brake line replacement

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Joined
May 26, 2013
Messages
1,445
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Location
michigan
My Car
1973 red convertible 351 4 V
Looking to replace all of my brake lines. I had a few poeple tell me that Inline tube.com sell a good product and so does Classic tube. I know that NPD and CJ sell them also. Looking for any recomendations from members that have changed theres out.

Thanks John J

 
i replaced all of mine and let me tell you now... you are in for a treat!!! especially that ONE main line that runs from front to back axle. pain in the ass. had to get a tube bender to fit it juuuuuuuust right. buy the pliers styled ones to help for them sharp angles. It's a weekend job none the less. other than that brother good luck!

got my stuff from www.johnsmustang.com all stainless steel. FYI, go ahead and spray it with rust proof coating for extra protection. soon as a rock nicks it while driving rust will begin it you are not protected...

 
I've bought from NPD for years. Bought and installed probably 12 front to back lines on the 65-73 mustangs. They easily straighten from their shipping configuration, install as easy as possible. I would get the attachment kit as well. It can't get easier. On our years, you also have a fuel vapor return line running near the brakeline. Your fuel line is probably outboard near rocker. On a restoration it's just easier to do all three at once.

 
They easily straighten from their shipping configuration, install as easy as possible. I would get the attachment kit as well. It can't get easier.
when you say easy..... is this with the engine and transmission still all hooked up? cause once that 90 degree turn comes on the firewall with the drive-shaft, it is a super tight squeeze and took me a good while.

 
I had my entire driveline out of the car when I did mine... and it was a PITA because I didn't have all the illustrations I would've needed (at the time), so a few things got 'custom' bent and routed a little differently than what the factory had (In my defense, I had just replaced my entire front clip, floor pans, trunk area, etc., so I didn't have any factory indicators of where everything went still on the car).

My kit was from Inline Tube, and I was initially happy with the kit, but after beginning the installation process, I was less happy. I got everything in position, and installed all unions with care to avoid any cross-threading, as well as what would be considered 'normal' torque ratings for brake fittings (get it all to finger tight, then apply about another 1/4 to 1/2 turn). Then I began to 'gravity bleed' the system, and the leak-fest began. Every one of the flares required me to crank the fittings down almost to the point of rounding off or breaking things before they would quit seeping. I got the OEM kit (not the stainless), expecting it to go together without having to resort to applying "gorilla torque" on all fasteners. Boy, was I wrong.

I'm not sure if they were just crappy flares (every single one?!), if they used the wrong flare angle(s) for the application, or what. All I know is that it sucked, and I was tempted to rip them all out and go with a Classic Tube kit (which, from my understanding is also regarded as a high-quality kit - so, the same problems might've persisted anyway).

I'm not saying they make a bad product, or anything like that in the least. All I'm saying is that I had issues getting every single flare to seat properly and required near Herculean efforts to get them tightened enough to seat and not leak (I'm pretty strong... snapping off Grade-5 bolts is no problem - especially when they're holding together something really important ;) ).

I hope that maybe I just got a 'bad' kit or something... because otherwise, it's really a nice kit.

 
With the driveline out it is a much easier task to accomplish. Most of the big parts houses use Classic Tube. I used those on my car and in general they were very close to stock with the exception of the mainline from the fron to the back rear axle hose connection. I save my original lines as I am going concourse to match to all of the original bends. The Classic Tube lines were a bit long in the back and did not route in the same way after the final clip just before the axle.

As others have indicated I woould go ahead and get the AMK fastener kit as well for the install and you may also want to consider the gas vent tube that attaches in the same clips running the length of the tranny tunnel. While you are there you can complete 2 jobs at once to make it alot easier and not neccesary to mess with again.

There is another company that I am now purchasing my hard lines from called Fine Lines.

http://www.finelinesinc.biz/mustang

I have been very happy with their lines following the factory original routing.

 
I just got and installed my kit about a month ago and it was the stainless steel kit from laurel mountain mustang and every line was a good fit with no problems at all other that the distribution block had different sizes for the lines and I had to get fittings for it I was very satisfied with the fitment I'd recommend that kit to anyone very simple with very minimal bending

 
Just for what its worth, as soon as all is not stock forget stock lines. and stainless doesn't bend for s---. Everything or our car is not stock so we went for ss flex lines custom measured and made. Still kinda a pita but easy compared to solid lines.

 
I used classic tube from NPD. Replace the rear end and the front to the rear. The rear end went well. The front to rear real pain and we had to add a few bends. I used steel tube and like the quality of classic tube and the price.The flares where good and we had no leaks

John J

 
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