It's a Boy!

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Joined
Aug 7, 2010
Messages
5,074
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10
Location
McDermitt, NV
My Car
1973 Convertible H Code, 351C 2V FMX
Well, it's the day I've been talking about for months - I finally got the engine pulled out of the vert. It didn't snow or rain, and it only took a couple hours since I've had so much time to prep. A couple things I learned:

1) Even if you know there are 6 bolts connecting the engine to the bell housing, count how many are in the baggie. If there's five, it means you still have one to remove. If you don't remove it, it will be exponentially more difficult to separate the engine from the bell housing. If, after being distracted, you count them again, and there are still 5 in the baggie, you still forgot to remove the last bolt. So what does that tell you? REMOVE the bolt!

2) If the shop manual even goes so far as to say, "it's a good idea to use a six-point socket on the torque converter nuts to prevent rounding off the nut head. Removing stripped and damaged torque converter nuts is an unnecessary waste of time", then you know that you have to be careful removing them. Knucklehead. So that's why I had to remove the torque converter with the engine. I was told it would be a big mess with all the ATF that comes out with the torque converter, but there wasn't ANY ATF that came out when I pulled it out. I wonder why?

So this is what it looked like:

Engine ready to pull.JPG

Engine chained up.JPG

Prying engine from tranny.JPG

Separating engine from tranny.JPG

Hoisting engine out.JPG

Engine in garage.JPG

Empty engine bay.JPG

Now, what's the best way to remove this torque converter bolt that I've kind of rounded of. These suckers are TIGHT. I've used a bunch of penetrating fluid, which hasn't helped yet. Could I heat it up with a propane torch? I don't want to resort to the cutting wheel yet if I can avoid it.

Stuck torque converter bolt.JPG

Doc

 
well well well Doc!! the engine bay looks very clear... No accidents on this stang isnt it!??

Are you still planning to make the movement on clean anr repaint the engine bay?? Ask me for any help man... I'll share everything i know... This vert is going to became awsome man!..

Keep working!!

 
Doc, Irin make a set of 3/8/sockets for striped bolt and nuts. The set I have come in 3/8 to 5/8 and I got it att the Do It Best store. They are life savers.

Jim

IMG_0366.JPG

IMG_0367.JPG

 
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use a sharp chisel on the shoulder of the nut, hit it in the direction it turns to loosen. a few sharp blows will break it loose...the nut is already ruined.

 
Glad to see you could get out and work on it. I just did an engine swap on the red Mach 1 in Sept. with the help of my friend Dave, so I feel your pain it did not go the way it was supposed to the 4-speed gave us fits trying to get it to line up. The clip on the brand new throw out bearing broke after it was manhandled in! But your project is looking good! Have you seen the mirror yet?

Regards tom

 
Doc, Irin make a set of 3/8/sockets for striped bolt and nuts. The set I have come in 3/8 to 5/8 and I got it att the Do It Best store. They are life savers.

Jim
everyone needs a set of these, they work fantastic. wouldnt do without them now.

 
wahooooo Doc, Its a half a boy anyways. Been a bit dismembered, LOL. Just playin, congrats, I know you have been waiting on this day for a while. As for the bolt between all the given suggestions you should have no problems. I think sears carries some sockets like that also.

 
use a sharp chisel on the shoulder of the nut, hit it in the direction it turns to loosen. a few sharp blows will break it loose...the nut is already ruined.
and use a little heat from a gas wrench or find a large nut that fits over it snugly then weld the two nuts together before it cools put a socket on and break it lose the larger diameter nut gives you more torque the heat from the weld too.


ps dont weld the threads! lol

 
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use a sharp chisel on the shoulder of the nut, hit it in the direction it turns to loosen. a few sharp blows will break it loose...the nut is already ruined.
and use a little heat from a gas wrench or find a large nut that fits over it snugly then weld the two nuts together before it cools put a socket on and break it lose the larger diameter nut gives you more torque the heat from the weld too.


ps dont weld the threads! lol
Big day - congrats, Doc!

I've also had success with the method snoozingpony suggests.

Mark

 
Thanks for the well wishes and advice, guys. What a great group we've got here!!

I've got a new CompCams .218/.224 cam, performance carb/intake, Hooker headers, etc. ready to install. I'll keep everyone updated. As soon as I get it on the stand, I'm gonna either tear it apart or just take it to the machinist.

Tom - I got the mirror in great shape. Thanks!!

More soon.

Doc

 
Way ta go, Doc! You're a brave man with the chain anchor bolts being so long - at least there were four of them, though. I'm always thinking the longer they are, the greater chance of snapping off. But it looks like it worked just fine. Awesome!

Good luck with the TC nuts - lots of great advice here (I'd go with the 'stripped nuts' tool first though). I had to leave the TC on my engine when I pulled it as well (because the engine was seized). Just have a big drain pan handy when you finally get the TC loose - as long as you don't tilt the whole deal back toward the transmission input shaft receiver, you shouldn't lose any fluid from inside.

 
Way ta go, Doc! You're a brave man with the chain anchor bolts being so long - at least there were four of them, though. I'm always thinking the longer they are, the greater chance of snapping off. But it looks like it worked just fine. Awesome!

Good luck with the TC nuts - lots of great advice here (I'd go with the 'stripped nuts' tool first though). I had to leave the TC on my engine when I pulled it as well (because the engine was seized). Just have a big drain pan handy when you finally get the TC loose - as long as you don't tilt the whole deal back toward the transmission input shaft receiver, you shouldn't lose any fluid from inside.
Thanks, Eric. Ya, I was thinking about that with the bolts, but I'm estimating the total weight at maybe 250 - 275 pounds, so only 70 pounds max on each bolt.

I'm heading down to get that tool right now. I'll let you know what happens.

Doc

 
Now you're getting serious! I've built several Clevelands. If I can help let me know, Ill be glad to.

P.S. If you ever run across another red plastic cap like the one on top of the AC expansion valve let me know. I'm looking for one for my 72 that I'm restoring.

Chuck

 
congats, you have a beautiful fat boy. And i know, you are a good father and you will give him the love that he need :) .

Very good idea to pull the engine. That make you all the work much easyer. And your boy can live and work in a clean lovely area, this is what all parents want for here childs.... :)

Way to go , doc!

 
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