Tires rubbing upper control arm

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73 Q code Mach 1
So, my tires are rubbing on the upper control arms just before full steering lock, Turning left and right. Both side rub at the same time.

I have 245/60/15 tires on 15x8 wheels with 4.5" back spacing.

IMG_0714_zpsc9ab0f26.jpg


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Options to make the tires clear are:

1/4" wheel spacers. I'd need to swap in longer studs for this.

Switch tires to 15x7 wheels. They have a 4" back space.

While more expensive, I think putting the 245 tires on 15x7 wheels is the better option.. And, then I have an extra set of 15x8 wheels to put slicks on... :D

Opinions?

 
4.5 is too much back spacing for the front wheels. It's as simple as that.

The idea of putting the same tires on a rim with 4 inch back spacing is a good one.

 
Suggestion. How about installing a new pair of stamped steel OEM style upper arms? They were designed to be thinner at the ball joint end to clear the inside of the wheels. They would also be cheaper than buying new wheels..

 
Suggestion. How about installing a new pair of stamped steel OEM style upper arms? They were designed to be thinner at the ball joint end to clear the inside of the wheels. They would also be cheaper than buying new wheels..
Good catch piper62.

 
Suggestion. How about installing a new pair of stamped steel OEM style upper arms? They were designed to be thinner at the ball joint end to clear the inside of the wheels. They would also be cheaper than buying new wheels..
That would kinda defeat the purpose of installing the better handling aftermarket suspension.

For future info, this wheel and tire combo did clear my stock suspension. I debated using 15x8 or 15x7 wheels when I originally purchased my tires, and kinda wanted more front sidewall tuck anyway.. So, off to Summit racing I go. :D

 
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Switch wheels. Even if you re-mitered the tubes on the top to clear the 14" tires when the weight of the car is on the suspension, they'd still rub when the suspension travel is fully extended.

Come to think of it, the 1/2" gain with 15" wheels may not give it to you either

Why not take the stock arms and weld stiffeners to them? These aftermarket arms look like they were made for 16" and up.

-Kurt

 
Those are 15's.... I ordered 15x7's this morning. These are the Global West negative roll suspension setup. It's changes geometry to improve handling. They handle better than stock parts, but are cheaper than a coil over setup. Also, couldn't find longer than stock studs that have the early ford disk brake .622 knurl size, so that eliminates the spacer option.

So, 15x7s and extra 15x8's for slicks it is. :D

 
Totalled,

Nice setup there. It looks like if you even went to an 18 in rim, it is still looks like it is going to rub. You might have to go to wheel spacers to move the wheels outward from the control arm.

Here are a few suggestions. I am using the 25 mm spacers, with the 3 inch ARP studs to install the Mustang Steve Cobra Disc brakes setup along with the 17 inch Bullet wheels. I have not been able to find 25 mm with just the pass through stud holes. So, this weekend, I pressed out the studs that were installed in the Eibach 25 mm spacers and used the stud holes. Slipped right over the studs and drum brake hub.

Eibach

http://eibach.com/america/en/performance-suspension/wheel-spacers

These ARP studs pressed right into the drum brake hubs.

http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=63

I hope you find a solution.

mustang7173

 
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I would debate the perceived difference in handling between a stock upper control arm and this aftermarket one while running 15" wheels and all weather street tires.

I would install stock upper control arms if it were my car, but to each their own. So many times have I returned a car back to the stock configuration and removed flashy go-faster parts, and had he car handle and perform better for it.

 
I've done the exact same thing all thru the years including GM vehicles.

I would debate the perceived difference in handling between a stock upper control arm and this aftermarket one while running 15" wheels and all weather street tires.

I would install stock upper control arms if it were my car, but to each their own. So many times have I returned a car back to the stock configuration and removed flashy go-faster parts, and had he car handle and perform better for it.
 
I would debate the perceived difference in handling between a stock upper control arm and this aftermarket one while running 15" wheels and all weather street tires.
Right on there will be some gain but not much with out the "TOTAL" package..The tubular arms negative wedge setup is geared toward 17-18" wheels with high performance low profile tires.. To maximize the full potential

of that suspension you would want 17" wheel at the minimum.

 
I have a similar situation. I am trying to decide on tire wheel combination for my 71 Mach. I am looking at the Legendary Wheel Co. Magnum 500 Alloy Wheel 16"x8" Gloss Black/Machined Set With BFGoodrich Sport COMP-2 245/50/16 Tires from CJ Pony Parts. Does anyone have any feed back for me. Pictures of the front and rear application are attached, I hope the pics attach! lol

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I could make you a new set of strut rod brackets that have the steering stop further out to stop that problem. How much gap between the stop and the spindle when you crank it all the way right and left? Not the best solution, but you could grind down the nose of those GW uppers without compromising them but then you'd have to re-powder coat them or paint the exposed metal. There isn't a lot that needs to be removed. Looks like the tubes are open at the end in one pic but not open in the other pic. The nose of the uppers don't look like they follow the contour of the ball joint plate...aftermarket uppers should have the nose of the uppers angle back more than that. If and when I get around to it, i'll design some uppers that won't have that problem.

 
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