Ford Codes, what do they mean?

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Want to purchase a 1971 Mustang Mach 1 in either red or black exterior with trunk spoiler and a 351-cubic-inch v6 285 horsepower, four barrel Carburetor.
Hi, I'm new here. I'm in the market to buy my first classic car and I've decided I want a `71 Mach 1. While looking at 71-73 Mustangs on the internet I've noticed people using jargon like R-code, M-code, Q-code. What do these mean? Is there a reference to look up these various codes?

 
Those are engine codes in the cars VIN

Yes there is wiki section on the forum to search codes.

There are various web pages to de-code the VIN numbers

There will also be codes on the 71-3's drivers door tag with other info / codes

Don

 
Welcome to the forum.

Take a look at the DATA tab at the top of the page. It has the info you are asking about.

 
While looking at 71-73 Mustangs on the internet I've noticed people using jargon like R-code, M-code, Q-code. What do these mean?
I see this explained in a reply to this thread and i get that now.

What I want to know is why people want certain codes above others?

Why the massive fluctuation in costs when buying differant codes?

 
If you go to the top of the page, click on 'Data,' and pick the year model of your car, it'll have the VIN Code deciphering information listed on a new page. The information found there can help make a ball park determination as to the actual value of a vehicle based on its equipment package.

The letter codes indicate engine package, as Don said. Those differences can certainly explain value and rarity, for instance, an R-Code (Boss 351) will command more money (in any condition) than an H-Code (351C-2V), because of less numbers produced in addition to being on the top-end of the performance models - an H-Code, on the other hand is not as valuable because it's "just" a 351 Cleveland with a 2bbl carb/intake.

It's helpful when determining what kind of a car you want in the long run. If you want a restomod car (like mine), you're better off getting a lesser valuable model and making it your own - that way you're not paying premium price for a collector's car just to have a fun hot rod you can drive the piss out of and enjoy.

If you want something that will definitely increase in value, then hold out (and save your pennies) for a nicer, more valuable car, put it on a trailer, get a few trophies, and sell it for a profit in a few years when you get bored just staring at it in the garage. :D

 
Great info - I'll try to add a little:

Rarity is definitely one characteristic that can add to value. But usually when rarity is coupled with a desirable car it accentuates the value.

There are some very rare cars that are not very desirable and there are some not-so-rare cars that are also desirable. Boss 351's are unique and desirable. Ford built 1806 of them in 1971 only. They were a special performance offering and promoted as such. In 1971 you could also get an M-code Mustang in any body type which had realty decent power but Ford built a lot of them - especially this motor backed by an automatic in the Mach 1 body type. (10,836). Not so rare as the Boss but 71 M codes are desirable because of the performance connection. It is doubtful that any M-code Mustang will ever be as desirable and valued as high or higher than a Boss 351 (1F02Rxxxxxx).

Now I see in 1971 Ford built a total of 115 6 cyl. 3 speed manual Grandes (1F04Lxxxxxx). Very rare with limited number built but not near as desirable as a performance model...

FYI - First 5 of the Vin just tells year-plant of manufacture-body type-engine. Transmission is tied to the Consecutive Unit Number (CUN) (xxxxxx). Another point - the CUN does not necessarily indicate where the car is on the production line. Two cars serialized one number apart might have been MANY units and days apart on actual production!!!!

Hope this helps.

Ray

 
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