replace the vent assembly if found defective. so, no longer available, there is a filter medium, so we need to find a replacement.

Scan0006.jpg

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Posted (edited)

Next onto the front brakes. Including restoring the original spindles, dust shields and new calipers. 

First I disassembled the brake assembly... 

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Edited by timachone
Removing some pictures

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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